knock off spinners stuck
#21
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Location: Monroe Twp NJ
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Glad to hear that they finally came loose. I've been reading this post with interest as I am about to install KOs for the first time. Good advice about the anti-sieze - so it should go on the threads and the shoulder where the spinner contacts the rim? My installation instructions say to tighten the spinner with the wheel in the air (in bold font and all caps - so I figured they were serious). What is the best method for tightening? I have the lead hammer that came with the wheels - and I also picked up a 4# dead blow hammer from Harbor Freight (on the advice of other forum members).
Thanks,
Thom
Thanks,
Thom
#22
Le Mans Master
I do tighten them (my initial blows, not my "and take THAT too" blows) in the air, I just don't get them started on the loosing cycle in the air (I would say this rather similar to my standard practice for changing regular wheels - get the lug nuts initially loosened while wheel is on the ground, and get the lug nuts initially tightened, but not my final twist, while in the air.)
as for anti-seize, my threads are not ever rusty, perahps a slight dab on them before spinner instertion keeps em neat - the mating surface on the spinner and wheel is where I put the anti-seize, actually HELPS the spinner get fully twisted down.
just me, others may have different thoughts.
as for anti-seize, my threads are not ever rusty, perahps a slight dab on them before spinner instertion keeps em neat - the mating surface on the spinner and wheel is where I put the anti-seize, actually HELPS the spinner get fully twisted down.
just me, others may have different thoughts.
#23
Safety Car
Originally Posted by ThomC
Glad to hear that they finally came loose. I've been reading this post with interest as I am about to install KOs for the first time. Good advice about the anti-sieze - so it should go on the threads and the shoulder where the spinner contacts the rim? My installation instructions say to tighten the spinner with the wheel in the air (in bold font and all caps - so I figured they were serious). What is the best method for tightening? I have the lead hammer that came with the wheels - and I also picked up a 4# dead blow hammer from Harbor Freight (on the advice of other forum members).
Thanks,
Thom
Thanks,
Thom
Thom
The reason for tightening in the air is to assure the wheel is aligned properly before final tightening on the ground. Just like ctjackster describes in his post.
#24
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Dave,
Jack,
Thank you for the info. That's what I was thinking from reading the archives on this subject (and there certainly is a lot of material regarding KOs). Looks like the most important things are: 1) follow the instructions, and 2) keep an eye on them.
It is kind of funny how many different ways folks describe "Beat the ___ out of them" (crap, bejesus, hell, poop, daylights, snot... )!
Thanks again,
Thom
Jack,
Thank you for the info. That's what I was thinking from reading the archives on this subject (and there certainly is a lot of material regarding KOs). Looks like the most important things are: 1) follow the instructions, and 2) keep an eye on them.
It is kind of funny how many different ways folks describe "Beat the ___ out of them" (crap, bejesus, hell, poop, daylights, snot... )!
Thanks again,
Thom
#25
Burning Brakes
From the 1965 Corvette Shop Manual:
CAUTION: Tighten wheel locking nuts every 100 miles for the first 500 miles by striking the wings eight hard blows with the hammer provided.
Ol Blue
http://www.knology.net/~corvettes/63vett.jpg
CAUTION: Tighten wheel locking nuts every 100 miles for the first 500 miles by striking the wings eight hard blows with the hammer provided.
Ol Blue
http://www.knology.net/~corvettes/63vett.jpg
#26
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southern NJ
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C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Originally Posted by r quicke
Got em off,found if I hit the lead with a #4 sledge they came right off, kept it on the gound to start with and the loccking rings stayed put like they should.
Thanks Roger
Thanks Roger
#28
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Originally Posted by r quicke
Got em off,found if I hit the lead with a #4 sledge they came right off, kept it on the gound to start with and the loccking rings stayed put like they should.
Thanks Roger
Thanks Roger