badhabit_wb

I may give that a shot on mine too. I think the front still has a little toe out instead of in. Today was the 15th track day on the AC brakes and The cup 2 tires. I'm sure the tires and brakes are about done but I did manage a 2:04.76. I just have to keep working at it

Poor-sha

Here's some video from the last session. Sorry the quality is so bad but GM supposed has a new PDR camera on the way for my car.

Basil2000

Sean, is there any cost benefit to running the Hoosiers in stock sizes over the cup 2 tires? I have 2 sets of stock wheel and tires now that i have been using on my 15 z06. I just purchased a trailer and now have the ability to bring a second set of wheels with me and would love to save money on tires without giving up performance. Also, what do you bring to the track for tires in case of rain? I was thinking of a set of super sports but was wondering if there was a better option. In the past when it rains I typically hold off or wait in hopes it stops. I know driving in the rain is good for driving skills but with cup tires it is just too dangerous.I enjoy reading this thread. Thanks

Zjoe6

Awesome driving, looks like a fun track. Seems like 2:02 is the lowest I saw. How does this compare to your best lap times on the ZR1 (on same layout out course)?

fatsport

15 track days on Cups? That’s amazing.
(sorry for the sidetrack)

Poor-sha

My best there in the Z06 was a 1:57.5 and a 1:55.9 in the ZR1. Both of those runs were on Pirelli slicks.

Poor-sha

As I recall the Hoosiers are about the same cost whether you run 18's or the 19/20 combo. This assumes you are buying new tires but obviously scrubs are a lot cheaper. The biggest downside to the stock wheels is that they are heavy and I've bent or cracked several of them on the street. So far I haven't damaged one on track.

I've tried running MPSS in the rain on track but a lot has to do with the temperature. On a cool and wet day you will never get any heat in them and particularly at VIR with the wet sealer they are treacherous. I'd bought a set of the Michelin Pilot A/S3+ ZPs for the ZR1 and still have them. I'm carrying them around with me now as my wet track tire but I haven't had a chance to test them. I'm pretty optimistic though given how well they did on the ZR1 on the street in the cold and wet.

badhabit_wb

I almost didn't post that because I didn't want anybody to think I was lying! Several of those days were in the rain. I put the cups and the AP brakes on my car in time for the NCM at VIR last year and I'm running the same tires and pads. Pretty amazing since the stock rotors only lasted a few days. I am using the 390mm fronts. They're on factory wheels and so far no issues. I did try the pss's one day in the rain and the center part of the tread peeled out. Michelin gave me credit towards as 3's but all I'm running on the track is cup 2's. If it's raining too hard I just slow down. Makes for an interesting day...

BradT

A guy in a Porsche GT3 hydroplaned on the back stretch at COTA last week and hit the wall using Cup 2's. Those tires are a real handful in the wet. I have Toyo R888R's on 18's and bring my stock wheels with Conti's on them for wet.

fatsport

Amazing, thanks for the knowledge.
I ran 4 sessions in the rain at Roebling Rd last weekend on Cup 2s. I just had to try. Was running low 1:30s laps wet vs 1:24-25 dry. A little nerve wracking at first, but steadily got more accustomed to sliding around. PTM wet was great, although maybe too intrusive. Glad I did it!

badhabit_wb

Ptm wet for sure. It's all relative. The cups are slower than the pss's and the pss's are slower than the As 3's. The rain will sure help you drive smooth. If you're already at the track and you've already paid the entry fee it's worth doing.

Poor-sha

I've spent the weekend gutting the car as far as I can for now and trying to put the ZR1 spoiler and wing bracing on. I won't go too deep in the ZR1 wing retrofit as I documented what I found in this other thread but I will say that it has been a huge pain and far for work than I expected.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-retrofit.html

Gutting the car didn't result in nearly as much weight savings as I had hoped. Now I have left in place one stock seat, the door panels, the dashboard, and center console. All the carpet and plastic trim aside from those areas has been removed. The carpet and trim amounted to just over 70 lbs, with over half of that (37.4 lbs) being the 4 pieces of carpet with sound deadening. The stock GT seats weigh 60 lbs a piece and Jason Harding posted in another thread that his OMP HTE-R seats with brackets weigh 30 lbs so the overall saving for replacing both seats will be around 60 lbs and that is before you add back in harnesses and a harness bar or cage. Bottom line is that it is really hard to pull weight out of this car and by the time the cage is in I expect it'll be close to a wash.

fleming23

What's your guesstimate on front toe now? Roughly zero front after making the change?

RapidC84B

Supposedly there is a lot of weight under the dash in a C7. Even if you keep the display screens and electronics the heater core and blower motor are all heavy. However, you may wan those if you plan to drive in the wet at all. Two of the things I'd probably do differently from my C5 race car are:

1. Keep the blower motor (maybe still delete the heater core, maybe not)

2. Keep the door beams. The doors become pretty flimsy with the door beams gone (cage required), ut on the C5 they were heavy tubular steel. The C7 they look like a corrugated beam of some kind.

LagunaSecaZ06

How are the Hoosiers on the stock wheels? Do they hold up up for multiple track days? Any delamination? Thanks

badhabit_wb

Sean the racetech seats I have are bigger and weigh 20 lbs. Not sure what the AMT brackets weigh.

Mark@AMT Motorsport

Bout' 6lbs with everything.

KnightDriveTV

In for more updates and track sesh's.....curious when this one will catch the C7Z's laps.

Poor-sha

Thanks, I spoke to Jason at Katech about this but like you I'm going to keep the fan and heater core for defog. I haven't touched the door's yet either but I think I'm going to remove the door panels, windows, motors, and tracks but keep the door bar. Mitch over at Piper said they new ones are a bear to remove and are pretty light (~6 lbs).

I've only run about a day and half on them but so far they are holding up well. I've never had issues with Hoosiers delaminating, usually they cord the outside edge, but so far so good.
Need Moar Powa! The car is at the dealer now to get the PDR camera replaced and then it's going to Piper Motorsports for the seats and harnesses. We're going to wait until we get the seats in to determine how the cage will fit and then determine whether to just put in a harness bar for now or go straight to cage, I'm leaning towards the latter.

Also, I got the Akrapovic exhaust, ZR1 wing bracket, and spoiler on the car. I'll have to snap some pics when I get it back from the dealer. I also want to put it on the scales one more time before it goes to Piper.

badhabit_wb

I wonder if a roll bar could be fashioned onto the harness bar and still work? I realize there would only be the 2 mounting points but it would greatly simplify installation. If you could come off the bar at the outermost harness loops it would make for a really clean installation.