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I found a great article to perform a DYI alignment located here > http://www.flintcorvetteclub.com/images/Autocrossing/Alignment%20%28Web%29.pdf#search='aligni ng%20corvette'
Not trying to get off subject but will that tool really help? If it's a magnetic mount it won't help with aluminum wheels. Also, if the degree scale pivots as it appears to, it seems that getting an accurate measure of the angle would be difficult at best.
Any camber gauge will work. All you want to do is turn each wheel a specific amount (15deg out to 15 deg in for instance) and measure the camber change. All you really want is to keep both sides close to each other.
I've actually calculated the conversion that you can actually use to convert to a real number. I'll dig it out if you really want it. Regardless, and method of calculating camber (buble gauge, level and tape, etc) can be used to measure castor.
I read that article, and it defines postive caster as tilting the steering axis forward. Isn't positive caster when the steering axis is tilted to the rear?? In other words, isn't that diagram showing positive caster? If not I've been wrong for a while and the caster on my car is way wrong.
How to Measure Castor and Camber: Use the level or castor/cambor gauge to read the camber of all 4 wheels. Camber is the tilt in or out looking from the front of the car. Write these numbers down. Negative camber is the tire/wheel tilting inward at the top. For the front, we need to measure castor. To due that, turn the wheel full lock to the left, and then measure the camber on both L and R wheels. Then turn the wheel full lock right and measure the camber. Subtract the two left wheel camber numbers and that will be the left wheel castor setting, and the do the same for the right wheel Note that you really want to turn the wheel +/- 20 degrees, but full lock is real close and much easier to duplicate. Also, the actual castor setting is not critical, but any difference side to side is since it will make the car pull to the side that has more castor. Toe must be measure/adjusted AFTER castor/camber is adjusted
Huh????
CASTER is the difference in CAMBER from left to right????????????
Don't believe I've heard this before.
Correct me if I'm wrong........
The CASTER number is an individual wheel number. Left hasn't got anything to do with right.
CROSS CASTER is the difference between left and right.
I think you may want to set caster individually then go check the cross caster afterwards.
If you WANT cross camber or cross caster you can set it when you set individual wheel caster & camber.
Pretty much ditto on camber.
Last edited by VetNutJim; Jan 17, 2005 at 03:37 PM.
For the front, we need to measure castor. To due that, turn the wheel full lock to the left, and then measure the camber on both L and R wheels. Then turn the wheel full lock right and measure the camber. Subtract the two left wheel camber numbers and that will be the left wheel castor setting, and the do the same for the right wheel Note that you really want to turn the wheel +/- 20 degrees, but full lock is real close and much easier to duplicate.
The castor for the left wheel is the difference between the two left side readings and the castor for the right wheel is the difference between the two right side readings. Set your camber gauge on one wheel and make both readings as you move the steering then switch to the other wheel and repeat.
Bill
Must have been late last night.
What 69 said makes sense this morning too.
It just looked like he said the caster was the difference BETWEEN the left and right min/max caster numbers.
Actually he said it was the difference IN the left and right min/max numbers. which is A-Ok.
If memory serves me correct, to measure caster from a camber guage turn the front of the wheel 20 deg to the inside and read camber, then turn 20 degree to the inside from the rear part of the wheel. subtract from the first reading and multipy by 1.5. Bought a camber cast guage and just read the number now.
Another way is to turn your wheel so that the edge of the rim moves from 2" out, to 2" in. Multiply the camber change by 2.5, and you have approximate castor.
This is easy to do by puttin a jackstand outside your tire as a reference. A friend to turn the wheel helps.
As probably mentioned, absolute castor is not nearly as important as keep both wheels the same.
In theory, if you could turn your wheels 90 degrees, your castor and camber would be equal when the tires were turn fully to the side.
As mentioned above, the directions that came with my camber gauge said to turn wheel 20 degrees one way and take camber, then turn 20 degrees the other way and take camber. The gauge came with a floor template to get the 20 degrees from centerline accurately. Caster is 1.5 times the difference between the two. Be careful with the positives and negatives.
For example, one camber reading comes to -3.5, the next +0.5. The difference is 4.0. Caster is 1.5 x 4.0 = 6.0. Do the same thing on the other side of the car.
Goal is to get max caster, matched side to side as close as possible. I have found I normally have to sacrifice caster on one side to get side to side matched. But when I don't match side to side, the car pulls.