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Car died -- HELP -- please

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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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Default Car died -- HELP -- please

Ok as you might recall in my last post we had a few issues after our frame off. Took care of those issues. Decided to take it to a show about 20 miles away.

When we got to the show we were a little late and got a crappy parking spot. Someone left and we were told to move into that spot. The car wouldn’t start. Right before the battery dies of cranking it, it finally did.

After the show it started no problem, drove down the highway no problem. At our exit light the care idled real weird and just died and wouldn’t start. I had a car following me for this very reason and they went to get the trailer. Once the truck and trailer got there the car stated fine and I drove it home, then it died in the garage at idle..

As long as the car is running down the road it is fine.
once the car has been running for a while and then tries to idle it dies and wont start.
Once the car sits for a while it starts no problem.

Ideas?
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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Put in a new ballast resistor.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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I am a broken record, and I vote coil crapping out when hot (but that's how I always vote) - basic non-TI replacement coil (not numbered correct) can be had for $35 or so from places like LICS, maybe even cheaper from NAPA etc if you know what part to order
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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I thought about both of those. WE had a similiar problem in our 70 and the ballast resisistor was the culprit. But the car would die running down the highway also. Ill try it and see whats up.

I have a brand new coil on there... could be bad i guess.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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What's it do when it's idling? Does it start to slow down, get running lumpy? If so that would mean it's loading up at idle. If that's the case you'd be able to floor the pedal after it dies to clear it out and it should start (and then load up at idle and die again). If it hunts, RPM goes up then down and dies, that's a lean condition. If it doesn't act like either case then it's probably ignition.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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It really sounds like a carbeurator issue to me from your description. Dirt in the needle valves, clogged fuel filter, float bowl not adjusted properly or a faulty choke, if you still have one.

Does the car have points or a conversion to electronic ignition of some type? If so, it could be a bad ignition module.

Coil is my other thought as others have said. Ballast resistor also could be the problem. I'm still guessing fuel.

Good luck. Let us know what you determine.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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I agree with the fuel diagnosis. Had the same problem two years ago. Handled the fuel issues as described and no problem since. Good luck. Let us know.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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If you have ignition shielding on the car, check to make sure all of the ignition and coil to distributor wiring is not arcing over to the shilding (as it will most definitely kill the ignition). Had it happen to me once and you honestly could NEVER predict when it would kill the car (but could do it anytime). Any little movement of either the engine or shielding could result in the arc. Based on your description, it might be wise to run around without the shielding and see if it takes care of the problem. If it does, reorient the ignition wires away from the shield (especially at the coil +/-). Good luck.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cww53
I thought about both of those. WE had a similiar problem in our 70 and the ballast resisistor was the culprit. But the car would die running down the highway also. Ill try it and see whats up.

I have a brand new coil on there... could be bad i guess.
I would also say it might be the coil. About 8 years ago, I had the exact same thing happen on my '67 Mustang, and I replaced the coil. Turned out the that rep coil was ALSO bad. I replaced the new coil and never had a problem since.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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I vote for the coil. I've had hot start problems with a few cars and they always traced to a bad coil. A fairly cheap, easy fix.

Good Luck
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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I'm surprised nobody asked you if you tested for fuel and spark....

I would start there.

First when it dies, take off the air cleaner and give the throttle a pump. Is there fuel going in the carb?

Next, if you have fuel, remove a spark plug and place near ground. Crank engine - do you have a spark?

If you don't have a spark (I suspect your trouble is ignition related) get a multimeter and check the (+) terminal on the coil - should be 9-12 volts depending on if you have a ballast resistor. If you don't have power here, check the connectors to the dash - they are notorious. Also check the smaller wires to the starter - a loose one will cause intermittent problems.

Be systematic and you will find your trouble.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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After doing countless things to figure the problem out including adjusting the floats... which I was sure I just made the problem worse.

I took the carb off and the bowls to re adjust the floats by sight and get it in the general correct spot... I noticed a small piece of rubber from my fuel line clogged into one of the jets. I guess when I cut the line for my fuel filter I didn’t clean out all the pieces...

Runs great now. Thanks.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 06:38 AM
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Glad to hear you figured it out and can drive it again. I thought it was fuel/carb related. Now you can enjoy it...until the next problem.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cww53
After doing countless things to figure the problem out including adjusting the floats... which I was sure I just made the problem worse.

I took the carb off and the bowls to re adjust the floats by sight and get it in the general correct spot... I noticed a small piece of rubber from my fuel line clogged into one of the jets. I guess when I cut the line for my fuel filter I didn’t clean out all the pieces...

Runs great now. Thanks.
AHA!!!!! Good work. Ain't it funny how some things turn out to be really simple?
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