Brakes Locking Every time I let the 64 set for a week or two ,the brakes lock up and pull like hell After I get going it come out of it ,but the brakes feel hard also Thanks allot in advance

 

Sounds like you have a rusty calipers cylinder. I had the same problem and replaced the front brakes rotors and calipers. It is a tough job if you have the original rotors on, you have to drill and chisel the rivets out to get them off. I also replaced the hoses while I had everything apart, they had cracks in the rubber. I would not take any chances driving your car anymore until you fix it. The 65's have a single cylinder brake system if you lose brake pressure from a failure you don’t have brakes and the emergency brake is not that good, unless you spent a lot of time getting that up to specs

 

Flush system and look for signs of rust. If there is rust replace the entire system. If fluid is reasonably clean try changing just the front rubber hoses and carefully test drive the car. They tend to swell up on the inside and when you step on the brake the force exerted by the MC pushes the fluid through but it becomes trapped once inside the Caliper. It will slowly release back to normal. Al W.

 

Replace the hoses first. Even if they look fine on the outside, the inside can be deteriorating and causing the problem you describe

 

Since the 64's had drum brakes(and I assume yours still has them) answers about rusty caliplers won't do you any good. I have the same problem that I've been trying to solve for years. I rebuilt the entire brake system. New drums, shoes, springs, adjusters, hoses, master cylinder and PB booster and it still pulls to the left most of the time(90%). I don't have the problem until I get above 45 mph and then it will pull hard to the left. The power boost makes it even more touchy. If you come up with a answer, please share it.

 

I sometimes have the same issue. I'll be watching this one.

 

I had severe pulling (to the right, in my case) in my '59 (original drum brakes), and it turned out to be due to a very small amount of "oozing" brake fluid seepage out of one of the wheel cylinders. The very tiny amount of brake fluid was causing the linings in that brake to soften and get grabby. Wheel cylinder replacement solved the problem. To be honest, I was skeptical when the shop told me this, since it wasn't obvious by looking at the brakes. (You couldn't see any actual brake fluid - just the kind of seepage "grime" that you get on a bad shock absorber.) They also replaced the shoes at the same time, so I guess I can't swear that the root cause was the seeping wheel cylinder, but in any case the problem was gone after replacing both the wheel cylinders and shoes.

Speaking of grabby brakes, I remember in 1984 or 85, I "inherited" a '68 Olds Delmont 88, when my great-uncle passed away. It had power-boosted drum brakes, that were incredibly grabby/touchy. I lived with it for a year, basically training my braking foot to be very gentle, etc. But it was hard to brake somewhat quickly without overdoing it and locking up the brakes. But then the master cylinder went out. In replacing the master cylinder I realized that although the new and old parts looked basically the same, the plunger arm was slightly different. With the new master cylinder all of the brake grabbiness was gone. Apparently my great uncle had previously put in a master cylinder that was almost the right part, but not quite. His old car was a strange combination of willingness to spend money on certain things, but over-frugalness on other things. It had a 455 in it, but with a single 2-bbl carb (for "better" gas mileage, I guess). When he cracked the turn signal plastic covers on both front corners of the car, he had grafted on some generic turn signals using angle brackets.

 

There is quite a bit of similarity with this problem whether the vehicle has Calipers or Cylinders. A little diagnosing will find the problem. As to a car that exhibits a pulling upon braking mostly at speed, the same causes will effect this but are magnified by the speed that the vehicle is traveling when braking is applied. Drums that are cut over Specs. can sometimes be the culprit. Dissimilar Brake Shoes. (Yes, Bubba does change only one side on occasion.) It's cheaper! Maybe only one Brake line was changed out in the past. The list goes on and on. A detailed list of attempted cures will help us help you. Al W.

 

I'm not sure I understand the symptoms but I'm thinking you're saying the brakes are stuck and the wheels do not want to roll on your initial start after sitting for a week or two. Then, after you roll out of the garage, the brakes will grab/pull for the next few stops. If this is the case, your wheel cylinders are sticking and holding your brake shoes against the drums. They then will sometimes rust and bond themselves to the brake drums.

 

It's probably a corroded wheel cylinder; when did you last change brake fluid?

 

I think I will change the brake fluid I see there is new hoses on front and I pulled the right wheel and things look good ,but not much drag on wheel ,not has much as left so I am tightening that up.Raining like hell now Thanks to all and I will keep you informed It may be awhile

 

Are you adjusting the brakes the way it says in the book? Adjust shoes till the wheel won't move then back off seven clicks.

 

The 64 has self adjusting brakes and there is no slot in the backing plate to adjust the star wheel. You have to adjust the shoes so the drum slides over the shoes with no drag and then let the self adjusters do their job. I wish they were adjustable like on my 56.

 

Punch out the slots in the drums! Al W.

 

Put the car up on jackstands, go around and turn all the wheels, if one hard to turn or you can't that your stuck drum or calpier. If all the wheels turn, have someone put on the brakes and try to turn all the wheels, if one turns that your stuck drum or calpier. I would replace the hoses if there old, there at cheap to replace if youre able to due the work yourself.

 

I adjusted the right front brake and it did not pull last SaT. I have let it set for a week and i will take it out tomorrow and we will see if the brakes are locked up

 

Hello

I had this problem in my 1963 Corvette. I could not figure it out. I was told to replace my brake shoes on my corvette. Mine were over 15 years old and I guess they "deterioate" over time. I thought he was crazy. I figured I had nothing to lose and it worked!!! Why dont know...

just my .02

 

I just went through a pulling issue with my 63. Installed new Bendix wheels cylinders and shoes and cured the problem. My cylinder on the lest front was junk and was only pushing the front shoe and causing a major pull. Problem solved after replacement.

You might try pulling the wheel off, and have a friend pull the drum back slightly so you he can see the engagement of the shoes. GENTLY apply pressure to the brake pedal and have him tell you what he sees. Maybe your cylinders are not working properly either.

 

 

I took the 64 out today and the brakes will need more work. I think it is in the back I will bleed and pull all wheels Has anybody tried that home made bleeder that has a thick piece of metal and a piece of rubber under it and you put an air fitting in it and open the bleeder and give it about 10psi.