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Viewing "decked" engine stamp pad

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Default Viewing "decked" engine stamp pad

Hi Guys

My block has been decked twice however the builder states that he could see numbers albeit faintly. The motor is now nicely painted and installed however I was wondering if there is a recommended procedure for viewing the numbers without making a real mess of things. I figure that I can remove the paint without to much trouble but am hoping that maybe there is some sort of known CSI process of "raising numbers".

Thanks

Doug
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Shurshot
Hi Guys

My block has been decked twice however the builder states that he could see numbers albeit faintly. The motor is now nicely painted and installed however I was wondering if there is a recommended procedure for viewing the numbers without making a real mess of things. I figure that I can remove the paint without to much trouble but am hoping that maybe there is some sort of known CSI process of "raising numbers".

Thanks

Doug
Your builder must share some physical characteristics with Superman. If the block was decked, it would be virtually impossible to see numbers that used to be there. This issue has been discussed before but the techniques are really only usable in crime scene investigations to find serial numbers on guns and such. At least IMHO.
Gary
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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Shurshot..While I am not familiar with the process, I do know that there are techniques used by law enforcement and crime labs to enable them to read numbers that have been(seemingly) ground off of firearms and various vehicle parts by criminals. You might start by looking for either a University near you that has a criminology/forensics program, or try an auto theft task force to get more info. Good luck
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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Default faint numbers

If the numbers really are there but very light and hardly readable....clean and dry the area good and use some chalk to try and highlight the numbers.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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GaryS, you must have been typing yours while I was typing mine....
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by toadster
If the numbers really are there but very light and hardly readable....clean and dry the area good and use some chalk to try and highlight the numbers.
Thanks


I believe that would be a great start in the right direction and then maybe the local university before proceeding to an auto theft task force. I have owned the car for 29 years and it came with a clear title but talking to a cop without knowing for sure about a eng# might not seem the best idea in hindsight.

Doug
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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Muratic (10% HCL) acid is available at most hardware stores and might bring out enough contrast in the metal. Apply with a Q-tip and scrub. The side effects and neutralizing it would be a serous problem. Baking soda should work.


I have owned the car for 29 years
So have I. Bought 'Old Blue' in Oct '76. What year is yours?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:17 AM
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Speaking as a Level II Non Destructive Test inspector, I perform liquid penetrant tests and magnetic particle tests to detect small surface and subsurface cracks.

In this case a magnetic particle test would be appropriate though you are not actually looking for a crack. What you are actually looking for are discontinuities in the metal structure that would interfere with magnetic lines of flux and create an "indication" or a disruption.

With that being said, when you "stamp" or otherwise distort a metals surface you create these discontinuities. Using a "DC electromagnetic yoke" to detect subsurface indications one could "theoretically" see these indications. If the block has been decked to remove the numbers, there would still be metal depressions deeper in the steel that "could" be detected.

I say theoretically, because most of the equipment available to the average technician/layman is much to clumsy to use for such small and faint discontinuities. It would require some specialized magnetic equipment. I'm sure the tools exist for this type of work too, maybe in the aerospace industry. The block would have to be opened enough to do the work, no heads etc.

Ultrasonic testing is available as well but I'm not as familiar with that method.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
.

So have I. Bought 'Old Blue' in Oct '76. What year is yours?
Hi

Mine is a 66 L72 with 4:11's and side pipes and as yours was purchased in 76. In the beginning the car pushed the envelope in both motor and suspension but one day a dog of mine chewed a hole through the side to get to a raccoon that was doing its best to stay alive. The car got butchered by two repair shops after the dog ate it however in 01 I found a good man (albeit slow) to bring it back to near original. So now I am soon to start enjoying it again, hopefully a little wiser and a little slower. I used to get tickets a pocket full at a time.

Doug
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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one day a dog of mine chewed a hole through the side to get to a raccoon that was doing its best to stay alive
The dog ate it. Now I've heard evrything.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
The dog ate it. Now I've heard evrything.
Man!!!!! I'm gonna have to quit coming in on the tail end of these threads!!!

Thought for a moment there that the dog ate your engine block!!

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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mgsouthard
Speaking as a Level II Non Destructive Test inspector, I perform liquid penetrant tests and magnetic particle tests to detect small surface and subsurface cracks.

In this case a magnetic particle test would be appropriate though you are not actually looking for a crack. What you are actually looking for are discontinuities in the metal structure that would interfere with magnetic lines of flux and create an "indication" or a disruption.

With that being said, when you "stamp" or otherwise distort a metals surface you create these discontinuities. Using a "DC electromagnetic yoke" to detect subsurface indications one could "theoretically" see these indications. If the block has been decked to remove the numbers, there would still be metal depressions deeper in the steel that "could" be detected.

I say theoretically, because most of the equipment available to the average technician/layman is much to clumsy to use for such small and faint discontinuities. It would require some specialized magnetic equipment. I'm sure the tools exist for this type of work too, maybe in the aerospace industry. The block would have to be opened enough to do the work, no heads etc.

Ultrasonic testing is available as well but I'm not as familiar with that method.

Holy Level-II-Non-Destructive-Test-inspector Batman!

wow, we have a little bit of every specialty in our midst!
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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The dog ate it!....I'm still laughing and tear running down my face That's a hunting dog if I ever heard on one. Dennis
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Shurshot
Hi Guys

My block has been decked twice however the builder states that he could see numbers albeit faintly. The motor is now nicely painted and installed however I was wondering if there is a recommended procedure for viewing the numbers without making a real mess of things. I figure that I can remove the paint without to much trouble but am hoping that maybe there is some sort of known CSI process of "raising numbers".

Thanks

Doug
Doug...email me when you get a chance and I'll share with you a technique I've used over the years. Also is the block out of the car?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Shurshot
Hi Guys

My block has been decked twice however the builder states that he could see numbers albeit faintly. The motor is now nicely painted and installed however I was wondering if there is a recommended procedure for viewing the numbers without making a real mess of things. I figure that I can remove the paint without to much trouble but am hoping that maybe there is some sort of known CSI process of "raising numbers".

Thanks

Doug
I was talking to an NCRS guy who said this happens all the time and if you can find out the numbers, there are some guys out there than can produce a re-stamp that is so close to original the judges will give you the benefit and consider it original. Not saying that is the right thing to do unless you know the original numbers and they are correct. Good luck.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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Did the dog git the coon?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
The dog ate it!....I'm still laughing and tear running down my face That's a hunting dog if I ever heard on one. Dennis
Well it took me a little longer to see the humor in it


Actually that was one of two cars that my dogs did major damage to. I had a two week old Continental that a land crab ran under in its futile attempt to avoid two dobermans. Because they couldn't chew on the metal they clawed the car to death and the only part that did not have to be resurfaced and painted was the roof.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ricks327
Did the dog git the coon?

Him too along with a few other critters that couldn't read the sign.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:19 AM
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There is a purple fluid the Aviation mechanics at the hanger use to look for hairline cracks.

They spray it on, and then blow it off with an air hose, then hold a black light to it.

Might not work, but might be a simple try.

Mark
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 04:50 AM
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thats also what i have heard a dye that picks up the impregnated steel stamp thats not visable to the eye ,,,,like wrighting on a pad of paper the you get a pencil to the page underneath w the lead the letters show up
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