I went out to start my ’66 Vette and when I turned the key, the interior lights dimmed to the point of almost going out (door was open), the clock second hand started to go backwards and there was a repeating clicking from the starter area that continued as long as I held the key on. Stopped turning the key and everything returned to normal. Tried again, same thing happened.

Now, I had some warning that there may be a problem but I am not sure it is related. For the past several weeks, sometimes when I go to start the car, all I get on the first turn or two is a single click. Sort of like when the starter solenoid overheats…but in this case, the car has been sitting all night so heat was not a problem. Like I said, this would happen 50% of the time but after one or two attempts, it would start as normal. Do you think the two things are related? And, is my current problem sounding like the solenoid or the starter…or…?

James

 

Sounds like you have a bad cell in you battery. I would get a tester and check the voltage on the battery. Having a bad cell will cause the battery to be good one time when you try to start the car and bad the next time.

 

Could be the battery. Could be loose or dirty battery cable connections.

Turn the key to "start" and blow the horn at the same time. If the horn goes off or very weak, you can about bet you have low battery voltage.

 

Sounds like a battery cable problem. Unfortunately, I've experienced this too. Although the battery posts look clear of any corrosion, there may be some minor amount of it under the cable covering, just out of sight. It might be enough to cause the intermittent problem you're describing. Check it out. A simple thing to do.

 

check the ground cable

 

Hi Sartana,

IMHO, the very first thing to check would be the integrity of the battery cable connectors with that of the battery terminal connection posts.

Remove battery cable connectors from the battery, roll-up some sandpaper into a tube, insert same into cable connector and rotate sandpaper tube so as to expose and clean off any oxide that may have been on the inside surface of the connector interface.

Then take more sandpaper to clean off any oxide from the exterior surface of each battery terminal post.

If your battery has 'inspection covers,' so as to add distilled water if needed, remove them to make sure battery cells are filled to the correct level.

It is important to understand that when measuring the battery voltage with a voltmeter will provide a 'false' positive result. Why, you may ask?? Because the voltmeter does not draw sufficient current from the battery to determine whether or not the battery is capable of providing hundreds of amps to start the engine.

Remember that any battery has an internal resistance associated with it. When battery is fully charged, the internal resistance is very small in value, ie, 0.015 to 0.025 ohms. On the other hand, when battery is discharged, it's internal resistance is comparatively very high, ie, 1.2 to 1.9 ohms, thereby reducing it's capability to dump out high current even though it may have sufficient current to illuminate light bulbs because the light bulb resistance is greater than the battery internal resistance.

Once you have removed all oxides from battery cable connectors and battery terminal posts, and filled the battery cells with distilled water to correct level, and the engine starting problem remains, then do the following:

Engage the help from a friend/person. Get your voltmeter out ... place voltmeter leads to battery terminals ... attempt to start engine ... if voltmeter displays low voltage, ie, much less than 12 volts ... your battery needs to be replaced.

If battery voltage only changes by a small differential and the starter motor 'clicks' as you have described ... then place the (+) voltmeter lead at the other end of the positive battery cable where it connects to the starter motor. Attempt to start engine again ... if voltmeter registers low voltage ... one or both battery cables are defective or the termination of the negative battery cable needs to be cleaned up.

Okay, after performing all the above steps and the starter motor continues to 'click,' check out the starter and/or solenoid as the problem is likely to be there.

Hope this helps ... if not, let me know.

Pete .

 

Is your car an automatic? If so, I would not rule out the 40 year old nuetral safety switch giving up the ghost. High resistance in the switch and/or the 12 GA (purple) wires to/from the switch from the firewall area can present those symptoms -- with exception of the deal with your clock.

 

Maybe you've stumbled on how to turn back the hands of time.

Dan

 

Well

You've had all day........... Does it start?

 

If you have a meter-check the impedance from the engine to the negative terminal on the battery-should be close to zero. Then check your frame to the neg terminal- should also be less than 1 ohm.

Richard

 

Try whacking the starter with a mallet. I used to have a car where the Bendix gear was a little wacko and would stick. Other than that it is probably a battery or grounds. Batteries only last a couple of years in Phoenix due to the heat-ski so we are constantly replacing them (if you have as many cars as I do , that is..) Try the mallet thing

You can save a lot of time with the meters and all by running jumper cables from another car - if it starts right up the battery est muerto..

Or the alternator est muerto - check the voltage meter when you get it going, it should be made to move with the throttle...

 

Did you get it to work?

 

James,
Two things I always recommend to anyone owning a collector car or a matter of fact owning any car period. First of all you should own a battery charger of at least 10 amps. This is a must. Secondly if you really want to be able to diagnose a battery problem and not guess as most people do it doesn't hurt to own a Milton Model #1260 type Battery Testor. This battery testor comes equipped with a load tester. Hook the two cables up to positive and negative on the battery, move the switch over to the side for 10 seconds and read the meter. A battery that won't start a car will bury the meter's needle to the left indicating a need for a charge or dead cells. This eliminates wondering if the problem is your solenoid or complete starter assembly. This is where the battery charger comes in. You really need to charge that battery up first after noticing a problem like you are having and then do the load test on the battery. Of course you should check your cables also for being clean and having a good connection to the starter solenoid and ground. With these 2 tools you will not become a guesser as to if your battery is bad or not. In 29 years of selling auto parts I have seen many a time when someone would buy a brand new battery that was not needed only to take it home, install it in the car and find that the brand new battery also went dead. All this wasted time to me is worth the money to purchase the two tools I mention here that will last you a lifetime of not having to guess again on any vehicle you own. Let us know how you made out.

If you charge your battery and it is good no dead cells I would say a new solenoid may be needed but there is a good chance it could be a cable problem. Sometimes the positive cable to the solenoid loosens up and needs to be retightened. If so don't over do it or you will crack the solenoid. Other then that check that ground cable. Good luck.

fred

 

I think he's either still out on a shopping spree buying all those high dollar diagnostic tools that he might use once in a lifetime. Either that or he got it started and he's long gone!

 

MikeM, I would have to say based on what I read you directed this post at me. Hope you got your big laugh! First of all who is talking about high dollar diagnostic tools here? A battery testor like the Milton #1260 could be bought at Harbor Freight for under $20 and a good 10amp battery charger maybe another $30. Wow $50 in total for a set of tools to be able to set yourself free from guessing anymore. And as far as maybe using these same tools once in a lifetime you must be joking. I use mine plenty with all the vehicles I own plus family vehicles. They paid for themselves hundreds of times over. As a matter of fact these tools also come in handy with the lawn tractor, Quad and other equipment with a battery that I own. Let me ask you a question do you own a Vette or a Vega? Based on how you spoke here in your post trying to make me look like an idiot like I am trying to make James and others spend high dollars in order to not be guessers anymore to their battery and starting problems makes me wonder. Makes me wonder what a person like you does when he needs to buy a part for his Vette (Vega) at todays prices. Boy your neighbors and friends must really hear you cry when that happens I am sure willing to bet.

fred

 

Watch it Mikester, someone did not get their coffee I never buy Chinese tools at Harbor Freight, I prefer to buy

I think he is out driving...

FFAS, I don't think anyone was pointing at you so calm yourself... Your solution is a good one but my mallet and jumper cable plan is not guessing and it is also immediate without waiting for the stores to open. Chill man, we're all in this together, even about wheels, right Mike-a-roo?

 

Given the informative post's to Sartana's original thread, one wonders why there is no response .

Also makes one wonder why to post constructive information to other than long-time and respected member's of this Forum .

Don't get me wrong here ... I'm neither a long time poster or a respected member of the remarkable group. But, when, rarely, I post an answer to an objective query I, and other folks, attempt to clearly provide detailed information so as to fully answer the question.

What am I missing here , with folks like Sartana??

Pete

 

Tintin, I only mentioned about Harbor Freight having a tool similiar to the Milton #1260 for under $20 to make a point here to MikeM's Quote: (I think he's either still out on a shopping spree buying all those high dollar diagnostic tools that he might use once in a lifetime). Yes the one sold at Harbor Freight is made in China and very inexpensive. I happen to own one and I also own a Milton #1260 for the last 25 years or so. A Milton #1260 could be had for maybe $60 or so today still not much money for what you get. Who knows maybe the Milton is also made in China now. Wouldn't surprise me. By the way I had my coffee this morning. I just didn't care for MikeM's remark in his post today right after mine which I still feel was pointed at me trying to make me look like a fool. I had nothing to gain here by giving this information out. Wasn't like I was trying to sell these items to James or any other person on this forum. I have put in 29 years now in the Automotive Parts Business. You come across many things related to automotive repair in that amount of time. I do 90% of my own work on my vehicles. I have had plenty of experience and I felt I was giving some good advice to someone who needed it. Wasn't trying to make anyone break the bank here in buying a couple of inexpensive tools that will save them a lot of headaches now and down the road on any vehicle they own.

fred

 

Fred, I was kidding you, I am not really trying to wind you up and I don't think Mike was either. Sorry Man I can see that you are a good source for help.

Say where is Sartana anyway? Did you fix it? The point to a response is to help everyone with the fix so that we can all say "Wow , yes I know that one! I read it was blah blah" so that we can all become better at maintaining these relics...

Sorry again Fred...

 

You attach way too much importance to yourself. I didn't have you in mind at all when I made my post. I do, however, find it amusing thinking about some people that spend more time "getting ready to go to work" than it actually takes to "do the work". especially a very simple task like the one first posted. You do seem to fall in that category, now that you mention it.

I did note however that in your particular situation you probably need a lot of diagnostic equipment. Anyone who has used his equipment to "bail himself out, literallly 100's of times" should probably be reviewing his automotive and yard equipment servicing process. You're having way too much trouble. Sounds like either faulty parts, inept technician or both.

I just simply wondered if the guy got his car started. That's all. I don't have any idea why you read more into it than that.