camaronut502

I have AP Racing rotors/calipers on the front of my 05 z51. What would be a good pad for very limited street use with a focus on autocross and track days (wallet friendly)?

thanks
Matt

KNSBrakes

Which kit do you have? There are a few different ones.

Stockervet

Ty for suggesting but anything with cross drilled? Looks nice.

KNSBrakes

KNSBrakes

Yes

bfit

Hello
what are you thoughts on Titanium heat shields . This is c6 carbon ceramic brake set up
thanks bob

froggy47

1) Do not get distracted by the dust, it's just DUST.
1.5) If you look past the dust you will see in many shots, the milky/cloudy issue I am describing.
2) Don't turn the thread into a "best fluid" thread, goodness knows we have plenty.
2.5) Don't post anything about remote bleed kits, plenty of that also.
3) It's a mix of Wilwood 570 and whatever was in before (probably stock).
4) No brake "problems" just trying to learn about the fluid appearance.

BigMonkey73

The most wallet friendly good pad I've come across is the Raybestos ST43. Not 100% sure they make them for your kit though

KNSBrakes

Just about any pad can be made in ST43 but for 'custom' shapes you need at least a week and they may not be 100% fit depending on the shape.

Ken

SCOTTCM

Are the AC Delco brake pads and rotors the same as the GM OEM part numbered ones?

GM AC Delco
25940447 171-1040 steel pads front
22847818 171-1127 steel pads rear

20981823 177-1174 steel rotors front
20981824 177-1176 steel rotors rear

Sorry if this has come up before. Thank you.

0Todd TCE

My description would simply be "worn out fluid", meaning a mix of contaminant from the being mixed with old fluid (a no-no really....you know you should flush it clear whenever possible) as well as thermal breakdown and rubber seal discoloration. In short; looks like a lot of old and neglected fluid to me. Like my truck! lol

Quickshift_C5

I have a 2001 ZO6 with APRacing Radi-CAL front brakes with Ferodo DS1.11. OEM rear hardware wish Ferodo DS.11 also. Last year, I fought with an intermittent ABS module until it eventually failed completely (left rear output sol was intermittent, and eventually stopped working). Wanting to avoid downtime (and not knowing at the time I could run without it), I just went ahead and finished the HPDE season with no ABS. Wasn't a huge deal.

I sent the ABS module to ABSFIXER, had it repaired, and am getting ready to re-install it. Not sure I'll have a chance to bring the car to a dealer to have them flush/cycle the ABS system, if that's even needed.

What can I do to flush/cycle the ABS to make sure there is no trapped air? Is it as simple as getting into ABS on the street several times to purge any air that may be in the system? I planned to do a full, normal system flush/bleed afterward.

KNSBrakes

FYI a good Snap-On tool can emulate the flush cycle. Might open up options for not having to deal with the dealer.

JRitt@essex

I just replaced the master cylinder in my C6 and replaced the bias adjuster that was installed, which requires a similar level of disassembly to what you're doing. You're definitely going to introduce quite a bit of air into the system, and there's no great way around that. You should do exactly what you suggest...get as much air as you can on the first bleed. Drive it around a bit and get into ABS. I did so on mine probably 7-10 times. I then re-bled and found bubbles at all four calipers. I still have a tiny bit of air in mine, so one more time should get the job done. The subsequent bleeds after the first one will only need to be minor. You shouldn't need to pump a ton of fluid through to clear the air.

JRitt@essex

That would be way too quick and easy! :p

JRitt@essex

Gents,
I realized this would be a great place to list an article I just wrote, "Track and Race Pad Owner's Guide". It discusses pad construction, assessing wear, taper, impact of driving aids, noise, etc. There is some other good brake-related learning in that location as well. Enjoy!

LateBreak

As someone who spent a whole year trying to get air out of the brakes after swapping the EBCM, just do the automated bleed. I thought it was unnecessary and that the air would work itself out of the module, but it didn't, not even in over 40 hours of racing and 5-6 liters of Castrol SRF bleeding/flushing. We would start every race with a firm pedal, thinking that the issue was solved, and then would get a worse and worse pedal every time the ABS kicked in, to the point where at the end of an 8 hour race I was literally pumping the pedal 3-4 times into every corner because otherwise it'd just go to the floor. I rebuilt calipers, did power bleeds, manual bleeds, changed the master cylinder, and everything else you can think of, but nothing worked. I would have done it sooner but this is a 99 updated to a 2001 module and I hadn't bought or hooked up the steering sensor, so DTC's wouldn't allow the automated bleed. I cleared all that up last month and pushed out a whole bunch of air and milky fluid with the automated bleed procedure. It's there for a reason, and it's not that hard to do with a Tech 2, just do it and save yourself some headache.

badhabit_wb

You can get a mongoose pro for 495, it will do anything theTech 2 will, and then a 2 day subscription to GM's softwear and do just about anything with it as far as reading codes or even updating the pdr. I bled my abs this way and I have the AP's too. You can also try the lock the breaks on a dirt road procedure a few times and it may work. I had no idea how much I'd use the mongoose pro when I got it but I check for codes after every event.

froggy47

Thanks Todd, short of adding a bleed kit, too much work for a "small" issue of fluid color, I'll keep flushing Ranger style & see what happens, maybe it'll clear. Appreciate you on this thread.

Froggy

JRitt@essex

Dang! We haven't seen that, but it sure sounds like no fun! Definitely do what you need to do until you get a good pedal Quickshift.