~pics/diagrams for NASA/SCCA/TA legal C6Z Cage mounting technique? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

Go Back  CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion > General Corvette Topics > Autocrossing & Roadracing
Reload this Page >

~pics/diagrams for NASA/SCCA/TA legal C6Z Cage mounting technique?

Notices
Autocrossing & Roadracing Suspension Setup for Track Corvettes, Camber/Caster Adjustments, R-Compound Tires, Race Slicks, Tips on Driving Technique, Events, Results
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

~pics/diagrams for NASA/SCCA/TA legal C6Z Cage mounting technique?

Old 12-06-2018, 06:18 PM
  #1  
STANG KILLA SS
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2016
Location: Killeen Texas
Posts: 2,658
Thanked 121 Times in 101 Posts
Default ~pics/diagrams for NASA/SCCA/TA legal C6Z Cage mounting technique?

this seems to be fairly illusive on the interwebs. especially from a sanctioning body.

any body got any pics or diagrams?
or know who or where i can get verified legal mounting techniques for these cars for w2w nasa/scca/ta?
also interested in required sandwich/mount plate thickness and sizes
and bolt size required.

so far ive only found these
https://imgur.com/gallery/i01uk
dont care for this one
b pillar


not sure how you remove this?


a pillar



NHRA is the only official diagram i can find. but obviously useless for NASA/SCCA/TA


this ones by Tollefab, i like the frame part a bit better, but dont care for the "on the floor" steel cup. seems like it relies alot "sheer" strength in several areas. but yet it works fairly well.
b pillar cant see other side if its sandwiched on the other side with a threw bolt, or just screws into inner frame wall.



Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 12-06-2018 at 06:19 PM.
STANG KILLA SS is offline  
Old 12-06-2018, 11:18 PM
  #2  
kevinj0101
CF Member
 
kevinj0101's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Fairfield CA
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

A cage builder that specialized in unibody cars explained his ideas on this to me, basically it involved large contact patches that would not allow the cage tubing to punch through. He had similar ideas with the out riggers on the frame, but a bit bigger than those in the pictures.
kevinj0101 is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 12:57 AM
  #3  
Tool Hoarder
CF Senior Member
 
Tool Hoarder's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2013
Location: Virginia Beach Virginia
Posts: 3,592
Thanked 394 Times in 254 Posts
Default

This is why aluminum sucks... those bar locations suck for room. You want the main hoop through the rear wall.

Tool Hoarder is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 10:12 AM
  #4  
STANG KILLA SS
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2016
Location: Killeen Texas
Posts: 2,658
Thanked 121 Times in 101 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tool Hoarder View Post
This is why aluminum sucks... those bar locations suck for room. You want the main hoop through the rear wall.

why does aluminum matter for location? the frame is the same is it not? why couldnt you poke threw the "behind seat" bulkhead on aluminum cars too?
and for A pilliar mount you could mount to top of rail as well like many steel frame cages?
STANG KILLA SS is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 10:58 AM
  #5  
Tool Hoarder
CF Senior Member
 
Tool Hoarder's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2013
Location: Virginia Beach Virginia
Posts: 3,592
Thanked 394 Times in 254 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
why does aluminum matter for location? the frame is the same is it not? why couldnt you poke threw the "behind seat" bulkhead on aluminum cars too?
and for A pilliar mount you could mount to top of rail as well like many steel frame cages?
I've never seen an aluminum car caged like my C5 was. They always have way less room and are done like you posted.
Tool Hoarder is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 11:29 AM
  #6  
kevinj0101
CF Member
 
kevinj0101's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Fairfield CA
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

If your under 5'10" or so it's no big deal to put the main hoop where you see in the pictures, but getting it further back makes you put it through the bulk head where the tanks are, the tanks are there and the frame gets more difficult to mount to as well. I don't think on the aluminum frame cars you have the option to remove the b pillar and make the main hoop in its place. I'm sure people with way more knowledge than me can clarify.
kevinj0101 is offline  
Old Yesterday, 05:34 PM
  #7  
smitty2919
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Jun 2016
Posts: 155
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Default

Contact Danny Popp up here in Cincinnati. He has a Road Race C5 (NOT his OPTIMA car). He would be a good resource.
smitty2919 is offline  


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Sponsored Ads
Vendor Directory

Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: