yow

At Memphis this past weekend with 95 degree heat, after 4-5 hard laps (9/10) it would be pushing close to 260 degrees coolant temps. I'd do a cool down lap and it would get back down to 220 but 2-3 more hard laps it would climb back up.

I've researched a lot to see how to prevent this. I'm going to NASA's road atl weekend June 16-17 so I'm in a hurry to remedy the problem.

I will try water wetter mix after flushing the system, for sure. I want to add ducting around the radiator and intercooler, because there is none. And I'm thinking about making a diy intercooler spray kit run off of the windshield washer fluid reservoir and pump. What else should I consider?

How should I make the ductwork around the ic?

My car is an 06 c6 with A&A's vortech si trim making about 550rwhp. It has the z06 radiator already and I don't want to drop the big bucks on a bigger one if I can help it. I don't race (yet), I just do track days. But I could see time attack being in my future so I want to make sure it keeps cool.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bad Karma

Have you checked the radiator/condenser for any debris or obstructions to airflow?

Tormania

I didn't think to check my coolant temp this last weekend but my oil temp climbed to as high as 286 at the end of a HPDE session. This is in a Z51 equipped 2000 C5 with no aftermarket cooling assistance. This was with fresh Mobil 1 filled to 6 3/4 quarts, probably should have went all the way up to 7 qts, might have helped a bit more.

isnider

My friend was having the same problem with his Mustang. Assuming you have a pro charger or similar type supercharger, you will not be able to keep temps down. My ZR1 with all the cooling and integrated intercooler has a tough time on the track managing the heat in summer months.

If you plan on tracking your car a bunch, the best option I know of and what worked for my buddy was a methanol/water injection system from a company like this....

http://www.snowperformance.net/chevr...or-large-turbo

Ian

CHJ In Virginia

Unfortunately a SC application is less than ideal and very subject to heat soak during track use. There have been multiple threads on this subject, use the search function and you will find a lot of data. You are going to have to move a much greater volume of air to keep that car within acceptable temps. Several recommendations 1) You are going to need a bigger radiator - Dewitts or Ron Davis if you want the car to live 2) Get the ducting fixed ASAP - if the air is not going through the intercooler and radiator it will not cool. 3) Cut exhaust ducts in your hood or get a vented hood. Once the air goes through the radiator, you need to move it out of the engine compartment quickly.

95jersey

Your going to fight a losing battle with the supercharger on a road course. The only thing you can do without dropping big bucks (or removing the supercharger) is to install a 160F thermostat, and try 100% water with a few bottles of water wetter.

JerryTX

If you mean your going to spray the outside of the IC to cool it that's a nogo as it will drip and thats a nogo. If you mean you are going to inject into the airstream that the engine injests than it's methanol injection like some others have recommended and would help but may not be enough.

sebdavid

http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/ maybe?

yow

If I get the big, expensive radiator (assuming it will fit in my engine bay), will that be the end-all fix and allow me to track my car with confidence?

I'll do a search on cutting vents in the hood. (That's scary to me.)

This is not encouraging. I will try the water wetter, for sure.

I read up on how to mist either windshield washer fluid or a 50/50 mix of water and rubbing alcohol onto the intercooler and/or radiator. It said they evaporate fast and evaporate away heat. Would I really be dripping enough to matter? If it would be dangerous, I don't want to do it, of course. But in my head I'm picturing misting the ic/rad on the long straights to maximize cooling.

AU N EGL

Clean out the radiator fins.

Dirt, sand, grass get sucked up in there.

Use a low pressure air hose with a long thin wand to get in and between the radiators.

froggy47

How were the oil temps?

Every thread I've every read re: sc on a track has not ended up with a happy solution. Sorry, wrong combo for a track car.

I have heard anecdotal info that even the fully tested fully integrated ZR1's get too hot on tracks. I'm talking about 4 or 5 25 min sessions in a fast group, not "parade laps".

AU N EGL

OK but we will very direct

Take OFF the SC. this may be funny or hard to believe but you will eventually go faster and your car will run cooler WITHOUT the SC.

Lots of HP means nothing if your car can not run cool and stop safely.

Track day / HPDE mods

1. contact patches.

ie seats, harnesses
brake pads, brake fluid
tires
Cooling, brake cooling ducts
Bigger radiator PLUS oil and trans cooler.

2. then nothing but seat time.

HP is the LAST mod for ppl to go faster.

Skill, Consistency and safety for best results.

and the spray?? forget it as it wont pass tech.

Good Luck

yow

Sell the SC and replace with h/c/i?
or
Sell the car and replace with more exp z06?

Oh the questions! What a dilemma. It would be cheaper to dump several grand into the cooling problem than to get a z06 by getting a race radiator, meth, headers wrap, etc. It would be more practical but slower (who wants that?!) to ditch the sc. I do drive this car. I'm not ready for it to be primarily a track car.

This track/crack addiction comes on strong.

Tormania

I'll be sure and do that before I take the car out to the track again, although with the Texas heat might be Fall before I head back out. Temps were over 90, not sure what the track temp was.

AU N EGL

Stock engine with dry sump. LS3

Or look for a used C5Z. C5Zs are still some of the most reliable and quickest cars on the track

removing the SC will not slow you down, but allow you to go quicker.

SC are the death of track cars.

Hell I only run a bit over 400 rwhp, and can do consistent 2:10s are VIR on old Hoosiers. new set of As and that is down to 2:05s. and I am being conservative.

there are plenty of Race prepped C5Zs with a STOCK ENGINE, and only 375- 385 rwhp that run 2:03 - 2:05s

and with full aero down to 1:57s. Much faster then most C6Zs.

remember Road course are many many corners connected by short straights, then many more corners and corners with an occasional LONG straight.

Any one can go fast in a straight line, it is stopping at the end of the straights to make those high speed corners.
Going fast and under control through corners allows one for lower lap times.

VGLNTE1

ditch the blower...or add some high dollar coolers

yow

What if I sell my sc and ls2? About how much would that bring to put toward a solid build?

AU N EGL

If you have an LS2 that is great. add the dry sump and bigger coolers then nothing but set time.

Good Luck

isnider

I disagree....while my car gets hot at 250-260 deg oil temps in the heat of summer run hard in advanced group, it is still runs like a bat out of hell ALL DAY LONG and is bulletproof with 5,000 track miles so far...there is no faster car on street tires at the track...even with the A/C running

Ian

froggy47

Glad you set that straight & hope it continues. I'd settle for those oil temps in my car. Unfortunately my stock c5z needed an upgrade radiator to get the temps down.