Hi all,

Got to do some work on the car today and I was shooting for dropping the tank. I got to the point where I am going to have to remove both rear mufflers and the U bolts came off with no problem, but the mufflers seem reluctant to slide off at the joint. I was just wondering if there were any "tricks" to getting these babys off? I figure just a little patience and a dead blow hammer, but hey - if I really knew I wouldn't be asking...

Thanks in advance for the help....

 

The mufflers seem to be in good physical shape, and I just saw that a pair of these cost $400! Think using some Eastwood Exhaust Spraypaint is a good idea while I have them off?

 

A typical slip joint exhaust system will require considerable effort to remove any coupling (including the mufflers), since the U-bolt clamp deforms both the outer and inner tubes (which form mating ridges that capture themselves together). On top of that, rust also forms in this area, and adds to the problem.

Most of the time, I use a hot wrench (OX-Acy torch) to heat the tubing to cherry red, and then it is still somewhat of a battle to remove one tube from the other (but once hot enough, the tubing can be moved and/or rotated a little, and once to that point, you know that eventually it will come free). The only other method I know of, requires sawing (or use a cut-off wheel on a die grinder) a slit in the outer tube, so that it can be opened up, and then removed. The slit then needs to be rewelded (carefully, so that minimal material is added to the inside diameter, but even that needs to be ground back down smooth), so that the tube can be reused.

For future use, I apply a coating of "Red" RTV (High Temp Silicone) to the outside of the inner tube prior to assembly. This lowers the installation force (acts as a lube), seals the area (lowers the U-Bolt force required to seal & prevents rust), and then I don't have to tighten the U-Bolt as much (just enough to snug the 2 tubes tightly together, but not enough to cause the ridges I mentioned above). Only downside is that you should wait until the RTV has "set" (depending on temp and humidity, could take up to a day), before driving. When it is time to disassemble, you will be surprised at how easy it is to unbolt the U-Bolt, and then rotate/pull the tubes apart, since no rust has occurred in the joint, and no deforming ridges to couple the tubes together. I have used this method for over 20 years, and it works great.

But exhaust system work is never "fun"!

Plasticman

 

Great advice....thanks a lot!

I have never attempted this so I knew there might be some words of wisdom...I really don't want to buy new mufflers in the process of getting out the tank...

Thanks again, and any other input would be appreciated!

 

Without knowing how long your mufflers have been there and how rust bonded the joint is this may not do much good - but on a muffler I recently pulled off I squirted some CRC lubricant up in the joint and then wiggled the muffler around a bit and as the lubricant did it's thing, it pulled right off. This was a fairly new truck however, but it's cheap and easy to try.

 

Thanks for the continued help...

 

Check your Eastwood catalog. They have a really trick (wish I had thought of it first) tool for separating mufflers/pipes. It has two clamps, one goes on each side of the joint, and screws to "push" the pieces apart.

-Greg

 

Just wanted to let the forum know that the Eastwood tool did the trick. It was a little pricey and doesn't have the typical "high quality for your high dollar" build as many other Eastwood parts (can you say Made In China?) but I don't see how anybody could remove mufflers without it. Mine were totally fused and after a little bit of experimentation on placement and realizing that you HAD to use an air rachet, they gave way with no problem.

After a thorough pressure washing I found that I had gone through all this trouble to remove a Midas replacement and a original? that had parts & rust rattling around inside. The cutoff wheel would have saved me money and time....

Oh well...that is part of the whole restoration process! I have photos of the removal process if anyone wants me to post them.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

Now you know one of the reasons so many guys and gals run factory side pipes on their midyear cars. Not only for the great sound and great look, but to get the exhaust system OUT OF THE WAY for anything you want or need to do underneath the chassis.

Less labor and time removing and reinstalling the exhaust system to work on your Corvette = MORE TIME DRIVING your Corvette.

 

If you want to eliminate the problems caused by deformed exhaust tubing with the old "U" bolt type of clamp, you might want to look into the band type clamp now available. These don't deform the tubes and are readily available. See for example http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...16&prmenbr=361
for a sampling.

 

Take a die grinder and cut two slits, 180 degrees from each other, length wise on the muffler pipe where it slips over. You only need to cut as far as the clamps were. This allows the end of the pipe to open up a little and slip off. When you're done with the project you can re-install and re-clamp.

 

I had to drop my drivers side muffler to install my new antenna on my 65 coupe.. What a PIA... Ron beat me to the punch with the band clamps.. I intend to use them next time I put pipes on or then again, I might go with side exhaust..

/joe