Half Shaft problem
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: georgetown KY
Half Shaft problem
well guys i made the horrible mistake of buying u joints that were'nt spicer and now i'm paying for it. while pressing them in i bent one of the u-joint flanges. it's 60 degrees and sunnyoutside, so i'm none too happy about being vettless.
i've been pricing flanges and found the going rate is about $60. add four spicer joints to that and then i'm looking at around $140. i was shopping around and found a set of complete 3" half-shafts, spicer u-joints, and the flanges for $140.00. they're made by fort wayne clutch and driveline, so i was just wondering if anyone could offer any insight.
somebody help me out please, haha..
thanks
andrew
i've been pricing flanges and found the going rate is about $60. add four spicer joints to that and then i'm looking at around $140. i was shopping around and found a set of complete 3" half-shafts, spicer u-joints, and the flanges for $140.00. they're made by fort wayne clutch and driveline, so i was just wondering if anyone could offer any insight.
somebody help me out please, haha..
thanks
andrew
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: Westerville oh
I’m in Columbus Ohio and we have several shops that specialize in drive shaft balancing. They will actually make you a drive shaft or half shaft to order. I suggest you start there for ideas and suggestions.
If you don't have a local shop e-mail me and I'll get you some contacts here in Columbus.
Good luck
Mike
If you don't have a local shop e-mail me and I'll get you some contacts here in Columbus.
Good luck
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
You can get brand new halfshafts with the u-joints installed for 125.00 a pc from ZIP... That's what I did when the shop I asked to press out my u-joints decided that I didn't know what I was talking about and beat them out.. They bent both flanges and I made them buy new ones.... Dave...
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
The problem has nothing to do with the U-joints; it has to do with not using either another flange or a reinforcing plate bolted in all four places to the flange you're working on to prevent it from distorting while removing the old joints and installing the new ones. Not using a flange or plate tool to reinforce the flange almost guarantees damaging it. 
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Originally Posted by 1964coupe
well guys i made the horrible mistake of buying u joints that were'nt spicer and now i'm paying for it. while pressing them in i bent one of the u-joint flanges. it's 60 degrees and sunnyoutside, so i'm none too happy about being vettless.
i've been pricing flanges and found the going rate is about $60. add four spicer joints to that and then i'm looking at around $140. i was shopping around and found a set of complete 3" half-shafts, spicer u-joints, and the flanges for $140.00. they're made by fort wayne clutch and driveline, so i was just wondering if anyone could offer any insight.
somebody help me out please, haha..
thanks
andrew
i've been pricing flanges and found the going rate is about $60. add four spicer joints to that and then i'm looking at around $140. i was shopping around and found a set of complete 3" half-shafts, spicer u-joints, and the flanges for $140.00. they're made by fort wayne clutch and driveline, so i was just wondering if anyone could offer any insight.
somebody help me out please, haha..
thanks
andrew
As John stated, the problem has nothing to do with the brand of joints. I always clean the bore out with a bore brush and then lightly scuff them with emery paper. Makes going back much easier.
I have also saved several bent flanges. Don't know as I'd recommend it but here goes. I have a pilot that will just slip through the bores of the flange. Using whatever means available, vise, hammer, back up plate, spring/bump the thing back in position until the pilot will slide smoothly through both bores all the while being careful not to bend the attachment flanges. Your new joint then should go in smoothly. Double check your work after you bolt the flange back to the axle. Rotate the joint through the full range of axis end check for binding. If you have smooth motion in all directions, you are good to go. If you have any binding at this point, it means the attaching flanges pulled the flange out of alignment when you tightened it down. It's worked for me. You're on your own if you try it but it looks like you have little to lose.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: georgetown KY
i shopped around and ran into these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
don't think they were a bad deal at all so i'm gonna give them a try. i'd never done u-joints before, but once i saw how nicely i bent the flange i did machine a plate that fit the back of the other straight flange for the next time......i plan to break many u-joints with mah' torque monster, haha.
thanks guys, and lemme know what you think about the ones i bought.
andrew
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
don't think they were a bad deal at all so i'm gonna give them a try. i'd never done u-joints before, but once i saw how nicely i bent the flange i did machine a plate that fit the back of the other straight flange for the next time......i plan to break many u-joints with mah' torque monster, haha.
thanks guys, and lemme know what you think about the ones i bought.
andrew
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: georgetown KY
Originally Posted by MikeM
As John stated, the problem has nothing to do with the brand of joints. I always clean the bore out with a bore brush and then lightly scuff them with emery paper. Makes going back much easier.
I have also saved several bent flanges. Don't know as I'd recommend it but here goes. I have a pilot that will just slip through the bores of the flange. Using whatever means available, vise, hammer, back up plate, spring/bump the thing back in position until the pilot will slide smoothly through both bores all the while being careful not to bend the attachment flanges. Your new joint then should go in smoothly. Double check your work after you bolt the flange back to the axle. Rotate the joint through the full range of axis end check for binding. If you have smooth motion in all directions, you are good to go. If you have any binding at this point, it means the attaching flanges pulled the flange out of alignment when you tightened it down. It's worked for me. You're on your own if you try it but it looks like you have little to lose.
I have also saved several bent flanges. Don't know as I'd recommend it but here goes. I have a pilot that will just slip through the bores of the flange. Using whatever means available, vise, hammer, back up plate, spring/bump the thing back in position until the pilot will slide smoothly through both bores all the while being careful not to bend the attachment flanges. Your new joint then should go in smoothly. Double check your work after you bolt the flange back to the axle. Rotate the joint through the full range of axis end check for binding. If you have smooth motion in all directions, you are good to go. If you have any binding at this point, it means the attaching flanges pulled the flange out of alignment when you tightened it down. It's worked for me. You're on your own if you try it but it looks like you have little to lose.
you're tryin to kill me aren't ya, haha. i've been thinkin about how to save the flange so i'll definately have to give that one a try. i'm just aching to get the rear end all back together so i can get it to a garage with a lift and get that ZZ502 in there.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,537
Likes: 280
From: Egg Harbor Township NJ
2015 C2 of Year
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Originally Posted by JohnZ
The problem has nothing to do with the U-joints; it has to do with not using either another flange or a reinforcing plate bolted in all four places to the flange you're working on to prevent it from distorting while removing the old joints and installing the new ones. Not using a flange or plate tool to reinforce the flange almost guarantees damaging it.
A-Men To That...
I just Installed all new Spicer U Joints as Per Mr. John Z ... I used this handy dandy tool from Harbor Frieght. The one I bought at the time was $19.00 ..It's Now listed at $39.95. It's the one on the top of the link not the bottom one. It clamps into your bench vise and holds the work steady.
It helped support the Driven Flange without causing it to bend, Of course they came out like Stuff Thru A Goose....Nice and Easy.
For Some Reason the link is not working.... Google Harbor Frieght ..and then go into there search ..and search ...."U" Joint"..It should come up..
Try this.. http://www.harborfreight.com/
Now search "U Joint"
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; Mar 7, 2005 at 05:15 PM.
