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Removing Dash Cluster on 67

 
Old 09-15-2005, 09:42 AM
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SMR 67
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Default Removing Dash Cluster on 67

Having never done this before, how difficult is it to remove my dash cluster on my '67 in order to get to the gauges? Reason - the temp gauge is not pushed flush against the rear of the cluster in its socket, and I'd also really like to clean the glass in front of all the gauges (Bubba left some prints at one time or another).

I see that there are screws around the edge/rim of the front of the dash cluster - is it a simple matter of removing the screws and pulling out the cluster? I will not attempt if this should best be left to someone more experienced.

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Old 09-15-2005, 09:49 AM
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Tom Piper
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My experience with my '64 is you should have a shop manual before attempting this.
There are many bulbs and connectors to be disconnected. If I wasn't for the shop manual to follow the wiring color telling me where these bulbs and connectors went back, I think the job would have been much more difficult.

In addition, you have to disconnect the tach and speedometer cables and support the cluster assembly. I've heard of some using a couple of long bolts to hold the dash cluster up, but pulled back, in order to make it easier to access the wires and such.

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Old 09-15-2005, 09:54 AM
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SMR 67
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Thanks - I may leave this one to someone who's done it before. Don't want to mess with something I have no business messing with.
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:17 AM
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ctjackster
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technically, not too tough. John Z will come along and post a picture of the dash partially removed and supported by the londer bolts mentioned, a real must when you are going to reinstall the thing and you are getting all the f-ing bulbs plugged in to the right places.

You'd want to drop your steering column before hand too.

and I do mean f-ing bulbs. Frustration level can exceed level of spontaneaous swear word utterence, easily.
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:12 PM
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JohnZ
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I like to use 1/4"-20 x 8" bolts, with the heads cut off, as supports while removing/installing the cluster (with the steering column removed). I wrote a two-part photo-illustrated step-by-step series of articles on removing/installing a C2 cluster in the July and September 2004 issues of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine you might find helpful if you decide to do it yourself. Back issues can be ordered at 800-448-3611.



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Old 09-15-2005, 01:57 PM
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it's like magic or something.
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ctjackster
technically, not too tough. John Z will come along and post a picture of the dash partially removed and supported by the londer bolts mentioned, a real must when you are going to reinstall the thing and you are getting all the f-ing bulbs plugged in to the right places.

You'd want to drop your steering column before hand too.

and I do mean f-ing bulbs. Frustration level can exceed level of spontaneaous swear word utterence, easily.
f-ing bulbs is right! Actually the bulbs aren't that bad but when you add on the uncomfortable on your back position and the confined working space, and easy task becomes very frustrating. I did this about a year ago and used the labler I always tease my wife about. I made two labels for each number - one fore the socket or connector, and one for the back of the dash. Made reassembly easier.



The guts of the cluster aren't too complicated but most have some old dry cracked green paint that always seems to remain after you've reassembled everything. Don't know how to handle that.




Good luck
Brian
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:37 PM
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mrichard
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Default Green paint on instrument cluster

Does anyone have a source or formula for the two shades of green in the cluster and clock? Is this stuff something that helps illumination and gives the gauges the glowing look in the dark? I am rebuilding and would like to get this correct. I have done several of these, by replacing gagues and lenses, but have never gotten into the correct paint scheme. Thanks
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Old 09-15-2005, 03:40 PM
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For paint try Home Depot or something similar. I was able to obtain the two different greens for my cluster there in their spray can section.

Rich
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Old 09-15-2005, 05:43 PM
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TOTAL pain..........unless you have tiny hands!!! The longer bolts are a great idea, but the wires aren't long enough to extend way out. It requires ALOT of patience and you MUST have an assembly manual or wiring diagram to re-install or mark everything as you unplug it. FUN, FUN, FUN!!! GOOD LUCK, tough, but it can be done if you are patient
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Old 09-16-2005, 08:27 AM
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Old 09-17-2005, 08:47 PM
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Pulled mine today. Wasn't bad at all to do. My only problems - 1)Bubba rounded the edges on the brass nut on the oil line to oil gauge and I had to cut it to remove it....Now I have to find another oil line. 2) Ignition switch - I never could get the thing to unscrew all the way. I wound up pulling the dash forward and removing the wire connector to it by pushing on the tongs from the front.

I hope I can find an oil line locally ! Else, I did find them in the supplier catalog - I just hate waiting and paying shipping charges for it.
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Old 09-18-2005, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
2) Ignition switch - I never could get the thing to unscrew all the way. I wound up pulling the dash forward and removing the wire connector to it by pushing on the tongs from the front.
Did you remove the lock cylinder from the switch? You can't remove the threaded bezel from the switch with the lock cylinder in place.
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Old 09-18-2005, 10:40 PM
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John - No, that is were I it fouled up.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:37 PM
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Steve Stone
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I posted this on another thread about '65 cluster light sockets falling out:

I have always disliked dealing with the dash, bulbs, clusters etc. from the very first time that I removed and reinstalled mine 53 years ago. I had put some of the sockets in the wrong places & knew that I would not ever do that again. My current solution to all the issues I have experienced is that I numbered all lamp sockets & corresponding locations on the back of the dash housing. I also experienced sockets falling out so I drilled 2 small holes 180 degrees from each other & installed pan head sheet metal screws to capture the socket flange on all of them. I also split the low voltage power harness (bulbs & meters) & installed 4 way flat trailer plugs (qty 4 & color coded). This allows bench testing continuity & 12V before reinstalling the dash. I found that removing the front of the dash, I can change all the bulbs without removing any of the sockets. I always replace all bulbs at one time. I clean & deal with any issues when the dash is apart. None of this is visible after the dash is reinstalled.

Before I actually remove the dash I disconnect the roll over switch, ignition switch, the lights switch, the wiper wires, & lighter hot wire. Also the oil line needs to be disconnected from the oil gauge. Having the 4 trailer plugs installed I simply pull each apart.

All wires on the back of the dash are gathered & zip tied to keep them from getting too close the steel support bar that is very, very close to the back of the dash.

Also a bit of trivia. The bulb #257 for the rollover over headlights & the parking brake light is the same bulb used on Lionel crossing gates.

I am the original owner of my '63 triple black convertible Vette & current mileage is 548,000.

Web photos & articles Google: Steve Stone 1963 Corvette
Direct contact: [email protected]

Hope this helps you & others.

Enjoy the ride.

Steve
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:00 PM
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Eleven year old thread....I would hope SMR67 has already completed his dash project...

Last edited by dkleather; 01-20-2017 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 01-20-2017, 11:38 PM
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Steve Stone
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dkleather
I did read this thread and did know it began in 2005. If I could find this thread, others can to. So that is why I posted my information (to help others) on this thread and on the much newer thread mentioned in my first line above. At the risk of receiving more snide comments, such as yours, I will continue to post information when and where I can.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Stone View Post
dkleather
I did read this thread and did know it began in 2005. If I could find this thread, others can to. So that is why I posted my information (to help others) on this thread and on the much newer thread mentioned in my first line above. At the risk of receiving more snide comments, such as yours, I will continue to post information when and where I can.
Steve,
Your information will most certainly be appreciated but the search for it would be much easier and successful for those needing it if it was entered as a new thread and not buried in one from 2005.
That's all I wished to convey.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:28 AM
  #19  
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I just pulled my 67 cluster out last weekend. Never pulled one before and didn't find it that difficult. My hands are not small and using the bolt trick above helped give some clearance. My cluster is out at Rick's Restoration and getting it back in early-Feb. I'm installing LED bulbs while I'm at it. There are several articles from this forum and google that I used and they were invaluable - PM me and I can send you links. I'm not looking forward to putting the cluster back in as it looks like it will be more difficult to get it back in, especially bulb sockets.
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