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No more leaf springs!!!! C5Z06 want coilovers

Old 01-19-2019, 02:13 AM
  #81  
03Zcrit
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I think it only clicks 10 times because your already starting at setting 1 or setting 11 but that is so strange that one shock only clicks 9 times. It seems like their QA guy got caught up in the shutdown. I begged Garret to please have the replacement shock inspected and tested before they sent it.
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:53 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by fleming23 View Post
I like your cheat sheet notes on the frame and control arms.
Yes, I am going to do that, too....
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Old 01-19-2019, 02:02 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Olitho View Post
Yes, I am going to do that, too....
Haha.

I also added the ftbls tq specs for all the bolts.
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:30 PM
  #84  
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Those Aldan shocks are going to drive you to drink'n.......LOL.

Like somebody else mentioned before, you get what you pay for (quality control with the clicks). What I mentioned is you cannot test a shock by hand because nowhere in ANY shocks life will it expand "free air" like that. Again, the way the valve in the piston is designed matters as to how it will work. Because of the low cost of these shock assemblies, I'm guessing they use a very simple valving system that is speed sensitive based on the speed of the piston moving up and down. So it takes a minimum amount of movement in inches per second of piston travel to activate the valve orifices correctly and allow oil to either pass quickly or slowly from one side of the piston to the other. If you don't have enough piston speed movement then the valve orifices will not react correctly and you will get the results you're seeing now. Like I said in a previous post, the ONLY way you will know how these shocks perform from one to another is on a shock dyno. I'm just being honest here.

My very first car I bought with my own money (3 years of bussing tables after school, lol) was a used 1978 Trans Am with a throbbing 180 hp 403 Oldsmobile motor. But it was mine and I loved that car. The very first modification I did to the car was buy brand new Koni shocks to replace the original shocks with 45k on them. I spent a weeks paycheck to get those damn things and the first thing I did when I unboxed them was the compress and rebound test. Son of a bitch if these high end Koni's (high end to me at the time) didn't do the exact same thing those Aldans are doing. I would try to press two shocks at a time and one time one was faster then the other time the other was faster in extension. I spent an hour or two trying to manually compress and extend the shocks under force to see if I could get them to all react the same and they never did. The real kick in the ***** came when I tried the exact same test with the used factory shocks and they all extended at the same rate....exactly the same speed. To say that I was pissed and felt taken by Koni was an understatement. I talked to a mechanic friend that raced in the SCCA and he explained that you cannot move the shock fast enough by hand to get it to engage the valving correctly. Also, for the shocks to work correctly they have to be mounted vertically and cycled at speed to get the fluids and whatever gas was in there to separate correctly. Anyway, I put the Koni's on the car (at least they were a cool red color which should impress my friends) and off I went. In all honestly, I couldn't tell one bit of difference in ride comfort or handling. Good overall learning lesson for a 19 year old.

Good luck dealing with Aldan....hope they can make things right to your satisfaction.
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Old 01-20-2019, 10:58 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by 03Zcrit View Post
I think it only clicks 10 times because your already starting at setting 1 or setting 11 but that is so strange that one shock only clicks 9 times. It seems like their QA guy got caught up in the shutdown. I begged Garret to please have the replacement shock inspected and tested before they sent it.
Yes you're right. Should have 10 clicks.

This is such a pain.....
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Old 01-20-2019, 11:04 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by TrackAire View Post
Those Aldan shocks are going to drive you to drink'n.......LOL.

Like somebody else mentioned before, you get what you pay for (quality control with the clicks). What I mentioned is you cannot test a shock by hand because nowhere in ANY shocks life will it expand "free air" like that. Again, the way the valve in the piston is designed matters as to how it will work. Because of the low cost of these shock assemblies, I'm guessing they use a very simple valving system that is speed sensitive based on the speed of the piston moving up and down. So it takes a minimum amount of movement in inches per second of piston travel to activate the valve orifices correctly and allow oil to either pass quickly or slowly from one side of the piston to the other. If you don't have enough piston speed movement then the valve orifices will not react correctly and you will get the results you're seeing now. Like I said in a previous post, the ONLY way you will know how these shocks perform from one to another is on a shock dyno. I'm just being honest here.

My very first car I bought with my own money (3 years of bussing tables after school, lol) was a used 1978 Trans Am with a throbbing 180 hp 403 Oldsmobile motor. But it was mine and I loved that car. The very first modification I did to the car was buy brand new Koni shocks to replace the original shocks with 45k on them. I spent a weeks paycheck to get those damn things and the first thing I did when I unboxed them was the compress and rebound test. Son of a bitch if these high end Koni's (high end to me at the time) didn't do the exact same thing those Aldans are doing. I would try to press two shocks at a time and one time one was faster then the other time the other was faster in extension. I spent an hour or two trying to manually compress and extend the shocks under force to see if I could get them to all react the same and they never did. The real kick in the ***** came when I tried the exact same test with the used factory shocks and they all extended at the same rate....exactly the same speed. To say that I was pissed and felt taken by Koni was an understatement. I talked to a mechanic friend that raced in the SCCA and he explained that you cannot move the shock fast enough by hand to get it to engage the valving correctly. Also, for the shocks to work correctly they have to be mounted vertically and cycled at speed to get the fluids and whatever gas was in there to separate correctly. Anyway, I put the Koni's on the car (at least they were a cool red color which should impress my friends) and off I went. In all honestly, I couldn't tell one bit of difference in ride comfort or handling. Good overall learning lesson for a 19 year old.

Good luck dealing with Aldan....hope they can make things right to your satisfaction.
Thank you for the story/explanation. It makes sense to me.

Not that it's a legitimate test, but I got the exact same extension on both shocks on the 7 click from soft setting. I decided to test them to see if I could "Unstick" the cam adjuster so I can get 10 clicks of adjustment. It was recommended that I'd drive it for a bit, as their thinking is that it's stuck.

I guess one bit of good news about all this is no more wheel hop and traction has improved on WOT with these new ones.
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Old Yesterday, 09:30 PM
  #87  
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I'm in the same boat brother. I have a similar thread following my trials with these shocks but it's in the C6 section as these are on my C6 ZO6

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Old Today, 02:52 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by 03Zcrit View Post
I'm in the same boat brother. I have a similar thread following my trials with these shocks but it's in the C6 section as these are on my C6 ZO6

https://youtu.be/KXMjLttb9RI
Thanks for sharing this.

I'm supposed to get my new replacements tomorrow. This will be the third set. I'll update when I get them.

Man............
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Old Today, 06:04 AM
  #89  
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Were your fronts bad too? I couldn’t test them because the spring is still so long that when you wind the perch all the way down I could only hand compress about an inch. Not sure if you had a different way to test the fronts.

Last edited by 03Zcrit; Today at 06:07 AM.
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Old Today, 08:41 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by 03Zcrit View Post
Were your fronts bad too? I couldn’t test them because the spring is still so long that when you wind the perch all the way down I could only hand compress about an inch. Not sure if you had a different way to test the fronts.
No I haven't tested the fronts yet. I would think since they are just compression, it would be harder to press down as you increase the number on the dial.

Since the spring is too long, we'd have to take off the bottom perch to do that. Or try it while they are on the car and perform a push test.
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Old Today, 09:31 AM
  #91  
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Default Bad shocks rebound video

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Old Today, 09:32 AM
  #92  
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Default Replacement shocks - less oscillation on softer settings

Not sure why this video isn't uploading. I will try again.

Last edited by SVT_Z06; Today at 09:40 AM.
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Old Today, 09:36 AM
  #93  
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The difference between the two videos are:
-Replacement shocks on a softer setting
-Replacement shocks on a lower ride height
-Cleaner exhaust tips

I'm wondering if cleaning the exhaust has something to do with the less oscillation. Hmmmm....
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Old Today, 09:57 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by SVT_Z06 View Post
No I haven't tested the fronts yet. I would think since they are just compression, it would be harder to press down as you increase the number on the dial.
Did you mean the **** adjusts compression? If so, are you sure that's correct? Most of the time single-adjustable dampers only adjust rebound. I hope that's how your Aldans are, because if they only adjust compression then that's really goofy.
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