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Tail light Tango

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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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From: Bryan TX
Default Tail light Tango

I am going to replace the tail lights in my 64 coupe. However, while (gently) feeling around up there with the old lights in place, I must have bumped something and now my left hand brake light does not work. The parking and turn work fine, but not the brake light. Right hand side works fine. Before I tear into this thing any thoughts about what might be causing this? Everything looks intact, no broken wires , ground straps in place, the harness looks intact,I looked at the connecter(pigtail) and it seems fine. New light bulb, Just no power to the brake light. I'm stumped! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Dennis
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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If you are sure the new bulb is still alive and kicking, then I'd suspect you have brittle wires that finally gave up the ghost. If you were going to replace the taillights anyway now would be a good time. Most places sell the chrome bezels, bulbs, and pig tails as a unit so it will all be new anyway. All new, except the wiring harness leading up to the pig tail that is...

Bullshift
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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Your pigtail will twist out for inspection. There are springs behind both wires that keep the wires in contact with the bulb. These frequently rust/wear out. Replacement pigtails are readily available from a parts store.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 10:36 AM
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It sounds to me like one of the grounds is loose and/or corroded on that side. You may have brushed it enough when feeling around. If I remember, each tail light has it's own ground. Turn on your parking lights and step on the brakes. If they work and then go out when you step on the brake, it is probably the grounds on that set of lights. The ground is usually positioned on the top stud of the tail light.
Paul
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Default Tail Light Tango

Well, I tried the suggestion that I turn on the parking ligts and the turn signal at the same time and then hit the brakes. No brake light and no effect on any other light. Parking light stayed on, turn signal stayed on. This of course was on the left side where the brake light has not been working. On the right side everything worked as it should. Is this in the Pigtail or in the harness? If in the harness, can I run a jumper from the right side brake light over to the left side as a solution. If pigtail, why does the parking light and turn signal stil work? there are only two wires going to two filaments. There must be some point at which the wire from the brake switch is not continuos from the right to the left side. Does this make sense. I really don't want to replace the harness, and I also don't want to have a nice hidden electrical fire melt my 64. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, by the way, if it makes any difference, this is a b/u light optioned car.
Thanks,
Dennis.
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 06:33 PM
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Not to be silly but have you removed the bulb and reinstalled it? I just put a new rear harness in my 66 vert and everything worked before but when I checked it the right tail light did not work. I pulled the connector and reseated it, no help. Reseated the rear harness to dash harness, no help. Removed and reinstalled the bulb.. PRESTO.... Also just went back and reread your original post. So the bulb is new... Have you swapped the bulbs left to right? If so and still it does not work then I'm out of suggestions however if none of these work out post again and I will try and take some measurements with my trusty Fluke DVM.... Dave...
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis1964
I am going to replace the tail lights in my 64 coupe. However, while (gently) feeling around up there with the old lights in place, I must have bumped something and now my left hand brake light does not work. The parking and turn work fine, but not the brake light. Right hand side works fine. Before I tear into this thing any thoughts about what might be causing this? Everything looks intact, no broken wires , ground straps in place, the harness looks intact,I looked at the connecter(pigtail) and it seems fine. New light bulb, Just no power to the brake light. I'm stumped! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis
I gather that the turn signal works, but the brake light doesn't. If so, that eliminates a lot of things, since the brake and t/s lamp are the same circuit after they leave the t/s switch. Chances are you have a bad t/s switch if I am reading your description of the problem correctly.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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62 fuelie;
Your reply is most interesting, and may answer other issues as well. I've had this vette(64 coupe) for 2 years, and the left t/s has never cancelled. Also, as I was checking the workings of the lights, I noticed an echo (faint) of the right turn signal in the left signal when in operation. Beyond this, when I have to make a slow sharp turn , or a quick turn, ocassionally the horn will sound. Are these issues all connected to steering column/t/s switch problems? Will replacing the switch fix the horn issue or do I have to look else where? Additionally, since we have moved from the back of the car to the steering column in this quest, the bell or second section of the column is loose(slightly. If I go into this change, and it looks like I have to, will this just be a matter of tightening up something or is there a major problem.
Do I need the whole switch and harness that I see in the CC catalog and what do I need to fix the horn?
Thanks for all the help from everyone.

Dennis
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis1964
62 fuelie;
Your reply is most interesting, and may answer other issues as well. I've had this vette(64 coupe) for 2 years, and the left t/s has never cancelled. Also, as I was checking the workings of the lights, I noticed an echo (faint) of the right turn signal in the left signal when in operation. Beyond this, when I have to make a slow sharp turn , or a quick turn, ocassionally the horn will sound. Are these issues all connected to steering column/t/s switch problems? Will replacing the switch fix the horn issue or do I have to look else where? Additionally, since we have moved from the back of the car to the steering column in this quest, the bell or second section of the column is loose(slightly. If I go into this change, and it looks like I have to, will this just be a matter of tightening up something or is there a major problem.
Do I need the whole switch and harness that I see in the CC catalog and what do I need to fix the horn?
Thanks for all the help from everyone.

Dennis
As for the horn you must make sure that the pinch bolts and rag joint are tight and not worn out allowing the steering shaft to come towards the driver. This effect is the same as pushing the horn button down causing a 'toot'. Also, when the steering column comes out even a small amount it loosens the upper bearing in the steering column causing the steering wheel to flop some and this will also toot the horn. Simple to fix, just remove the steering wheel and then you can push the bearing back down and then tighten the pinch bolt down at the rag joing area.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 12:21 PM
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Default Tail light Tango

MasterDave,
Well that's exactly what happens with the horn! If I pull on the steering wheel it toots. Thanks for the info. By the way, does the column have to come out to change the t/s switch or to tighten the pinch bolts? Whatever they might be?.
Thanks
Dennis.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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Dennis

Here is a rough outline of some steps for replacing the signal switch. Others please jump in with the fine points.

Remove Horn Button – just pry off gently.

Remove 3 screws holding horn contact “spring”.

Remove wheel if you want – 6 screws. Can be pulled with the hub attached.

Use steering wheel puller to pull hub after you have removed the hub retaining nut at top of column.

Remove signal lever from housing and switch.

Remove 3 screws holding switch to hub.

Disconnect wires from the harness connectors found on the lower column. Mark these carefully for correct reinsertion into the connectors. You need to thread the wires through the escutcheon (column collar at the dash) and perhaps through the plastic wire mold on the bottom of the column. Mine was missing.

Pull switch out of the housing. The bearing will probably stay with it. New bearing came with the switch I bought.

Check the canceling cam on the bottom of the steering wheel hub.

When putting new switch in make sure it is the “neutral position” to avoid damaging the canceling cam.

Replace column nut and washer, torque and work your way back out.

Good luck.
DZ


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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis1964
MasterDave,
Well that's exactly what happens with the horn! If I pull on the steering wheel it toots. Thanks for the info. By the way, does the column have to come out to change the t/s switch or to tighten the pinch bolts? Whatever they might be?.
Thanks
Dennis.
No, it can all be done with the column in place. The pinch bolts are down by the rag joint. One is on the column itself with a split in the outer column and the other, on the splined shaft will have a spring just above it, kinda looks like a hose clamp. When you're done the steering wheel should not pull up at all. If it does you'll need to tighten it some more. The turn sig. assy is held in with 3 long phillips screws and will remove easily with the wheel off. Oh, and the upper bearing is the dumbest installation I've seen. It looks very flimsy. You'll see when you disassemble it. You just push everything into place (down) and tighten the pinch bolts below. It does work, but it looks pretty strange.

Last edited by MasterDave; Feb 8, 2005 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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From: Bryan TX
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Thanks everyone for all the help. If I had not have started here and just torn apart the rear end to try to fix this well, I'd really be in a fix. Will be getting a new t/s switch on order tonite. If anyone else has other help info on this, it's most welcome.

Dennis.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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Just a recommendation but while you are doing this why not just pull the column. You can replace your bearings and races and check the column tube for broken tangs at the end of it. I found 2 of the 4 tangs broken on mine. It created a lot of play in my steering wheel, after 40 years of people using the steering wheel as a crutch to get in and out it takes a toll... Dave
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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From: Bryan TX
Default Tail Light Tango

My thanks to all who have responded!!! Especially to Master Dave and DZVette. Your info on the turn signal swithch and the Illustrations on how to do the job made it a snap, well almost. I diid find that dropping ther column and open ing the harness guide made it much easier to get the wiring in place. Mine had a singal rivit holding it in place, and then the guide snappedopen. I had cut the old connecctors threough the wires at the base of the column to majke sure I had the right order on the harness when I put it back together. But beyond forgettting to lube the new beaering and having to pull the wheel the next day when I thought of it, it brought my brake lights back ! Got the switch from lectric limited and they had it to me in 3 days no extra charge!

Now of course I have another problem. (Couldn't you guess?) My left (drivers) side headlight opens fine, but I have to crank it closed. Very frustrating! Right side works great. Any thoughts on this on?

Thanks, Dennis.
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