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Some questions on 327/300 engine

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Old 01-11-2006, 09:26 AM
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67saginaw
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Default Some questions on 327/300 engine

Couple of questions on a 67 327/300 - original engine, runs good when Holley works ok, blows a little blue smoke, unknown mileage over 100K. Do not plan to overhaul at this point, but getting ready to replace front seal and vibration dampner and radiator.
Checked for timing chain slack by turning crank with a wrench and watching distributor rotor - got about 9-10 degrees slack several times. Does anyone see any major problems continuing to run or do I need to replace timing chain set? I know it should have very little to be the best condition; I just replaced gear set on 302 Ford truck and the new one was very tight - no slop at all. Comments, opinions for driver car use. Sorta hate to drop pan to get timing chain cover off if I don't have to.
Another Question - Practical holding fixture for vibration dampner while installing - 327/300 does not have a bolt retaining the dampner and factory manual lists a fixture to hold outer portion from moving while tapping the dampner in place on crankshaft. I have done this in past but can not remember what I did 20 some years ago, probably some C" clamps arrangement of some description. Hazards of growing older I guess.
Again all comments are appreciated.
Old 01-11-2006, 10:55 AM
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67L36Driver
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unknown mileage over 100K
High milage small blocks generally have issues with valve guide wear and slack in the timing chain set. Ring seal should be OK unless it has been repeatedly abused/overheated.
On a 300 hp I don't think the cam lift is enough to cause trouble between the valves and pistons if the timing chain slips, but I have been wrong before.
If it were me, I'd pull the heads for reconditioning and drop the pan for a timing gear/chain set.
Old 01-11-2006, 11:11 AM
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JohnZ
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That much slack indicates a lot of wear/slop in the timing set; probably worth replacing it. A couple of C-clamps will work fine to stabilize the outer ring instead of the K-M tool while installing the balancer; I use a large socket and a 3# dead-blow hammer, with light blows, and have a helper hold the clutch pedal down while I'm doing it to avoid brinelling the rear of the thrust bearing surface. Use some sealer in the key groove in the hub so you don't get an oil leak through the hub.
Old 01-11-2006, 05:28 PM
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67saginaw
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Thanks for the info, gentlemen.
Old 01-11-2006, 06:21 PM
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Seaside63
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Rebuild that motor.

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