Installing a Ron Davis Radiator, anything I need to know?
05-31-2019, 11:46 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Installing a Ron Davis Radiator, anything I need to know?
Hey all,
I'm installing an RD radiator here shortly, will probably start this weekend. Its only a radiator, no other coolers involved. Car is a C5Z. Anything I need to know or tips/tricks that you'd recommend? Feels like a simple swap, but I 've found the simple tasks often have me swearing the most!
Its almost a shame to put it in, its like a piece of art!
Thanks
Dan
I'm installing an RD radiator here shortly, will probably start this weekend. Its only a radiator, no other coolers involved. Car is a C5Z. Anything I need to know or tips/tricks that you'd recommend? Feels like a simple swap, but I 've found the simple tasks often have me swearing the most!
Its almost a shame to put it in, its like a piece of art!
Thanks
Dan
06-01-2019, 02:48 PM
#3
Racer
To protect the radiator fins, I take thin cardboard, cut it soit just fits the fins and tape it using painters tape to the radiator. Once installed, all you have to do is remove the tape and you have a perfect radiator in place. It took me about forty minutes to unbend my radiator fins the first time I installed it.
Spaggs
Spaggs
06-02-2019, 07:12 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
To protect the radiator fins, I take thin cardboard, cut it soit just fits the fins and tape it using painters tape to the radiator. Once installed, all you have to do is remove the tape and you have a perfect radiator in place. It took me about forty minutes to unbend my radiator fins the first time I installed it.
Spaggs
Spaggs
06-02-2019, 12:07 PM
#5
Drifting
Follow the instructions on electrolysis.
06-02-2019, 05:13 PM
#7
Race Director
something I've run into with almost all aftermarket radiators is that the small barbs are almost never quite the right size, and the OEM clamps aren't sufficient to keep them in place. I'd have a few extra screw-type clams on hand just to be safe. I've seen this on $800 radiators and $199 ebay radiators!
06-04-2019, 09:26 AM
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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I had to cut the rubber bushings on both the top and bottom of the radiator. The bushing around the pin on the passenger side also needs to be trimmed.
The other thing that I found difficult on both C5s that I installed my radiator in was the front wiring harness which was large enough in diameter to make it difficult to get the fan support panel out and the radiator and passenger side hose in place. The AC condenser was easy to manipulate by using a screw driver to lift it out of the mounts on the front of the old radiator.
While you have things apart is a good idea to make sure the seals between the radiator intake shroud and the condenser are in good shape. They went to hell pretty quick on C5s when they were less than a year old so could be pretty bad on cars that could be up to 22 years old. If those seals are bad a lot of air just blows to the side of the AC Condenser and enters the engine compartment without passing through the radiator. Also make sure your center air dam is duct taped to its support bar so it will not deflect backwards when you hit something with it. That will keep it from deflecting backwards at speeds above 100 mph. Both of those items are things that can reduce the cooling effectiveness of a stock or aftermarket radiator.
My RD Radiator with an remote mount engine oil filter (1 quart capacity filter) increased the oil capacity of both my 97 LS1 and 03 LS6 from 7 quarts (with quart overfill) to 9 quarts (with quart over fill). With the stock thermostat the RD radiator kept coolant at 200 degrees and oil at 230 degrees during 40 minute sessions on days with ambient temps in the low 90s.
Bill
The other thing that I found difficult on both C5s that I installed my radiator in was the front wiring harness which was large enough in diameter to make it difficult to get the fan support panel out and the radiator and passenger side hose in place. The AC condenser was easy to manipulate by using a screw driver to lift it out of the mounts on the front of the old radiator.
While you have things apart is a good idea to make sure the seals between the radiator intake shroud and the condenser are in good shape. They went to hell pretty quick on C5s when they were less than a year old so could be pretty bad on cars that could be up to 22 years old. If those seals are bad a lot of air just blows to the side of the AC Condenser and enters the engine compartment without passing through the radiator. Also make sure your center air dam is duct taped to its support bar so it will not deflect backwards when you hit something with it. That will keep it from deflecting backwards at speeds above 100 mph. Both of those items are things that can reduce the cooling effectiveness of a stock or aftermarket radiator.
My RD Radiator with an remote mount engine oil filter (1 quart capacity filter) increased the oil capacity of both my 97 LS1 and 03 LS6 from 7 quarts (with quart overfill) to 9 quarts (with quart over fill). With the stock thermostat the RD radiator kept coolant at 200 degrees and oil at 230 degrees during 40 minute sessions on days with ambient temps in the low 90s.
Bill
06-05-2019, 01:22 PM
#9
Hey Dan, I used one of the vibrating blade tools to cut out the holes in the radiator shroud as per DRM recommendations on the radiator install. I first drilled holes for the corners of the cut outs. The oscillating tool made it a 20 minute job. You'll find that the radiator really helps with keeping temps down at your pace. Consider adding water wetter.I had no trouble eliminating air from the system. Check your PMs. I hope I see you at the track! David