daddyboats

Recently purchased a 66 coupe that has the heater hoses by-passing the core. Any logical reason for this, or should I assume there is a leak somewhere, and plan on replacing the heater core? Should I hook it up first, and take a chance on flooding the interior? The vehicle was in Florida for about 30 yrs. The person I bought it from got it that way. Thanks for any suggestions.

Dave

vintagecorvette

My guess is that the heater core is junk. I would not waste my time or antifreeze hooking it up. You could however drain the antifreeze, hook it up then pressure test it.

oWEN

justatoy

ITS A LEAKER

Plasticman

As you are probably aware, coupes can get a bit "warm". A previous owner may of bypassed the heater so that it did not add any "extra" heat to the cockpit. I would not automatically assume the core is junk, especially since it came from Florida where heat is needed sparingly.

You won't know until you check it out. Just be prepared for leakage.

Goor luck,
Plasticman

hogan64

I installed a bypass and didn't have any leaks. It really helped with my 64' always blowing hot air at my feet.

Trophy Blue

My heater core was bypassed as well. After I replaced it, I found out that the old one never leaked. You should replace it anyway. Remember Murphy's Law!!

ctjackster

a forum member just by-passed his heater core for this reason, do not simply reattach the heater core to the colling system and run it, unless you fancy coolant in the passenger footwell.

mikem350

Bubba was in a hurry to get back to drivin his vette! My 66 (Florida car) had the heater disconnected since 67!

To keep maximum radiator (engine) cooling don't use a loop of hose in/out from the heater ports. The idea is to keep as much water flowing thru the radiator, and not bypassing it.

Plug the ports until you connect the core.

Plasticman

On my 70 Vette (350/350 engine), I put in a vacuum operated heater "shut-off" valve to limit the heat coming into the cockpit (which effectively blocks coolant flow through the heater core). However, the first time I tried it, the engine temp went through the roof. Open the valve, temp goes down to normal, close it again, temp skyrockets. I eventually replaced the water pump, and the temps stayed normal (valve open or closed). Can't say my experience was normal, but just something to be aware of when blocking the heater ports (since a lot of full size Chevy's came stock with these vacuum operated heater shut off valves).

Plasticman

7vettes

That's exactly why I bypassed the heater on my '64 Coupe when we lived in Florida. I never needed the heater there.

If it got "chilly", I had a semi light-weight jacket that I'd wear. I also needed to replace the foam at the fresh air vent grilles to adequately seal out the "chilly" air.

1Redctoo

My heater core was bypassed in my 66 vert when I bought it . Finally last year I decided to tear the old core out and see why . Well, it had a leak so , wanting everything on the car to work properly I installed a new one . One problem ..........HOT ! With the core hooked up the passenger side foot area cooks . Im probably going to bypass it before summer rolls around .

daddyboats

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it. I think I will probably replace the core, since I am restoring the car...and I could've used some heat when I last drove it in December.

Thanks, Dave

Oriondriver

How do you plug the ports? My heater core is currently bypassed and the in hose is just looped into the out hose...

Thanks
Scott

JohnZ

That'll work fine - it's no different than having them connected to the heater core.

66427-450

works, but looks a little odd.... another option is to flush it out with clean water, then use compressed air to push all the water out/dry it. Then just use black plastic push-in plugs to keep foreign material out.