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I have the dreaded electrical problem. First everything worked on the car last week. I hooked up the radio capacitor and the cigarette lighter bulb I do not think it has anything to do with this problems but what do I know. My right blinker does not work and my right brake lights also . I have power to the bulb and I have parking lights. I have tried 3 bulbs and no luck, I do not know how to check for ground on the blinker I know about the tail light grounds but I know they are good ,I just put my bumpers on in June . I have all tail lights ,I have no blinkers on the right side front or rear and no brake lights on the right side Help I was going somewhere tomorrow but I can not with out brake lights. Also does both back lights blink with the blinker on
I have the dreaded electrical problem. First everything worked on the car last week. I hooked up the radio capacitor and the cigarette lighter bulb I do not think it has anything to do with this problems but what do I know. My right blinker does not work and my right brake lights also . I have power to the bulb and I have parking lights. I have tried 3 bulbs and no luck, I do not know how to check for ground on the blinker I know about the tail light grounds but I know they are good ,I just put my bumpers on in June . I have all tail lights ,I have no blinkers on the right side front or rear and no brake lights on the right side Help I was going somewhere tomorrow but I can not with out brake lights. Also does both back lights blink with the blinker on
Check the wire block connections on the engine side of the firewall that are plugged into the rear of the fuse box. There are two retangular plugs there that contain the wires of all the things your having trouble with. Push down on the clip on top and pull to release them. Make sure everything inside the plugs are corrosion free and that the connections are tight. Use an emery board (fingernail file) or a wire brush to clean up connections on both connectors as well as the fuse box side on the firewall. This area is a common place for problems.
Also an ohm meter will NOT register a "0" on a good bulb. Place one contact on the side of the bulb and one on the solder dot on the bottom. You should get a reading or the element is burned out. Do this on both solder dots separately to test a two element bulb. Set the meter on 5 or 10 and you should get a reading or the bulb is no good. Hope this helps...good luck!!
Check the curved multiple connector from the turn signal switch on the steering column harness where it connects to the instrument panel harness; the same wire from that connector feeds the RH brake light filament, and the RH front and rear turn signal filaments. Your grounds are OK or your parking and tail lights wouldn't work. Also check the multiple connector above the driver's side kickpad for continuity on both sides - that wire goes through that connector too.
John i will check all of them ,but is there one certain one that it would be ? Also could it be in the turn signal switch You know i hit that working under the dash
This morning I had RR brake lights and i tried the Rh blinker and the brake lights when out ,than i turned the steering wheel and now i have brake lights but still no blinker or Rf parking light So i think it must be up in the steering wheel wires what do i look for and what do you think i may need to order Thanks allot i do not know what i would do without you guys You can not get anybody to help unless you want to wait for weeks for them to show up
Check the curved multiple connector from the turn signal switch on the steering column harness where it connects to the instrument panel harness; the same wire from that connector feeds the RH brake light filament, and the RH front and rear turn signal filaments. Your grounds are OK or your parking and tail lights wouldn't work. Also check the multiple connector above the driver's side kickpad for continuity on both sides - that wire goes through that connector too.
Check the wires in the round plug at the turning indicator harness where it goes through the fiberglass by the headlight. The wires get corroded at the terminals in this area and can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. My '64 had this problem and going though and cleaning and soldering these wires to their connector terminals cured it. Also make sure the connector terminals are clean.
It looks like it is in the head light switch I did not have either front parking light ,so I pulled the light switch out and turned it a few times and etc and everything worked .Than I pushed it back in and pulled it out for parking lights and they did not work ,did it again and they work .You get the picture. I saw something about taking the rod out of the switch on here once has anybody got a picture of how to do that? Thanks to All
Disconnect battery, then pull the rod to what would be the full ON position. Theres a little button on the top of the headlight switch behind the dash. Push this little button and the rod should pretty much pop right out. Some minor wiggling may be required.
To remove the switch nut, use the special tool if you got it, a broad bladed screwdriver or needlenose pliers if you don't. Supporting the switch behind the dash with one hand makes it easier to loosen and tighten the nut. Once it's out, pull the harness. A new headlight switch is a cheap replacement, the plastic gets brittle with age, the springs bind inside, etc. It's also nice when the dash lights respond well to the new rheostat! (This is also a good time to do the Parking Light Mod! )
You may have to drop one or two vent cables from the dash for a little more room to work, less obstacles to work around.
I have the headlight switch coming .When I put the rod into the new one will I need to depress the button? and will it just go in one way ? I am trying to get ahead of it thanks
I have the headlight switch coming .When I put the rod into the new one will I need to depress the button? and will it just go in one way ? I am trying to get ahead of it thanks
Push the headlight **** shaft into the headlight switch, it should "click" into place without any need to depress that hidden ****. The shaft has a triangular cross section (if memory serves) and will go in any way you try.
Push the headlight **** shaft into the headlight switch, it should "click" into place without any need to depress that hidden ****. The shaft has a triangular cross section (if memory serves) and will go in any way you try.