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I'm sure this has been discussed before. I have a '58 with a '69 350, and I, like many people would like to use the Corvette "script" aluminum valve covers seen on so many 58-67 Corvettes.
The '69 valve covers came with breathers and an oil fill cap. Adding a replacement aluminum intake (Edlebrock) with an early style oil filler tube usually addresses oil filling problems and makes the look right. However, the issue is adding the valve covers without the breather(s). Concerns about the engine breathing/running properly, oil blow-by in the engine compartment, etc remain.
These 2 cars on ebay appear to have this set-up without cutting into the covers for breathers. Any thoughts on this? Is there a problem/solution I'm missing?
------- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting
You can use the oil fill tube that is threaded for a PVC valve and run it like that. The PVC valve screws into the side of the tube and the rubber hose goes to the carb. I think the 1966 and 1967 327s were made this way.
This way you get a low-cost simple solution and you're not venting the blow-by to the atmosphere.
Will this picture work?
Last edited by Seaside63; Jun 22, 2005 at 10:06 PM.
That solves the 'out' problem, but what about the 'in'. You will have to have a breather to let fresh air in, either in a valve cover or in the back of the block. The later 350 block lacks the vent can in the lifter valley.
Use the later covers for cross engine ventilation.
I don't think that quite solves the problem. The engine needs a filtered air intake somewhere. For his 350, that was on the valve cover. For the period engines with the script covers, they had a crankcase vent on the back of the block drawing air from a port on the air cleaner.
Any guesses what the 2 cars on ebay are doing? I asked one of them and he just said his car ran fine.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm starting to think I may have to add breather(s) to inconspicuous places on the covers, probably at the backside (closest to the firewall).
I am planning on doing nothing at this point....my engine builder and I talked about doing something, but came to the conclusion that unless I was going to run the heck out of it, that for normal driving and some kick in the butt driving every now and then that the vents would not be needed.....he did see someone at a car show recently that solved the problem by taking a cover and machining out the script and then rewelding the left over end pieces together.
Then they closed the bottom to make a box out of it. Added a filler neck to it and ran some very SS small hoses to the back sides of the covers where a fitting had been welded in. They used this set up for filling as well as breathing. The covers and the box had been chromed. He said it had been tastefully done.
I plan on leaving it like it is.....no vents....let me know what you find out.....by the way, my 350 was out of a mid 70's Camaro...took it out and it was really tired....redid the entire motor....and it ended up as a 383 stroker......
by the way....look at the '63...you can see that they used the covers with the casting flaw in it.....I found a real nice set with out the flaw...you have to look, but they are out there.....I am thinking of polishing my covers....thought about chrome...but I think the expense is too much for me....
I don't know how to attach the photo to show how I fixed my crankcase venting, but I can tell you for a fact without the ventilation,oil will go everywhere on the underside of the car.
What I did was drill a one inch hole in the side of the left valve cover that faces the back of the carb, got a rubber grommet from O'Reilly's and put a PCV valve in and it is barely visible when the air cleaner is on and it works. NOM so why split hairs now?
Done this way it isn't really too obvious but if you want the solid valve covers this is the easy way to fix it.
My '67 had the same setup (1969 350ci) when I bought it 21 years ago. Some Einstein had drilled a hole in left hand script valve cover and put a cheapo PCV. I bought a replacement script valve cover, put on the original PCV setup and let her go. I've driven it now for 21 plus years without a problem. I agree with your mechanic. Don't worry about the intake unless you're planning to raw dog it all the time.
These 2 cars on ebay appear to have this set-up without cutting into the covers for breathers. Any thoughts on this? Is there a problem/solution I'm missing?
------- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting
The first one (the C1) only has a vented oil fill cap, so it has no "ventilation" - only pressure relief, which will blow oil mist out of the vented cap and make it a chore to keep the engine bay clean.
The second one (the SWC) doesn't even have pressure relief - it has a sealed cap on the oil fill tube, and no other openings at all, and will have gasket and seal oil leaks as a result.
Here are two solutions for proper PCV systems on late blocks without the rear vent hole - either one will work fine, as both have an "intake" side for incoming outside air and an "exhaust" side with a PCV valve to the carb base.
This one uses the stock PCV valve and hose from the oil fill tube with a sealed cap to the carb, and an "intake" hose from the air cleaner to a hole on the inboard side of the valve cover:
This one uses a vented cap on the oil fill tube as the "intake" point, and has a PCV valve installed in a hole drilled in the intake with an oil baffle underneath it and a hose to the carb:
JohnZ, I recently picked-up a cap that is supposed to go in the rear road draft tube vent hole (at the back of the block). The "cap" has a threaded hole in it that looks like it can take a PCV valve. Assuming the fitting takes a PCV valve, and a breather was run on the fill tube, would that provide adequate ventillation? Would the oil separator/canister under the intake still be needed? This would be for a 59 283. Thank you, Wes
I personally like that second solution shown by John...very clean and inconspicuous. I certainly wouldn't recommend not having an intake somewhere, just asking for problems.
My '63 has only Positive Crankcase Ventilation (first year of any pollution controls). There is no provision for negative pressure ventilation.
I am inclined to believe that there should be very little negative crankcase pressure (vacuum) due mostly to the presence of blow-by, where cylinder gasses are forced past the piston and rings into the crankcase.
It's hard to imagine a situation where gasses are sucked UP into the combustion chamber from the crankcase below. Any vacuum during an intake stroke would have to be more than offset by a power stroke elsewhere.
I also enjoy the second solution John showed with the PVC valve tapped into the valley cover of the manifold. Simple, sweet and innocuous.
I believe I'll buy an Edlebrock #2101, open up the front boss and add the '58 style oil fill tube, along with the correct vented cap. I'll add the hole in the intake behind the carb and hose it to the carb. That should look nice and clean, and very stock-ish.
I also had some help from Rick who I found in the archives; he sent some nice pics of a drilled manifold with a welded baffle underneath. Great stuff.
JohnZ, I recently picked-up a cap that is supposed to go in the rear road draft tube vent hole (at the back of the block). The "cap" has a threaded hole in it that looks like it can take a PCV valve. Assuming the fitting takes a PCV valve, and a breather was run on the fill tube, would that provide adequate ventillation? Would the oil separator/canister under the intake still be needed? This would be for a 59 283. Thank you, Wes
Yes, that will work OK, and you'll still need the oil/vapor separator canister in the lifter valley, so the PCV valve only pulls vapors, not liquid oil, into the carb. Your system would then function much like the one-year-only '63 system that had the "intake" side at the oil fill tube and the "exhaust" side at the rear block vent hole. Chevrolet reversed the flow direction in '64 so the "intake" side was at the rear vent hole and the "exhaust" side was at the oil fill tube. See my article in the July '05 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine for a complete explanation of how PCV systems work and of every Corvette PCV system from '53 through the present.
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