I searched the forum !

Consensus view seems to be go with the Lectric Limited ? Remove glove box and door, radio and panels, console, cluster and steering column ? I've had the cluster out to replace the gauges.

Is the cluster the toughest part of the job ? 2 days or longer to accomplish ?

Thanks.

 

I replaced the dash harness in my 63 SWC a few years ago. I did not remove the steering column, but I did get 2 1/4 x 20 four inch long bolts and replaced the two end screws in the dash. Then after removing the rest of the dash screws I could "slide" the dash out. Made it really easy to work on. I also removed the drivers seat to give me more "belly & wiggle" room. I used masking tape on each connection I removed I wrote a number and then put the number and location in a note book. Made it real easy to put the new connections in. The total time was about eight hours over two days.....
I also used Lectric Limited, I think the cost was around $385.... the nice thing about this is that things began to work correctly..... like lights would come on when I opened the door..... Go for it and don't be intimidated.....

 

you have no doubt seen the advice to use the long bolts to hold the cluster out from the dash - strongly advise you go that route, since, in my view, the hardest part is the placement of the little f-ing bulbs (must be like a hundred of them) in the cluster since the harness, when otherwise connected, does not give you too much extra room to, say, have the cluster laying in your lap whil plugging in the bulbs.

 

How was it done at the factory ? I can't imagine them laying on their backs plugging the bulbs in

Maybe (?) they did ALL the cluster connections (bulbs/wiring), installed the cluster, pulled the harness through and then the other connections ?

 

all I know is, when I tried to do it sans the long bolt trick, I was inventing a whole new category of cuss words, on my back, contorted . .. who knows what the did at the factory - they could have had the car suspended upside down for all I know - of course JohnZ will now post a B&W picture of a little midget guy whose sole job was cluster bulb installation . . . kinda like that guy with the big "persuader" whose sole job was getting doors to shut properly . . .

 

This is one job I've been putting off but I know I have to get it done sometime. The long bolts I'm told really make a big difference. Hey, wiring the dash first and then looming it through the inside of the firewall might work but don't you have to thread the wires behind the fuse block through the firewall first? Do pictures so you can retrace your steps. Let us know if that does work.
Thanks, Dan

 

the main bundle is seriously thick, it is not very maleable, and you will not be "feeding" it through anything . . .

 

There goes that idea

What is the GM part number for: A short midget with long skinny fingers ?

I'm already dreading it...

 

When the car was built, the entire instrument panel (fiberglass main panel, eyebrow pads, cluster, instrument panel harness, speaker, speaker grille/defroster outlet, clock, radio, heater control cables, etc. was built up off-line as a complete assembly and installed as one piece. Then the heater control cables were connected at the heater box and the glove box and door were installed. No midgets involved . Lots easier to deal with when it's all one piece, out in the open where you can deal with it without standing on your head (and needing a chiropractor to help get you out of the car)

 

Now there's and idea!! Just pull the entire panel out, install all the goodies, and put it back!

Since there's only one bonding strip (I believe) involved just below the radio, along with the "wings" of the assembly pop riveted at the outboard ends, it might not be too long before someone goes this route!!

PS - Thanks for the insight, John. Always wondered how this particular item was done at the factory, just never asked. Is this shown in Noland's book? Don't remember offhand.

 

Thanks John,

Since the dash is out of my car I will be sure to do it this way when the time comes to put it all together again.

I really appreciate your postings. The little tidbits help us all tremendously.

 

what, no GM midget story ?????

 

Thanks JOHNZ ! It is great hearing about the factory assembly processes.

 

Nope, that process isn't covered in Noland's book.

 

I did this job in early 05 on my 67, which has factory AC that makes the dash harness particularly hard to maneuver. In fact, I had to cut up the old, brittle harness to get it out in pieces. Definitely remove the steering column and front seat, and definitely use six 6-in-long threaded rods (or bolts with heads cut off) to support the cluster as you work on it. How to remove and install a midyear cluster is shown in two excellent articles by JohnZ in the July and August Corvette Enghusiast. It would have been nice if the LL harness I used had had wires about an inch longer than stock, because there is precious little extra wire length to work with when installing the harness. The job takes about two days. I also installed engine compartment/front lights and rear end harnesses at the same time, which I would recommend down the road, since those areas of the car are more accessible than the underdash area.

For some reason, getting the big firewall connectors for the new engine harness and new dash harness snapped together was a major undertaking. They just didn't want to mate. I had to get help from a second person to get the job done.

I strongly suggest that you buy a COLORED wiring diagram from Don Olson. He sells them for your specific year Vette. Being able to trace out a colored line in a wiring diagram makes all the difference when you are uncertain which wire goes where. I don't have Don's email address handy, but someone here will likely provide that. Don's diagrams are inexpensive and pretty enough to frame on the wall of your house, not just your garage!

So, get the harness, get the colored wiring diagram, read JohnZ's articles, take your time, and you will end up with a much higher comfort level with your Vette and its new dash wiring.

 

John, glad to finally have the dash/wiring, factory installation issue cleared up. For longer then I can remember, every time I had to do the midjet thing to get all the crap back under the dash to complete a restoration I kept telling myself, " there's got to be an easier way to do this "

A few years back I saw part of a video of the Camaro assemble line in Boisbriand Quebec, which, by the way, was only an hour or so from my place. I distinctly remember seeing one of the line workers, installing a dash assembly, including the complete wiring harness that was supported by some type of articulated arm, and I though at the time, " man that would be a great way to do the wiring in a mid-year ". However , during the subsequent restorations, never actually got to try it out yet.

You can bet however, the next one will be going in exactly the way you have just described.

 

I couldn't have said it better. Thanks.
Don
vetsvette2002@yahoo.com

 

I think we all wish John would write a book. He covers many things the other books fail to. Did you notice the inch lb. torque wrench in his picture ? Probably torquing the blind nuts to spec. Just teasing, that is the right way to do things.

Anyone want to play detective ? Do you watch CSI ? ( Crime Scene Investigation. I don't, but have heard it is popular.) I thought CTJACKSTER would have questioned me about my post and I was ready to be vague and misleading with my answers

Why I REALLY posted this. I have only had this car for about 4 months and you know how you learn about your car over time. I pulled the cluster and replaced the gauges a few months ago. No problem except with the oil pressure gauge line/pipe fitting. Everything worked fine. All the electrical items in the car - even the courtesy lights worked - even the one in the top storage area, even the clock worked ! A couple of weeks ago the speaker died. I posted about it or the stereo/radio. I pulled the radio panels and tried another speaker and it worked fine. So, I thought it was just the speaker. I removed the one that I was testing with. When I removed the radio panel the flasher unit fell down from the top of the radio ? It had two wires going to it. I just layed it back up there. I was impressed that NO wires had been stripped for aftermarket speakers/radio or guages over the years. I did not see one exposed wire anywhere, behind the cluster or radio. The two wires to the flasher had the original connector and looked fine. Just seemed to be too far towards the passenger compartment and not attached to anything.

I was driving the other day and in about 2 seconds smoke BOILED from the radio area. I had the top and windows up and I mean to tell you it filled the car up with smoke in no less than a few seconds. I was trying to breathe and get stopped at the same time. I shut the engine off and coasted into a parking lot ready to grab my fire extinguisher (side note. It was the Fire Dept. parking lot at that ) I had not reinstalled the panels, because I was going to fix the speaker later. When I shut it down the smoke stopped and I did not have to use the extinguisher ( the fireman never even paid any attention to what was going on.) I looked in the area and one of the wires that went to the flasher was COMPLETELY burned in to two pieces. Just the one wire.

Today I thought that I might could splice it without buying a new harness (sob story, I have been out of work for several months and $400.00 is hard to cough up, right now) I pulled the radio, clock, console, etc...started removing the factory tape to see how far the wire had burned back through the harness. All the way to the back of the instrument cluster, it looks like there is a factory splice of 3 to 4 wires at one point and that is how far back it goes. It COMPLETELY burned up the wire insulation for that wire and singed others it was touching. I'm afraid that it damaged the insulation of the other wires to the point that I would NEVER be comfortable trying to replace or repair this harness or wire. New is the only way I will go.

Any idea's why this may have happened ? I swear, I do not see ANY butchering or exposed wires on this harness anywhere. This wire burned EXTREMELY HOT for almost 2 ft. There is hardly ANY of the wire itself insulation left.

Be careful. This happened so fast that I can't put it into words. Just BAM ! Keep a working extinguisher in your car.

And while I'm there...I guess, I will repaint the fiberglass vertical console. Nothing happened to it. It just looks too glossy to me. What is the correct black to use for it ? Flat or Semi-Flat black ? I'll do the spray can thing...although I hate too. John Deere part number or SEM ?

Thanks again.

 

Probably really should start a new post with this one, but here's a quick guess:

Your flasher should be in a clip attached to the driver's side radio side cover. In the pic below you can barely see the bottom of mine in the black clip that holds it. I would guess one wire to the flasher is hot with the key on, it accidentally grounded against something lying atop your radio, and thus the flash and flames!!! (Would have to check the wiring diagram in the assembly manual to verify that a flasher connection is hot with the key on).

 

Ron - Yea, I was tempted to do a new thread.

Yours is the way I remember my 66 being. Let me ask this...instead of a round one, mine is almost a smaller rectangular one. Maybe a replacement at some time ? The thing is...this wire just didn't make a little spark or a little smoke. IT IS COMPLETELY GONE ! If you have seen a piece of wire that was tossed into a fire and just a few strands are left over that is what this looks like. But, only this wire, even as hot as it appeared to get. If it grounded...would it have been this bad ?

I'll try and get some pictures. I know my descriptions stink.