It's hard to tell from the pictures but there is a trapered seat to go with the trapered lug nut. ctjackster has the right idea but it makes me wonder why these wheels are being sold with the lug nut I have???

I'm going to break the code on this if for no other reason than to prove what a POS product this is.

 

Mr. D
You have lug nuts for a stamped steel wheel. My 67 bolt ons use this lug nut.
CUL Jim

 

Actually, if you do have the tapered seat, those in the picture may work for you as they are also tapered (not stepped), but with the extended threads for the reach you need.

 

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I just went out to look at my bolt on's and the ones that are pictured above are the correct lug nuts. These came with mine from Virginia Vettes thru Corvette America when I ordered them. You definitely have the incorrect lug nuts for your application.

Steve

 

Steve, that would sure explain my whole problem here. I will call Corvette America tomorrow and check on this.

 

Now that I see your wheel photo, the problem (and the solution) is clear. The lug nuts they gave you are the "long" special tapered ones for use to attach the adapter to the hub for REAL knock-offs (so the KO wheels can't be mis-indexed to the adapters).

Your wheels take a special circular long-shank lug nut with internal threads that fills the gap between the O.D. of the stud and the I.D. of the 1/2" hole in the wheel. The dummies sent you the wrong lug nuts.

 

John,below is what Corvette America has posted on there web site for Bolt On Knock Offs, its P/N 1617 and says to see note #3. Still trying to get hold of them.

 

If they've been shipping lug nuts per note 3, they've put a lot of liability in the field.

 

I have been following this thread carefully as I just received my bolt on's yesterday for my '66 from VaVettes.

I have the same lug nuts as Mr. D. I looked at the bore for the studs in the wheel and there is not room for the stepped lug nut mentioned above (or it would have to be so thin as to be useless). They must have changed the diameter of the bore and started using the longer standard looking nuts.

However, I have the same concern as Mr.D. One rear wheel on the car has studs that only protrude about 21/32" from the face of the rotor, and I count about 3 3/4 turns of their special lug nut until tight, which seem insufficient.

My other 3 wheels have about 15/16" exposed with rotor installed, giving me 8 turns of the special lug nut until tight with the alum. wheel, which I think should be OK.

Using my ralleys with standard lug nut, the one rear has no threads exposed (about flush), the 3 other wheels, about 1/4" of threads are exposed after tightening.

Can you replace the rear lug studs without removing the spindle?

I really love these cars.

Ralph.

 

Has anyone measured the hole ID for the lug nut yet?

Scaling off MrD's photo, it is just larger than 11/16, which is correct to accept a standard size shank mag wheel lug nut.

 

There's no way on earth a tapered lug nut is safe with those wheels (photos in post #16); those wheels are machined EXACTLY the same way as my earlier repro bolt-ons, and they require a deep-shank internally-threaded cylindrical lug nut, with a hardened flat washer (which fits in the machined recess around the hole). There is obvious clearance between the O.D. of the lug stud and the I.D. of the hole, no taper at the top of the hole to match the taper on the lug nut (which is the interface point where wheel registration and clamping force is developed with a tapered lug nut), the wheel doesn't even touch the lug stud, and acceleration or braking torque is going to bend or break the lug studs. I wouldn't drive the car ten feet with the lug nuts they sent you.

Maybe they have a later wheel that's machined differently with a taper to accept those lug nuts, but your wheels will NOT work with them. I've dealt with CA before on wheels, and I was appalled at their lack of engineering knowledge.

 

My repro bolt ons use the washer JohnZ mentioned. I didn't think to include it my photo.
CUL Jim

 

I just measured the hole in the wheels and it is 9/16". There is a taper machined in the wheel to match the taper of the lug nuts. It is possible you could not see the taper in the photos.

John, I am not sure if this info changes your analysis, but it appears they have made some changes in the later wheels over the earlier ones. I am not sure how this system differs from the taper on steel rally wheels/lug nuts and these, other than these wheels are aluminum.

In any event, I need to install some longer studs on one of my rear wheels. Can I replace the studs without complete disassembly?

Ralph

PS: My wheel boxes are labeled as manufactured 10-9-2006.

 

I got my wheels from VaVettes (May??) last year and I have the same long style lug nuts that Mr. D has.. I don't remember having any issues and thought that the installers didn't mention anything.. My car on the other hand has been at the body shop since September getting painted so I can't look.

Now that I look at them, I have to agree with John that this could be very bad indeed.. I think we have to get more data from others that have these wheels and spank CA if need be..

/joe

 

Are they really tapered? If so, see my post #23 before you change the studs.

 

Thanks Toddalin.

The seat in the wheel is definitely tapered. But with a 9/16 hole and a 7/16 stud, there isn't much room for the extended sleeve type nut. Barely a 1/16 on each side. I think the extended sleeve nuts need a bigger bore hole. But what do I know.

I'm sure we will figure this out sooner or later.

Ralph.

 

Any response from the supplier yet?

 

If the interior hole is only 9/16" you may not find anything. These need a 0.61" hole (a little over 5/8")

 

I picked up some new studs at NAPA today. They are the 1.750" ones that John Z. says are standard. They are at least 1/4" longer than the bastard one's (they have an "R" stamped in the end of them if that means anything) installed on one of my rear spindles.

Looks like it is time to take out my emergency brake shoes and get to work replacing the studs. Boy, I love to mess with those brake shoes.

Thanks Toddalin for your research.

Ralph.

 

"R" for right-hand thread. Some vehicles (e.g., older Chryslers) actualy had both left and right-hand threads on the two different sides of the vehicles. This is for the same reason that the real Corvete knock-offs had right and left-hand threads.