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70+ degrees here in Northeastern Pa. today. I'm realy getting itchy to go for a ride. As usual , I have some questions regarding my re-wiring project.
The car is a 63--cluster is a 65.
1. When I installed the new ignition switch, the only way the it would fit through the cluster means the key goes in upside down. It seems to turn OK, but that can't be right.
2. Brown wire , female connection. Diagram says it's a ground for the gauges. Where does it gound to?
3. Whats the trick with those two clips for the clock? I can't seem to find anything to clip them to. The back side of the dash center is flat. The car didn't come with a clock. Someone had put a c-4 logo where the clock was supposed to be. I hope a prior owner didn't remove something.
Any replies are greatly appreciated.
70+ degrees here in Northeastern Pa. today. I'm realy getting itchy to go for a ride. As usual , I have some questions regarding my re-wiring project.
The car is a 63--cluster is a 65.
1. When I installed the new ignition switch, the only way the it would fit through the cluster means the key goes in upside down. It seems to turn OK, but that can't be right.
2. Brown wire , female connection. Diagram says it's a ground for the gauges. Where does it gound to?
3. Whats the trick with those two clips for the clock? I can't seem to find anything to clip them to. The back side of the dash center is flat. The car didn't come with a clock. Someone had put a c-4 logo where the clock was supposed to be. I hope a prior owner didn't remove something.
Any replies are greatly appreciated.
I can only answer to the clock. If the back side of the center dash is flat, you're missing the piece of fiberglass that is the clock housing. I believe it's bonded to the center dash, the clock sets into it with the bezel fitting flush with the housing surface. The two studs on the rear of the clock pass through two holes in the missing piece of fiberglass, and the clips lock onto the studs holding the clock into position.
The car is a 63--cluster is a 65.
1. When I installed the new ignition switch, the only way the it would fit through the cluster means the key goes in upside down. It seems to turn OK, but that can't be right.
Can't help you there, that doesn't sound right. Looking at the switch from the back of the dash, there should be a light bulb at about the 1:30 pm position. If not, I bet the switch is in wrong.
2. Brown wire , female connection. Diagram says it's a ground for the gauges. Where does it gound to?
Ok, for a 65, there's a brown wire that connects to a capacitor for the radio. There's a similar gauge black wire that is the cluster ground, and it connects to a tab on the top of the cluster. Often the brown wire is connected to the ground tab by mistake.
3. Whats the trick with those two clips for the clock? I can't seem to find anything to clip them to. The back side of the dash center is flat. The car didn't come with a clock. Someone had put a c-4 logo where the clock was supposed to be. I hope a prior owner didn't remove something.
Any replies are greatly appreciated.
As described by Ron, the clips for the clock clip over the clock studs after they penetrate a housing that must be missing from your car. Here's a picture from my 65. You can see the holes at the 7 and 4 pm position. The studs on the clock go through those holes, then the clips go over the studs.
I'm definately screwed with the clock. My center opening doesn't have the support piece as shown in the picture. It's just a hole. I'll try to figure something out.
I might be screwed with the ground for the cluster too. The car came with one of those audio sound aftermarket units in it. it doesn't have the same type of connections that a factory units does. Could I attach the ground to the cross member under the dash?? If not where?
Re: the ignition switch, it has a flat spot at about 1 o'clock. This matches up with a flat spot in the cluster. When I insert it this way , it also matches up with the release button hole in the front. But the key only goes in upside down. Once again, it does appear to turn to the on and start positions OK. It just doesn't seem right.
I'm definately screwed with the clock. My center opening doesn't have the support piece as shown in the picture. It's just a hole. I'll try to figure something out.
Keep in mind that the light for the heater controls clips to that same housing that is missing on your car. You can see the slot for the clip at the 6 pm position. So, whatever you come up with needs to be metal becaus the heater control light gets it's ground from that missing housing. The missing housing gets it's ground from the clock housing when installed. The clock housing gets its ground from the ground wire that connects to the back of it.
Originally Posted by ren
Could I attach the ground to the cross member under the dash??
On my 65, the cross member under the dash is the source for the ground that goes to the cluster, but the cluster still needs to be grounded.
You could fabricate and run a dedicated ground wire from that cross member, to one of the small screws in the back of the cluster. I did that during testing while chasing my wiring issues last Fall.
As for your ignition switch - don't know what to tell you, but here's a picture of the one in my 65. That terminal that is folder over was eventually straightened before finishing the wiring.
Jeff,
Could I clip the female connector and splice in a wire that would run to the cross member and the dash?
Well, that BROWN wire you mentioned earlier, would not be a Ground wire if it were in my 65, it would be a hot wire. Can't speak for your 63.
But, I don't think your idea is the right one. Connecting a ground wire to your female connector, simply grounds the wiring harness to the cross member - you need to be grounding the cluster to the cross member.
My harness is for a 63 so I'm sure that there are a few differences from your 65. Doc ReBuild's diagram clearly shows the brown wire with one female connector and lists it as the grownd for the cluster. Before I cut the anything I'll double check the back of the radio to see if I can connect it there. If not, I'll do as I stated in my previous post. Based on what you're saying, shouldn't there be another ground?
My harness is for a 63 so I'm sure that there are a few differences from your 65. Doc ReBuild's diagram clearly shows the brown wire with one female connector and lists it as the grownd for the cluster. Before I cut the anything I'll double check the back of the radio to see if I can connect it there. If not, I'll do as I stated in my previous post. Based on what you're saying, shouldn't there be another ground?
Good to hear you've got the wiring diagram. That's why I keep qualifying my answers as to applying to my 65 - I have no idea what a 63 is wired like.
The factory ground circuit for my 65 is as follows:
Frame gives ground to the birdcage (and dash cross member) from the frame to the front left corner of the rocker through a ground strap
The dash cross member gives ground to the main dash wiring harness from the cross member to the harness through the 14 gauge wire running to the radio connector. That radio connector has a ground wire that comes back out of it and ends up on a tab at the top of the cluster. In the picture below (borrowed from another post on a different topic), you can see the little tab peeking out of the top of the cluster just to the left of the BRAKE light...
So, for the question about "another ground" - my 65 has a ground wire that connects to the cross member with the other end of the wire going into the radio connector. The radio connector has a ground wire coming back out of it into the main harness which ends up at that tab on the cluster.
Did you connect any wires to the top of your cluster in that location?
No. There didn't appear to be any that should be attached. The cluster is in, and the only wires that aren't connected are the one's for the steering column( install later) and the light for the ignition. Your pictures are great. I'm beginning to feel that I bit off more than I can chew. The fact that my car has mixed componants is just one problem after another. It might have been easier if I ordered a 65 harness.
Well, I think it's possible that Doc Rebuild's wiring diagram may be wrong. According to mine, for a '63, the brown wire is for the radio capacitor. The ground wire for the cluster, as well as the clock, is black with a white stripe.
I will re=check everything again tomorrow. Gotta go for tonight. It's almost 11:30 and I'm up at 5. Thanks for the replies. I add to the thread tomorrow.
DO NOT connect that brown wire to anything except the radio capacitor - it's HOT any time the key is on; if you ground it, you'll let all the smoke out of the wiring.
Well, I think it's possible that Doc Rebuild's wiring diagram may be wrong. According to mine, for a '63, the brown wire is for the radio capacitor. The ground wire for the cluster, as well as the clock, is black with a white stripe.
No, his is not wrong, at least not the ones I have. Other diagrams that blindly follow the AIM, and the AIM itself, is wrong in a couple of spots, wiring-wise. Re-check the terminal on the diagram that you think is marked "cluster ground" and tell us what color the wire is leading to it.
I have his diagram right in front of me (albeit for a 65), the "cluster ground" terminal is a single black wire. There are no brown wires that are marked ground.
DO NOT connect that brown wire to anything except the radio capacitor - it's HOT any time the key is on; if you ground it, you'll let all the smoke out of the wiring.
From working on cars, computers and cellular equipment, if you let the smoke out or break the mirrors, stuff stops working...
Regrettably, I wasn't able to spend too much time on the car today. I did see brown wire that is on the left side of the cluster and I can't see where it's supposed to go.This wire is a female and has a chrome clip on it. If the cluster should be grounded in the locations in 62jeffs picture, I'll have to remove the cluster again. I'm really more concerned about the missing piece from the dash center. I've seen them advertised for around $100. I'm assuming that a new piece would include the mounting bracket for the clock. I think that if you replace the center piece, you also have to remove the entire dash. Not sure that I'm up to that. Also, I removed the ignition switch again today and once again , the only way that it fits, the is upside down. I really getting frustrated. Not that I thought re-wiring would be easy. I just felt that if I had the proper diagrams and took my time, I could get it done. Every step of the way, there have been problems. Most of the issues were related to the mixture of mid-year componants. I'm almost ready to raise the white flag. I'm going to try to call a few local "vette" guys tomorrow. I don't even know them that well. Just hope that they can help me out of this mess. Tune in tomorrow for the next episode.
If the cluster should be grounded in the locations in 62jeffs picture, I'll have to remove the cluster again.
During my many, many tests last Fall while chasing a fuse issue, I learned that with the cluster mounting screws removed and pulled forward towards the driver a bit, I could easily get my hand up to the grounding tab on the top of the cluster housing.
So, IF your cluster has that tab there, you shouldn't have to remove the cluster in order to connect a ground wire to it.
You mention a brown wire with a chrome clip on it. Would it be possible to post a photo of that chrome clip? It doesn't sound familiar.