I run these Stoptech Street performance pads on my ST-60/ST-40 brakes and my friend (Z16) runs them on his stock C5 Z06 brakes. We both believe the pads work great (cold) on the street, and are fine on the track, as long as the track usage is not "severe". I think Eagles Canyon and Road America would be classed as severe, and MSR Cresson is "mild". I would buy a set of PFC-01 or DTC-70 or Cobalt XR-2 front pads for severe tracks and just keep them in your tool box for those occasions and run the Street Performance pads everywhere else. BTW please be sure to post your results for the rest of the Form members to benefit from

 

Another concern is sharing the same rotors for both street and race pads. I have seen people having issues with it: the street pads start squealing, and the race pads also don't run optimal, unless you drive them cold (at the street) for a while to scrub off the street pad material.

I ordered a set of race pads (ST43s) for the StopTech calipers, which I will receive the same day I receive the calipers. I am wondering if I should just try them out at the street, and see if they are tolerable. That would normally reduce the rotor life since race pads are usually abrasive on the rotors when cold, but I know from my former experience that ST43s are not. They bite well at cold, too.

 

I run Stoptech's Sports Trophy ST 60's and 40's(380X32 & 355X32) on my Z06. Stoptech developed a new hat, which completely eliminates the need to trim the A arms for clearance, they are on my car now. Additionally, you do not have to speculate whether their brakes will work with your wheels, you should be able to down load a template from their website which I did, which you can use to graphically see if they will clear your wheels. I don't know how all this works with a base C6, but call them, they are helpful and know the cars. I love mine, good luck!

 

Are you using stock wheels?

 

I'm not using the stock 18" &19" wheels, as others have said, they won't fit. I ended up with CCW 140's, 18X10 and 19X12. Check with Stoptech, using the 355"s on the front may fit the OE wheels, I'd down load their template for both the 355 and 380mm brakes.
If I recall correctly, AP Racing has the largest set-up I saw that would clear OE wheels, I'm not sure about their pad selection though.

 

This is great news! I am receiving my kit with same rotor sizes (380x32 / 355x32) tomorrow, and will certainly stay up late tomorrow night and get it installed. Since they built the kit for my order, here is hoping I will not have fitment issues, either.

 

I spoke with LG yesterday and they confirmed that the 355's will fit under the stock C6 Z06 wheels.

 

i agree for c6z06

 

C5Z rears also fit the 355 mm rotors. Speedlines will give about 0.080" and Alcoas will provide about 0.180" clearance.

 

One more question, do you guys recommend getting the zink coated rotors? I live about four miles from the beach.

 

The zinc coating will only help you on non-friction surface portions on the rotor. I suppose it doesn't hurt buying the zinc coating, but I think it may require a different bedding procedure (some zinc coated friction rings require the zinc playing to be completely removed before bedding track pads).

Just a thought.

Sean

 

Ozer,

How is the installation going?

Pics??

 

I finished everything except rear right brake line. I could not tread the SS line onto the hard line. I am able to tread the OEM line back, but cannot do it with the provided SS line. Every other line treaded with no issues, so this is a bit puzzling. Have you guys had such an issue before?

The OEM rubber line was also a bit different than others (silver colored metal tip instead of copper colored tips on all other corners' OEM lines) on rear right. I stopped trying after 30 minutes, fearing might end up damaging the hard line.

Fronts 380mm ST60 v.s. 355mm stock

 

Ozer, the brake line thing is pretty common. Most people believe that it's attributed to slightly deformed (mushroomed out a bit) hard line that is not allowing the threads to start. This can be caused by the original OEM install deforming the metal on the hard line flange surface. Many people will take a very small file and knock a bit of material off the outer diameter of the lip in the hard line. Be sure not to touch the seating surface as it could lead to bigger problems. Just focus on the outer most diameter and attempt to shave off a few thousandths of material. If that doesn't work, shoot me a PM and I can share other ideas that have worked for me in the past.

Sean

 

Thank you very much for the advice! I will give it a shot and see if it works.

 

Well we have been working with the fine folks at StopTech now for years and years and they have always been great to deal with on just about everything.

Looking through the thread I'll try and see if I can hit on anything that was missed.


Wheel fitment:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ment-templates

Look at that first. StopTech does a great job of giving you dimensions to check your wheels to make sure they are going to fit around their brakes. The 355mm kits fit the OEM 5 spoke and spiders just fine on the GS and Z06 cars with no spacer needed. 380mm kits will require a different 18" wheel from ForgeLine, HRE, or CCW to work, or a cup wheel in 19".

With the 355 and 380 kits they do move the caliper inboard slightly to gain wheel clearance as it is wider than stock. This will require some grinding to the lower ball joint, and in one case the tie rod mount on the spindle. Nothing major just trimming off some casting flashing from GM as this is not a major critical dim for them when making the arms.

They (StopTech) did, and do on request, make a different rotor hat for those that did not want to trim their LCA's. One thing that should be noted on this. It will push the wheel outside giving you a more aggressive fitment. So for those running big front tires, 305's and 315's I would not suggest this. Also something to note if you get custom wheels later.

Brake lines,
The factory seems to crank down on the lines, some cars go on just fine, others are a pain in the butt. With some work you can generally get the new lines started. In severe cases you will need a thread file to round out the factory hard line fitting again to get it to start on the new lines. This is true with any aftermarket line we have seen, not just StopTech.


StopTech does have a new set of pads out on the market now that greatly improve the grip of the kits from what they were when the kits first came out. I still say nothing beats a good set of Cobalt pads for the track though . Just watch what pads you swap in and out, some are compatible, others are not.


Coating, drilled, slotted.
For me, if it is going on the track....slotted, and not coated all the way. I don't want to risk the coating getting into the pad and don't really see a point in it. Street cars, the coating will keep the areas that are not hit by the pads cleaner, but brake dust will still build up on them just like on the OEM units.



As far as size goes, for 99% of you on 95% of the tracks the 355mm kit will more than cover what you need it to do. Going 380 is just spinning more weight and a larger diameter rotor. They look cool and will provide slightly more rotor life as there is more swept area and more mass to take the heat but again pretty much over kill for almost everyone.

 

By the way Ozer.....killer looking car!

 

Thanks for the great information Anthony! I'm looking forward to trying out the BBK. I wish I knew about the special hat that does not need grinding the suspension parts since it feels like I had to grind quite a bit, but hopefully it is not structurally important. I also hope that combined with the larger rotors, the new improved pads might make the standard pads work for a lot longer; we'll see.

I'll go check for an appropriate thread file and see if it works!

 

Ozer,

How is the new BBK coming along?

 

My update (you can skip to the impressions below if it's too long):
I borrowed the thread file and restore tool from the local auto store, but in the end, decided not to use it. The MSRC sensor right next to the hard line's tab, extra wiring harness lying around, etc. makes it pretty hard to work with a thread file in there. I did not want to remove the MSRC sensor itself, either, fearing I might mess with its calibration.

Anyhow, I ended up using the front OEM line at rear right. The rear OEM lines a bit too short, and the front OEM lines are a bit too long, but I was able to work it out by trying different angles. The OEM line works fine for now; I will get a shop that I know of put that RR brake line for me during another lunch. This way, if something goes wrong, the car will already be at the shop to get it fixed.

I also put on RPI's front mudflaps (which were very disappointing in terms of correct fitment) and removed two washers from the front upper control arms since I was maxed out at -1.6 camber at right front. I used my lunch break to get it aligned, and I finally have my car again!

Impressions on the brakes:

• The kit came with C5 installation instructions. I understand, it is very similar, but I expected a better documentation.
• The fitment: I had to shave quite a bit from the front control arms, while the rears only required cleaning up that line created by the casting (as others mentioned). I don't believe it is structurally compromised, but I wish I was notified about the modified hat that does not move the rotors closer to the control arm. The brakes fit quite well into the cup wheels. I actually still have quite a bit of space left (which explains how 15.5" ZR1 brakes easily fit into these).
• Calipers' finish quality: I saw nicks, etc. on the calipers here and there. They are all under the paint/coating, so it got those nicks before painting process. Not a big deal for me, but it might be a turn off for someone updating his/her garage queen.
• I could not bed-in the brakes last night since the car had a terrible alignment at the time. The brakes feel good and make no noise whatsoever. The stopping power is good when I push it hard enough, but the pedal feel is soft. I will see if the initial bite improves once I find a place to do the bed-in. I also have ST43s. I am looking forward to try the kit with those FYI, I felt that the pedal feel was pretty soft when I tried the very same brake compound on my friend's Evo X, so it might be expected. FYI, if you're wondering due to soft pedal feel, I flushed the brake fluid with RBF600 during the installation.