hogan64

I need some direction with my winter project for the 64. I WANT MORE POWER !!! This is NOT a numbers matching car and I could care less about “original” appearance. The person who did the restore must have run into a bad frame because the frame is from a 67. I am really thinking about just putting in a new crate motor in the car and selling the 327. I have never rebuilt a motor before, so I am a bit apprehensive about rebuilding the motor I have. The current motor does run pretty good but Lars(on his visit to Detroit, Thanks Lars) says that the rings must have not seated properly because there is “oil blowby” at only 4000 mi. It will blow a good cloud of smoke on full acceleration. I am thinking on buying a Bill Mitchell 415 or 427 SB short block right now and going from there. I could also wait until the spring and buy the full 415 or 427 crate motor. I do like the 2 year warranty and dyno testing of the full motor.

The car is a driver and I may want to put Vintage Air in the car at some point.

The car:

1964 Roadster
’65 327 “870” Block
LT1 Aluminum Intake
“462” casting 2.02 heads
Holly replacement 650cfm Carb
Unknown internals. Engine was represented as 365HP. It’s not.
3.70 rear with M21

My questions are as follows.

1. If I buy the Motown shortblock can I use any parts from my existing motor? water pump, intake, heads, Aircleaner, ect ?

2. Can I fit this motor under a SB hood?

3. Will the Motown motor bolt up to the M21 trans?

4. I have stock size tires on the car with KO’s. Do I have any chance of keeping the rearend/trans together with the power of this engine?


Maybe I’m totally out in left field with this combo, but I don’t want to spend a bunch of money and then find it’s not enough motor. Is it too much motor for my driver and should I be looking at 383’s or something like that?

Thanks for any replys,

BlueShark29

Although I have the correct numbers matching engines, etc. for all of my cars, I have a different setup in each one, to create a driver out of each one and run on pump unleaded gasoline (93 octane). Check my sig for homepage.
My latest change was the '65 Coupe. I dropped a complete ZZ4 crate motor in it, 3310 holley and I am running the stock 3.55 posi rear end and M21 Muncie. This is a very nice motor, with the factory 400 ft.lbs at the flywheel, especially with the small block "U-bolts" on the half shafts. My factory side pipes even bolt up to the L-98 aluminum heads that come on it, and the ZZ4 comes with a Chevrolet factory warranty.
For a little more (big block style) torque, the 383 that I put in my '81 Vette takes care of that. I also put a 700R4 in it. An automatic takes some of the shock out from transferring to the rear end and "U-bolt" on the half shafts.
The 400 small block in my "65 Convertible is just a big block in small block package.
All of these motors will fit under a small block hood with factory spec clearance. A big block will require a big block hood for clearance.
With stock size tires and very much torque, you will be spinning the tires more than driving on them. Each of my cars combinations have not problem spinning the tires in any gear. '65 Convertible - 215/65 16", '65 Coupe - 215/65 15" (KO's), '81 Coupe - 255/60 15" (Factory Aum. wheels).
The two '65's are using the original Alum. radiator, and the '81 is using the original radiator, and all have A/C with no overheating problems. (I live in Florida weather, too).
You would need to change the radiator for a big block (to keep from overheating).
If you still retained the '64 frame, you would also have to modify the front crossmember for a big block, but since you stated that it is a '67 frame, it already has the indentation for clearance at the front for a big block engine.
I hope some of these items helps you with your questions and decision.

kellsdad

With regard to keeping it under a small block hood - I've discovered that some small block combinations will NOT fit under a small block hood. For example, a 350 crate engine with Fast Burn heads and a medium high rise intake will not fit. I've been struggling to find a combination of intake, carb and air cleaner that will fit beneath the hood of my 63.
Tom

MasterDave

To make a HiPo combo intake fit under the stock hood; Weiand Stealth Intake, Holly 650/750 DP carb, Edelbrock triangle air cleaner. On the air cleaner....grind .10" off the bottom (where it contacts your carb) and put a 1/2" deep dent in the upper screen on the right hand side so you can close the hood. That's the ONLY way I could close my hood at all. Sheesh!! :D

hogan64

Thanks for the help. I want to stay with the SB as it will be a much easier swap. I did think hard about a BB after finding out the frame was from a 67(with the indent). I just don't want to go through changing the hood and such. It sounds like I won't have too many problems fitting most SB's under the hood if I pay attention to the intake and air cleaner. I think I'll start calling some of the engine builders in the Detroit area and post my findings. I plan on changing the engine and exhaust system over the winter. There are just so many decisions to make. ZZ4, 383, 400, 415, 427 SB's.. What exhaust system ?? Chambered, Flowmasters, Stock and of course Side Pipes (love them Side Pipes!!). Keep any suggestions coming, things to be aware and beware of, and I will keeping searching..

JohnZ

Your tires will be your "safety valve" for the drivetrain, as they will smoke before anything expensive gives up the ghost. If you go a lot fatter on tires or run slicks, you could have some problems. Sounds like a fun project!