Valve clearence question
I have a SB (hydrolic lifters) , 2600 miles on new engine with some engine miss, As in my earlier thread I was told to check the push rods to see if they were loose, and they all were. I was told that I can set the valve clearence by turning the rotor to point to #1 spark plug location and #1 culinder at TDC and do the following. On the #1 in & ex valves tighten the rocker nut till you can't turn the push rod then give it 1 and 1/2 turns more. Do the same cyl.3, ex valve, 5, in. valve, 7 in. valve, 2.In. valve, 4 ex. valve and 8 ex.valve . Then turn the engine 360 degrees and do the remaining valves.
Question.1 does 360 degree engine turn mean the timing mark on the harmonic balencer goes once all the way around (starting at TBC # 1 cylinder) or do I go twice around on the harmonic balencer.
Question 2 Do I turn the rocker nut in half turn increments, statring the car up after each turn or can I turn the nut 1-1/2 times all once??
Question 3, Is this the correct number of turns ??? Can't find it in any books... I never did a valve clearence with the covers off and the engine running,,, to messy even with the little oil deflectors???
Thanks again, your help is priceless. Chuck
Question.1 does 360 degree engine turn mean the timing mark on the harmonic balencer goes once all the way around (starting at TBC # 1 cylinder) or do I go twice around on the harmonic balencer.
Question 2 Do I turn the rocker nut in half turn increments, statring the car up after each turn or can I turn the nut 1-1/2 times all once??
Question 3, Is this the correct number of turns ??? Can't find it in any books... I never did a valve clearence with the covers off and the engine running,,, to messy even with the little oil deflectors???
Thanks again, your help is priceless. Chuck
I have a SB (hydrolic lifters) , 2600 miles on new engine with some engine miss, As in my earlier thread I was told to check the push rods to see if they were loose, and they all were. I was told that I can set the valve clearence by turning the rotor to point to #1 spark plug location and #1 culinder at TDC and do the following. On the #1 in & ex valves tighten the rocker nut till you can't turn the push rod then give it 1 and 1/2 turns more. Do the same cyl.3, ex valve, 5, in. valve, 7 in. valve, 2.In. valve, 4 ex. valve and 8 ex.valve . Then turn the engine 360 degrees and do the remaining valves.
Question.1 does 360 degree engine turn mean the timing mark on the harmonic balencer goes once all the way around (starting at TBC # 1 cylinder) or do I go twice around on the harmonic balencer.
Once around makes 350 degrees.
Question 2 Do I turn the rocker nut in half turn increments, statring the car up after each turn or can I turn the nut 1-1/2 times all once??
You can make the adjustments without starting the engine up after each half turn.
Question 3, Is this the correct number of turns ??? Can't find it in any books... I never did a valve clearence with the covers off and the engine running,,, to messy even with the little oil deflectors???
Don't know the correct answer to that one. I have always set valves statically, cylinder by cylinder, prior to startup and finished adjustment with engine running.
Thanks again, your help is priceless. Chuck
Question.1 does 360 degree engine turn mean the timing mark on the harmonic balencer goes once all the way around (starting at TBC # 1 cylinder) or do I go twice around on the harmonic balencer.
Once around makes 350 degrees.
Question 2 Do I turn the rocker nut in half turn increments, statring the car up after each turn or can I turn the nut 1-1/2 times all once??
You can make the adjustments without starting the engine up after each half turn.
Question 3, Is this the correct number of turns ??? Can't find it in any books... I never did a valve clearence with the covers off and the engine running,,, to messy even with the little oil deflectors???
Don't know the correct answer to that one. I have always set valves statically, cylinder by cylinder, prior to startup and finished adjustment with engine running.
Thanks again, your help is priceless. Chuck
Rich
Seems I've read in previous threads the the number of turns varies between 1/2 and 1. I have successfully adjusted my 350 with a moderately hot hydraulic cam at a half turn with no problems. A turn and a half sounds like too much to me. Bob
Ok It seems like you have 2 methods mixed up in your head.
The method you gave, in which you put the harmonic balancer mark and timing tab mark at 0 and adjusted half the valves, is for adjusting valves cold without running the engine.
Using this method you will not start the motor. You will setup as stated and after adjusting these valves turn the crankshaft 1 full turn ,360 deg's ,to align the balancer timing mark and zero on the tab again. You will now find nmbr 6 vlvs int and ex loose and you can adjust the remaining vlvs. The ajustment is 1/2 of a turn to 1 full turn of the adjusting nut not 1-1/2 turns. Just use 3/4 of a turn. It's very important that you are carefull when adjusting zero clearance of the valves. You want to find the spot, when spinning the pushrod and adjusting the nut ,where you just fell resistance and it is from this point that you put your 3/4 of a turn on the lifter adjustment nut.
It's not that big a deal to do the vlv adj with the engine running. Run the engine to get the motor warm. Remove the valve cover one at a time. Get 2-3 ft alluminum foil and lay out with one edge tucked over the head valve cover lip. Start the engine and adjust each vlv backing off untill they start to clack and adjusting slowly to find the zero clearance spot where they just stop clacking ,then apply your 3/4 turn. Can still be messy but less chance of a newbie making a mistake and over tightening a vlv and burning one. Buy some replacement vlv cover gaskets to prevent leaks. LOL
Bob
The method you gave, in which you put the harmonic balancer mark and timing tab mark at 0 and adjusted half the valves, is for adjusting valves cold without running the engine.
Using this method you will not start the motor. You will setup as stated and after adjusting these valves turn the crankshaft 1 full turn ,360 deg's ,to align the balancer timing mark and zero on the tab again. You will now find nmbr 6 vlvs int and ex loose and you can adjust the remaining vlvs. The ajustment is 1/2 of a turn to 1 full turn of the adjusting nut not 1-1/2 turns. Just use 3/4 of a turn. It's very important that you are carefull when adjusting zero clearance of the valves. You want to find the spot, when spinning the pushrod and adjusting the nut ,where you just fell resistance and it is from this point that you put your 3/4 of a turn on the lifter adjustment nut.
It's not that big a deal to do the vlv adj with the engine running. Run the engine to get the motor warm. Remove the valve cover one at a time. Get 2-3 ft alluminum foil and lay out with one edge tucked over the head valve cover lip. Start the engine and adjust each vlv backing off untill they start to clack and adjusting slowly to find the zero clearance spot where they just stop clacking ,then apply your 3/4 turn. Can still be messy but less chance of a newbie making a mistake and over tightening a vlv and burning one. Buy some replacement vlv cover gaskets to prevent leaks. LOL
Bob
1/2 to 1 turn is acceptable. I like to use 3/4 turn. No reason, just somewhere in the middle. I have heard one or two lifters using 1/2 turn. And all quiet at 3/4 turn. Push-rod should have almost no friction when rolling between your fingers. Once you feel resistance, start your 1/2 to 1 turn. Make sure if you have locks you don't change the adjustment when locking down the nut.
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Lars
I make a suggestion that until you get the feel of things and a little experience, to do it with the engine running, one side at a time with clips on the rockers to stop splash. Do that a time or two and you'll be ready for the "engine off" method with confidence.
That's the easiest, quickest and most fool proof way to do it.
As far as the number of turns past the click. An 1/8 turn will probably result in no noise, but it might. It'll also let you get almost all there is rpm wise out of your lifters without pumping up. A half turn, no noise until maybe much, much later in life. A turn? The engine will be worn out before you ever have to touch it again.
Your choice.
That's the easiest, quickest and most fool proof way to do it.
As far as the number of turns past the click. An 1/8 turn will probably result in no noise, but it might. It'll also let you get almost all there is rpm wise out of your lifters without pumping up. A half turn, no noise until maybe much, much later in life. A turn? The engine will be worn out before you ever have to touch it again.
Your choice.















