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I replaced the light pull mechanism and for the first time my dash lights work I replaced the dash skins and took off the instrument cluster, I put it back on and all the gauges worked Today I loosened it and now my fuel gauge and water temp. gauge are pegged to the right (at about 5 o'clock). The funny thing is that I even disconnected the fuel gauge and it did not budge from that position - what can it be? The dash is not yet installed, on Friday I have to connect the tach and the speedo
Also, under the dash on the drivers side there is a 2 inch long thing-a-ma-gig with 2 wires that end with a flat metal insert - have no idea what that was - has never been connected but looks "original" with its little holder that keeps it in place. Could it be a resiistor??
lastly what wires are for the blower I may have not connected it.
On the 63 cluster there is a male spade connection at the top of the cluster that is used as a ground. A "Black" not "Dark Brown" will be attached there.
Not as sure this is the way yours is!!!!
Gldnkngt can give more input on how these things work.
Good Luck,
Andy
PS Make sure to check electrical connections on the back of the guages while the dash is out. Found some of mine loose and oxidized.
Last edited by AColbe01; Jul 11, 2007 at 11:08 PM.
I replaced the light pull mechanism and for the first time my dash lights work I replaced the dash skins and took off the instrument cluster, I put it back on and all the gauges worked Today I loosened it and now my fuel gauge and water temp. gauge are pegged to the right (at about 5 o'clock). The funny thing is that I even disconnected the fuel gauge and it did not budge from that position - what can it be? The dash is not yet installed, on Friday I have to connect the tach and the speedo
Also, under the dash on the drivers side there is a 2 inch long thing-a-ma-gig with 2 wires that end with a flat metal insert - have no idea what that was - has never been connected but looks "original" with its little holder that keeps it in place. Could it be a resiistor??
lastly what wires are for the blower I may have not connected it.
Almost there....... so close...... Alex
As far as the gauges pegging, a couple wires probaly did get crossed up or short together, but you should be OK. Those gauges don't fry that easily. When you hook up the power and the grounds correctly they should go back to where they're supposed to read. Once they peg, they stay there til a signal tells them to do something different. If they don't go back when the proper 12 volts and ground are connected, then you need to think gauge problem. And Andy's right on about the ground tab for the cluster. The ground wire is black, and goes on the quick connect tab above the tach.
Pulled the instrument cluster out again (steering coulumn, etc., opened up the back panel of the guages that didn't work ; one for the fuel and one for water temp. diaasaaembled them as far as I could - down to the rivets that I did not touch - the gas needle was "heavy" and the water temp would spin around just by blowing on the needle - I had already visually inspected the fuses and then decided to test them with a tester - one did not work!!! THE FUSE!!!! I did clean the inside of the lenses.... I also numbered the wires and the connections for "next time". Now will re-install - a 30 secound job turned into 3 hours
Pulled the instrument cluster out again (steering coulumn, etc., opened up the back panel of the guages that didn't work ; one for the fuel and one for water temp. diaasaaembled them as far as I could - down to the rivets that I did not touch - the gas needle was "heavy" and the water temp would spin around just by blowing on the needle - I had already visually inspected the fuses and then decided to test them with a tester - one did not work!!! THE FUSE!!!! I did clean the inside of the lenses.... I also numbered the wires and the connections for "next time". Now will re-install - a 30 secound job turned into 3 hours
Will post pictures today.
Know your frustration, had a diaphram in a $40.00 transmission vac modulator go bad and cause me a $400 head job. Thought I had a broken ring, oddly I noticed the red fluid in the intake! 3800 engine in an Oldsmobile 98.
Only folks that never make mistakes are about 6 ft. under!
Pulled the instrument cluster out again (steering coulumn, etc., opened up the back panel of the guages that didn't work ; one for the fuel and one for water temp. diaasaaembled them as far as I could - down to the rivets that I did not touch - the gas needle was "heavy" and the water temp would spin around just by blowing on the needle - I had already visually inspected the fuses and then decided to test them with a tester - one did not work!!! THE FUSE!!!! I did clean the inside of the lenses.... I also numbered the wires and the connections for "next time". Now will re-install - a 30 secound job turned into 3 hours
Will post pictures today.
As far as the gas gauge goes, the needle should be "heavy", as you described it. The temp. gauge ideally should be the same. This is due to a damping fluid in the meter head and in the temp gauge it has apparently dried out. It can be re-damped, but with all wiring working correctly, it's often not an issue as the temp gauge changes so slowly. If it were the fuel gauge that was "happy" It would sway back and forth every time you took a corner or accelerated or braked, changing as the gas sloshed in the tank. You should be OK with what you have.