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To which extend can frame rot be repaired?
After lifting the body I discovered some bad spots on my 65 frame.
How do you treat the rust inside the frame, with sandblasting its only the outside you get rust free.
Is an acid bath the only option to get the rust on the inside?
I am planning to galvanise my frame after making it rust free, has anyone expierience with that?
Where there are many holes there is much thin steel. Where there is thin steel there is a need for a lot of repair. I think you're going to have to cut that whole corner off and repair. I'm 90% confident that I will be in the same boat when I remove the body. I could probably get it repaired but I'll still have a pitted frame needing much prep and attention. So --- I'll probably buy a new frame or a nice solid core to restore.
Some guys spray oil or some other inhibitor inside to remove the rust. I think a dip is the best way to get rid of it. If you galvinize, will paint stick to it?
Take a screwdriver and poke around back there near all the holes - don't be gentle. See what happens.... How is the other side?
An acid bath is the only way I know of that will dissolve the rust inside the frame. If you do go the acid dip route, it will more than likely reveal damage than is currently not visible. Since you don't want to put the car together with bad spots in the frame, finding all the bad areas is not a bad thing. By the looks of the condition of your frame you will definitely need extensive repairs and maybe even some frame pieces replaced. I'm sure you will get many more ideas from forum members as yours is not an uncommon problem.
I would start looking for another frame. The acid bath may be a waste of money if it's not worth fixing. Test with a screwdriver first, like another forum member suggested.
If the frame is worse that you thought or going to cost more than $3K to fix I would suggest the following solution. I did go to Rowley Corvette this fall and looked at the frames they are selling and I was impressed with the quality. I think the SS frame is a bit over the top than the regular steel one for $3,999.99 is a decent deal. Gawd, I can remember getting a complete frame from GM for my 65 Vette that I bought as a total from the insurance company, and it was $400 for a new frame and $455 for a complete "pressed" front end.......
From: going faster miles an hour...with the radio on in browns mills new jersey
Should you choose to have your frame acid dipped, be prepared for every rusted out spot to end up twice as big as it now. Don't get too discouraged, it can be fixed. An excellent book showing lots of frame repair is "Chevrolet Corvette Restoration Guide" by Lindsay Porter. The book is published by Motorbooks International.
'Old Blue' got a backdated '79 parts counter frame in 1991 for a total cost around $3.5k. His frame was similar in condition to yours. Of course we replaced brake lines, gas line, rear crossmember mounts, trailing arm bushings, etc. and generally cleaned and painted most of the chassis related hardware. Never regretted doing so.
thx for your opinions and advice, if $$ was not an issue I would order a new frame and ship it over to Europe (even would consider the SS one with C4 suspension).
If I read the article at Rowleys the reapirs done there are to much worse situation.
Another method of finding how bad your frame is without punching a bunch of holes in it is to use a small to medium hammer. Years ago I repaired my share of rusted out frames. Although it is far from scientific, after awhile you kind of get an ear for the right ringing sound. Try an area that is pretty clean and then try an area that has a good deal of rust. You will find the sections with a decent layer of rust on the inside will have more of a thud than a ring. I used to do this more when I was asked to restore cars with painted frames that I did not want to damage. It is not fool proof but it helped me avoid gettting knee deep in projects that I would have regretted later on.-Jim
After having my frame dipped at a company in Ft. Worth, Texas (the process was actually called "metal cleaning"), I used an undercoating kit from Eastwood to spray the inside of all the rails and crossmembers. The kit came with a long spray wand and selection of tips that point different directions and did a nice job. There are enough holes and access points to get good covereage inside the entire frame. I've heard of some people that tape over all the holes, stand the frame on end, pour in undercoating, and move the frame around to spread the undercoating. The spray kit worked nicely for me. Use your favorite solvent to clean any overspray and spray the exterior with epoxy based primer as a base coat for good exterior protection.
Your frame looks worse than mine did before having it dipped. It will look a lot worse if you sandblast or dip it. I ended up putting a new rear half on mine. Even though the front half of my frame was fine, if they had reproduced complete new frames back then like they do now, I probably would have gone that route.
I repaired my frame myself. Paragon and possibly others have repair kits for the common rust areas. I sandblasted the frame first to clean the outside and look at the overall condition. Then I identified the areas needing attention. In my case, I replaced the rear transmission mount, the rear two body mounts, a 2 foot section of the driver's side rear frame rail, and almost a dozen cracks in the front area of the frame. After fixing everything, I had it straightened (it was twisted over 1 1/2") and sandblasted a second time before painting. If I had available locally, I would have acid dipped to get the inside of the frame cleaned, but that's not available in my area.
Here are a couple pics.