bigmackloud

I probably already know the answer but figured it was worth the conversation.

I installed my stand alone oil cooler and ran one event last September. The next event was in Nov, and I lost the motor on the first session of the first day. Ringland of the #7 piston broke. Chunks stayed in the cylinder until I pulled the motor apart.

Upon tear down, I also found some fairly significant wear on a couple of the cam lobes.

Basically no debris in the oil pan. There was one flake on the oil pick up tube screen. And there were some metallic particles in the oil filter.

The oil goes through the filter before it passes through the oil cooler right? (Improved Racing oil cooler block adapter). Is it likely that particles got past the filter? Essentially, the only metal particles would be from whatever cam wear occurred during the September event (and a little street driving).

It kills me to throw away a $250 oil cooler after just one session. But that's life sometimes.


Any suggestions on how to clean the oil cooler? If I saw any metal particles come out, then I'd know the oil cooler had been contaminated and that I might not be able to getting it fully cleaned and replace it. If absolutely nothing comes out, then perhaps nothing got in.

Thoughts?

ImprovedRacing

Yes, oil going to the cooler is filtered oil, so you should be fine.

I would still flush the cooler to be sure. There are a lot of ways you could do it. You could pump clean oil through it with a hand pump or drill pump into a bucket to check for metal particles. You can also flush it with water, but I would flush it with distilled water last to remove and minerals and make sure you dry it very well (blow compressed air through it, let it dry upside down, use some heat to evaporate the moisture, etc). If you leave water inside for too long it can oxidize on the aluminum passages.

MR Turco

I would always recommend replacing it but if you're going to flush it make sure you use a little pressure (hose) and be sure to flush it the opposite direction you had it setup for oil cooling too.

Bill Dearborn

I would replace the cooler. If you look at the engine replacement instructions for the LS7 GM says to clean the dry sump by taking it apart and to replace the oil to air cooler. That indicates they believe you can't get it clean enough and why risk a new/rebuilt engine to save a couple hundred dollars? All it takes is one small piece of debris to dislodge when hot oil is going through the cooler while the cooler is being vibrated.

Bill

3X2

Absolutely replace the cooler. Every brand oil cooler block I've seen and used sends oil to the cooler first, then to the filter, then into the block. Remember, what are you trying to protect- the engine or the cooler? My experience has taught me that stacked plate coolers cannot be cleaned and you will damage a fresh engine. Every engine replacement we do that had any metal in the filter gets a new cooler and lines. The dry sump tank, if present, get disassembled and cleaned. The only parts in the oil system that get used are the hose ends after cleaning. Did you cut open the oil filter?

jlutherva

I've been through this twice with a 4-stage ARE system. What I did was send ALL of the parts to an ultrasonic cleaner that does work for NASCAR and some F1 programs. PM me for the contact info. This painful and expensive but all of the parts, including all hoses, have to be removed and cleaned.

Jim

Socko

If the bearings are spotless you could consider reusing the cooler. If they aren't totally spotless then metal came through the cooler so there is still some in there.

At the end of the day I wouldn't risk it either way, I am speaking from experience. Once you are 5-8k into it whats another $500.