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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 04:01 PM
  #21  
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I checked the bulbs that I got in from LIC and they do have the 2 nubs.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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On the headlight problem, check the dimmer switch. Probe the input and the outputs. This is usually the problem.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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With a mutimeter if I pull the switch, is the switch itself the ground? Where do I check the input and output on the switch?
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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I just pulled the connection to the dimmer switch. It is a 3 probe connector. Now what do I check? You have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about electric.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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I just jumped the dimmer switch and the headlights worked!!! Thanks for the help. I'll order a dimmer switch today. Now to tackle the courtesy/brake light dilemma!!
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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Good, get the dimmer in, clean the contacts on the connector and see if the headlights work in Dim/Bright.

A local auto parts store should carry the floor dimmer switch.

So, is it just the "Courtesy" fuse that is blowing? The cigarette lighter is on that circuit as well IIRC. Make sure that it's working, or at least pull the lighter part out and check the fuse again. If there is a screw or nut in there that could be blowing the fuse. If you can, just unplug it or disconnect the power wire from it. Try and narrow down the problem. Then one by one, bring them back on line and see which one is causing the problem.

Mark

Last edited by ghostrider20; Nov 1, 2007 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ghostrider20
The cigarette lighter is on the circuit as well IIRC. Make sure there that is working, or at least pull the lighter part out and check the fuse again. If there is a screw or nut in there that could blowing the fuse. If you can, just unplug it or disconnect the power wire for it. Try and narrow down the problem.

Mark
Oooh, good point. There have been problems off an on over the years with replacement lighter housings coming from the vendors wired with a dead short. Found that on my 62 years ago, then saw the same references here on the forum.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #28  
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I did pull out the lighter and try to put a fuse in but again got the sparking. I will try to get behind and unplug the power to the lighter and try again. Is there a way to check the bulb sockets with the mulitmeter to see if they are ok. Like I said they have been sitting with the bulbs out for years and may have some corrosion. The car is garaged in Southern California so the humidity is pretty low but can they cause a short without a bulb in?
I also noticed last night that the front drivers side parking light is out ( but works with the directional signals). Can one bulb being out affect the brake lights?
By the way, I took out the dimmer switch cleanded the contacts on the switch and connector, plugged it back in and out a couple times and it now works fine!! Both low and high beams work.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
I checked the bulbs that I got in from LIC and they do have the 2 nubs.
Nubs mean nothing in this application. If the bulbs in the courtesy lights aren't #90's, chances are they are causing a dead short. Pull all the courtesy light bulbs including the one in the luggage compartment and see if your short goes away. Also check the wire and connector for the glove box light to make sure it's not shorted to ground. Just a note, your clock is also on the same circuit as the courtesy lights and cigar lighter.

Dave
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Also any idea of the sparking in the fuse box and instant blowing the fuse when I try to replace the brake light/courtesy lights fuse?
Brake lights and courtesy lights are on separate circuits.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #31  
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I did pull all of the bulbs including the one in the glove box and still get a short. I just replaced the switch in the glove box. Is there a way of checking that to see if it is the problem? Also on my fuse box (65 vette) the bottom fuse is a 20A and labelled Courtesy/Stop LPS. Supposedly it is for courtesy lamps , stop lights, and license plate lamp.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Very strange, the book says the license plate light is included in that fuse but I just checked and the license plate lights works ( with no fuse in!!!)
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:06 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Very strange, the book says the license plate light is included in that fuse but I just checked and the license plate lights works ( with no fuse in!!!)
License plate light and taillights are on the same circuit. Pull the fuse above and the taillights and the license plate light will be dead.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
I did pull all of the bulbs including the one in the glove box and still get a short. I just replaced the switch in the glove box. Is there a way of checking that to see if it is the problem? Also on my fuse box (65 vette) the bottom fuse is a 20A and labelled Courtesy/Stop LPS. Supposedly it is for courtesy lamps , stop lights, and license plate lamp.
Yep, my '65 fuse block says the same thing, however the wiring schematic shows the courtesy lamps, clock, glove box lamp and cigarette lighter on one circuit, and the taillamps, license plate lamp and stop lamps on another (second fuse from the bottom of the block).
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 03:21 PM
  #35  
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That's strange. I have pulled all of the socket and checked the ohms across each pair of wires and it pegs the meter each time showing a short somewhere. I was about to pull the brake light switch to see if that did the same but that shouldn't make any difference based on your new info. Thanks for that!! The only thing I haven't checked on the courtesy light circuit is that lighter. Is that easy to disconnect? It's hard to feel behind and figure which is it without taking the dash apart.
Since the brake lights are on the circuit with the tailights and license plate lights, do you think its the switch?
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 05:24 PM
  #36  
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Just disconnected the lighter and checked the clock which is not connected anyway and still get a spike all the way to the right on the ohm setting so don't know where to go from here. I will put the brake light switch and jump that to see if that is the problem with the brake lights.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Just disconnected the lighter and checked the clock which is not connected anyway and still get a spike all the way to the right on the ohm setting so don't know where to go from here.
So what you are saying is that the ohmmeter reads zero when you connected the ohmmeter to what? The connector for the clock has two wires one of which is a ground black wire.

As to where you go from here, my best guess would be to follow the below procedure with all the courtesy light and glove box light bulbs remove, clock and cigarette lighter and battery disconnected:

Pull the fuse for the courtesy light circuit.
Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to left fuse block terminal of the courtesy light circuit and the other lead to ground.
If the ohmmeter reads zero resistance, the circuit is shorted.
If the circuit is shhorted, disconnect the rear wiring harness at the connector located on the crossbar between the steering column and headlight switch.
If the ohmmeter still reads zero, the short in the dash area.
If the ohmmeter moves off zero, showing resistance, the short is in the rear harness.

Hope this helps a little and let us know the results.

Dave
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 07:33 PM
  #38  
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Will try that suggestion next for the courtesy light problem. About the brake lights, do you think that is the switch. I did find out today from the help of StringRay 76 that the fuse that I thought controlled the brake lights ( in the original manual) does not, it only controls the courtesy lights, lighter, clock, and glove box light. The fuse for the brake lights is actually on the same circuit as the tailights, license plate lights, and parking lights. All of those work except the brake lights. The brake lights obviously are of more importance immediatley to try and fix.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Will try that suggestion next for the courtesy light problem. About the brake lights, do you think that is the switch. I did find out today from the help of StringRay 76 that the fuse that I thought controlled the brake lights ( in the original manual) does not, it only controls the courtesy lights, lighter, clock, and glove box light. The fuse for the brake lights is actually on the same circuit as the tailights, license plate lights, and parking lights. All of those work except the brake lights. The brake lights obviously are of more importance immediatley to try and fix.
If you're lucky, you will find a bad brake light switch. To check it out, pull the connectors off the brake light switch and connect them together with a jumper wire. If the brake lights work, the brake light switch is bad, and if they don't work, your ain't so lucky as it could be a bad turn signal switch.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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Would the turn signals work if the switch was bad?
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