Ron Miller

Well, I've decided after 25+ years it may be time to start using a battery disconnect on my cars, you know, older wiring, etc., . . .

I think I'd be better satisfied with the lever or blade type, rather than the **** with the screw, but I never see the lever type advertised, only the **** type. What do you guys use, what is your experience with these, and where do you recommend purchasing?

Thanks for the input,

Ron

JohnZ

I've used the "green ****" type on many cars over the last ten years, and have never had a problem with them. Some folks prefer the lever/blade type ("Savety Switch"), sold by LGB Industries, (877) 639-1691; they advertise in the "Driveline".

Ron Miller

Thanks for the quick response, John, and for the info on where to purchase. I've never used either type, but it looked like the blade type would be a little quicker and handier, especially for a car that's driven fairly frequently. Might try one of each, the lever type on the frequent driver and the "green ****" on the infrequent driver. That way I'll know which I prefer!!

ctjackster

Opinions differ (this topis seems to generate a regualr debate over on the NCRS forum, off all things) but I will just add that I am a green **** cut-off switch user for years (no issues) AND you can take the green **** with you (nice anti-theft bonus) which is not an option on the knife switches.

Ron Miller

Good point, Jack . . .

Dennis Beck

I like and use the green **** device. Put it in your pocket when you have to.

MJB

I installed a heavy-duty enclosed switch and wired it in line between the battery and the ground point on the engine. I mounted the switch in the diagonal battery brace that supports the battery tray (C-1). In this way I can just reach under the car behind the right front wheel and disconnect the juice without lifting the hood. While not as absolute at theft prevention as taking the green **** with you, I venture to say that I throw that switch way more frequently then if I had to screw around (no pun intended) with the ****.

I recall that the switch is rated at 1000 amps intermittent and 200 constant which is plenty to cover starting and running. Find them in racing catalogs such as Summit or Jegs for around $25.

327Heaven

I've been using the green **** for a few years and will switch to the lever type soon. One problem I'm having is when I completely remove the **** I have a heck of a time reinserting it back in. Seems like the halves separate just enough to cause a mis-alignment issue. Seems like the ones I get are cheap junk. Not fun on a dark rainy night.

Anyone else have this problem?

Olustee bus

The only problem I have had with the green **** is I have shorted the unit against my battery "securing bracket". I fixed that by changing the placement of the battery connection.

vark_wso

Ron,
Changed to the SAVETY knife-lever after experiencing continuity problems with 'green ****' types. Very satisfied with workmanship & function of this (US made) switch.

Chuck Gongloff

The knife switches are also sold my none other than JC Whitney in their catalog. They're made by Wirth-Co, and come in different configurations for top post and side post batteries.

I like the knife switch. Have them on all of my cars. I melted a few "green wheels" in my day. Chuck

JAF1

I also like the knife switches. I got my mine at the local Advance Auto for about $22.

JWD01

"Green ****" user here also. Have them on two cars and never a problem in over 15 years.

Rubyred

I had the same problem with the green **** types and changed to the knife types with no problems.

keithkhd1

DITTO

StrayDog

I had been using the green **** device for about 8 years,with no problem, but as I had to open & close my hood so many times ,it was apain in the as%, last year to went to an electronic switch under the dash,. that completley turns off power via a switch under the dash .no need to open & close hood, more convienent & used more often....its looks like (is)a ford starter solinoid that is mounted on my firewall ....anybody want photos email me >>>stanhoy@comcast.net with your e-mail adress....will be away till Monday...going to Denver for weekend to see patriots game ..woff the Dog.Note purchased from Hotronics tel 714-971-8573, it is a quality component

Driver 61

I had a solenoid type on my first vette ,many years ago, with a. toggle control switch under the dash. I believe it had to be continuous duty type, I would like do same thing on my new 1961. I am looking for correct solenoid now, Anyone have a part number??

Richard

DansYellow66

I've had the same continuity problem as VARK with my green **** unit on my GTX. I like the knife blade switch on my Corvette and its given me no problems.

Ron Miller

Thanks, guys!! You've given me a lot of useful information, things to consider. That's one of the reasons I like this site so much,
a wealth of knowledge waiting to be tapped.

I think I may try the green **** on my infrequent driver, and the lever type on the daily driver. I've already ordered one ****, gonna try it & see how it works before deciding for certain on the second one.

(Also like the comments regarding the relay type or the manually switched rotary switches, may look further into one of these if I can figure a good convenient place to mount it).

Thanks again, and keep the comments coming if you've had any experience with any of these!

Ron

TJefferson2020

When you guys mention a "continuity" problem with the green ***** do you mean that they sometimes don't work when you screw them in? I had this happen to me a couple weeks ago and the car was completely dead. Wiggled it around and it worked. Is this what you mean?