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I have a track weekend coming up on June 3-4. I have made an appt at my local dealer to do the 15-50 oil and to change to high temp brake fluid as I have for my two weekends last year. I'm planing to do 3 weekends this year and track is approximately 80 miles from my house. I will be driving to and from track as I don't have a trailer. I was thinking of doing a track alignment this time and was questioning if this was a good idea given I need to drive to the track. Anyone have experience with this. I have a second set of wheels with psc2 tires on them and I did one track day last year on them. Outside edges of tires took a beating, talked to the corvette specialist at my dealer that has been doing work on my car and he assured me he has tools needed and knows about removing washers. Any advise would be appreciated including an alignment that is between street and track.
Thanks guys.
I've done a bunch now, the only problem is the rear toe adjusters have very limited range. I had spending other people's money but I don't think I'll do any more c7's unless they purchase the Granetelli rear toe kit.
GM really F'd up going to the concentric design. Not sure if they had a valid reason or were just trying to copy the Germans!
Originally Posted by Basil2000
I have a track weekend coming up on June 3-4. I have made an appt at my local dealer to do the 15-50 oil and to change to high temp brake fluid as I have for my two weekends last year. I'm planing to do 3 weekends this year and track is approximately 80 miles from my house. I will be driving to and from track as I don't have a trailer. I was thinking of doing a track alignment this time and was questioning if this was a good idea given I need to drive to the track. Anyone have experience with this. I have a second set of wheels with psc2 tires on them and I did one track day last year on them. Outside edges of tires took a beating, talked to the corvette specialist at my dealer that has been doing work on my car and he assured me he has tools needed and knows about removing washers. Any advise would be appreciated including an alignment that is between street and track.
Thanks guys.
....talked to the corvette specialist at my dealer that has been doing work on my car and he assured me he has tools needed and knows about removing washers....
Like David says, adjusting toe with that dumb-a$$ eccentric is a PITA.
And, probably most important is to get your rear caster dialed in.
Does your guy have the adapter and digital angle gauge so he can set the rear caster to spec???
Make sure you tell him to write the pre-alignment rear caster setting, and the post-alignment rear caster on your printout that shows your alignment specs. The digital alignment racks will print out a sheet that will show camber, toe, and front wheel caster, but NOT rear caster!!
The digital alignment machines cannot read rear caster, so make sure your alignment tech records the pre and post rear caster specs for you on the printout.
All you need is 2 1/4" bolts and a digital angle gauge or phone to check read castor. You don't need the gm adapter. It's easy to keep it zero if you make symmetric adjustments
All you need is 2 1/4" bolts and a digital angle gauge or phone to check read castor. You don't need the gm adapter. It's easy to keep it zero if you make symmetric adjustments
i checked my right rear caster the other night before an auto x it was 5.1 degrees with the gm tool is that possible if so damn that is out of whack for sure.
i didnt have time to mess with it other one was pretty close to 0
this was with suspension loaded with jackstands placed underneath.
will have to check into granatelli arms for the toe. did look like a stupid design for sure
Last edited by dvandentop; May 23, 2017 at 08:36 PM.
i checked my right rear caster the other night before an auto x it was 5.1 degrees with the gm tool is that possible if so damn that is out of whack for sure.
i didnt have time to mess with it other one was pretty close to 0
this was with suspension loaded with jackstands placed underneath.
will have to check into granatelli arms for the toe. did look like a stupid design for sure
You really need to measure while the car is on a surface of some sort like an alignment rack. You need to take into account the level of the surface the tire is sitting on and add/subtract that amount, if it is not level, from the measurement you get from the spindle.
5.1 seems way out of whack. I maxed mine out and it was in the 3's.
Make sure your dealership can adjust the rear caster as it's critical to keeping the rear end planted exiting a corner and when going WOT at lower speeds. If they don't have the adapter and a digital angle gauge find an independent 'race' shop that can do the full alignment for you.
I run the track alignment all the time with camber front of -2.0 and rear of -1.6. My street tires have lasted well. Like you I run a dedicated set of MPSC2s on a second set of OEM wheels for the track.
Btw, take a high quality DOT4 brake fluid to the dealership for the flush; something like Castro SRF or Motul RBF600.
Last edited by thebishman; May 24, 2017 at 10:59 AM.
I think it's possible to get 5 degrees, but you'd have to intentionally screw things up . If you remove washers symmetrically, and adjust the concentrics fairly symmetric, you'll stay close to 1deg or less easily.
i dropped my car off this am. i told the tech i would like a printout of my specs before and after and to write out what the rear caster was. i asked if he could not give me a before reading of rear caster not to touch the alignment. he assured me he would. i hope i don't regret doing track alignment but looking forward to see how it handles if done correctly.
thanks guys for the info.
Remember the rear castor is measure manually, not calculated by the alignment machine. So there is nothing stopping the tech from writing in whatever they want. Not trying to concern you just something to know. A great tech doesn't need fancy tools, yet fancy tools can't make up for a crappy tech
All you need is 2 1/4" bolts and a digital angle gauge or phone to check read castor. You don't need the gm adapter. It's easy to keep it zero if you make symmetric adjustments
Insert bolts in holes, hold gauge agains bolts, measure angle. I calibrate my gauge agains the lift for every single measurement. 4 post lift required of course
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