Distributor problem?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
"The play on the distributor is very little (I have no point of reference so please jump in and tell me if this is wrong). The dist play is about 1 / 4 inch CW, zero CCW and maybe 1/16 vertical (doesn’t seem too bad)."
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I don't know about everyone else but 1/16 of an inch would be excessive end play to me. If I remember correctly shouldn't the end play be measured in thousanths of an inch? I had to shim my distributor when I changed from TI to points.
Steve
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I don't know about everyone else but 1/16 of an inch would be excessive end play to me. If I remember correctly shouldn't the end play be measured in thousanths of an inch? I had to shim my distributor when I changed from TI to points.
Steve
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
"The play on the distributor is very little (I have no point of reference so please jump in and tell me if this is wrong). The dist play is about 1 / 4 inch CW, zero CCW and maybe 1/16 vertical (doesn’t seem too bad)."
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $
I don't know about everyone else but 1/16 of an inch would be excessive end play to me. If I remember correctly shouldn't the end play be measured in thousanths of an inch? I had to shim my distributor when I changed from TI to points.
Steve
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $
I don't know about everyone else but 1/16 of an inch would be excessive end play to me. If I remember correctly shouldn't the end play be measured in thousanths of an inch? I had to shim my distributor when I changed from TI to points.
Steve
Geek
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,461
Likes: 18
From: cooper city florida
Joe I have a good Holley I just took off my car because I'm detailing my engine compartment. Your welcome to borrow it to see if it makes a difference on your shutter. I also have a dwell meter that will tell you if you have excessive distributor wear. Your also welcome to borrow that if you like.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
PM sent to 65vettedude… you guys are too nice!!!
Guys, where can I get more info on checking and adjusting end play? Do I need to pull the distributor to check? My 1/16” measurement is me pulling on the rotor and eye-balling it.
I'm going to finish what I started with the carb (it needed adjustment anyway). If this doen't play out I may take 65vettedude up on his offer. I may still have to revisit the distributor so I need more info...
Guys, where can I get more info on checking and adjusting end play? Do I need to pull the distributor to check? My 1/16” measurement is me pulling on the rotor and eye-balling it.
I'm going to finish what I started with the carb (it needed adjustment anyway). If this doen't play out I may take 65vettedude up on his offer. I may still have to revisit the distributor so I need more info...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
PM sent to 65vettedude… you guys are too nice!!!
Guys, where can I get more info on checking and adjusting end play? Do I need to pull the distributor to check? My 1/16” measurement is me pulling on the rotor and eye-balling it.
I'm going to finish what I started with the carb (it needed adjustment anyway). If this doen't play out I may take 65vettedude up on his offer. I may still have to revisit the distributor so I need more info...
Guys, where can I get more info on checking and adjusting end play? Do I need to pull the distributor to check? My 1/16” measurement is me pulling on the rotor and eye-balling it.
I'm going to finish what I started with the carb (it needed adjustment anyway). If this doen't play out I may take 65vettedude up on his offer. I may still have to revisit the distributor so I need more info...
The drive gear at the bottom of the dist. shaft is where you have to look. So the dist. will have to come out. If you see 1/16 movement in the shaft going up and down then it has way to much play and you will have to shim it. Measure it with a feeler gauge. The shims go above the drive gear. The gear has to come off to do this. The shims should be available. I got mine through GM but you should be able to contact Mallory also. Not sure if they are a stockable item at the local parts house. However, if you go back to the OEM you should check the end play on it also. If you know someone with an old Sun Dist. machine that can check the unit for wear etc., that would even be better.
As for running a stock OEM dist. I don't see any downside. I have run one in my car for years. Would like to go to an MSD "Ready To Run" unit but they don't make it with a tach. drive. Their tach. drive units require their MSD remote coil so I don't want to put one of those in. Good luck.
Steve
Last edited by 66BlkBB; Jan 4, 2008 at 06:30 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
Problem fixed!!! 
It was the carburetor. I’m going to do a few more test runs tonight but it looks like the shutter/power loss was caused by the carb. I took the carb off and serviced it according to Lar’s instruction sheet. I didn't rebuild the carb but I did several adjustments. What I found wrong was: almost every screw was loose (might have had some vacuum leaks); the carb base gasket was old and brittle (again maybe some leaks) and the floats were way too low (especially the secondary). I’m thinking with the secondary float set so low, I may been “running out of gas” in the secondary. ..possible?
In any case, with the new ignition wires, setting the curve on the distributor, adjusting the valve lash and adjusting the carb, the car runs great!! It idles smooth, draws about 19” of vacuum, accelerates smoothly in all gears and red-lines with power to spare. The car now drives like a CORVETTE!!!
Thank you for all the help guys..it’s great to know I have the support of such a vast pool of experience.
…now on to the next project.
It was the carburetor. I’m going to do a few more test runs tonight but it looks like the shutter/power loss was caused by the carb. I took the carb off and serviced it according to Lar’s instruction sheet. I didn't rebuild the carb but I did several adjustments. What I found wrong was: almost every screw was loose (might have had some vacuum leaks); the carb base gasket was old and brittle (again maybe some leaks) and the floats were way too low (especially the secondary). I’m thinking with the secondary float set so low, I may been “running out of gas” in the secondary. ..possible? In any case, with the new ignition wires, setting the curve on the distributor, adjusting the valve lash and adjusting the carb, the car runs great!! It idles smooth, draws about 19” of vacuum, accelerates smoothly in all gears and red-lines with power to spare. The car now drives like a CORVETTE!!!
Thank you for all the help guys..it’s great to know I have the support of such a vast pool of experience.
…now on to the next project.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,017
Likes: 2
From: The problem is all inside your head she said to me.
Problem fixed!!! It was the carburetor. I’m going to do a few more test runs tonight but it looks like the shutter/power loss was caused by the carb. I took the carb off and serviced it according to Lar’s instruction sheet. I didn't rebuild the carb but I did several adjustments. What I found wrong was: almost every screw was loose (might have had some vacuum leaks); the carb base gasket was old and brittle (again maybe some leaks) and the floats were way too low (especially the secondary). I’m thinking with the secondary float set so low, I may been “running out of gas” in the secondary. ..possible?
In any case, with the new ignition wires, setting the curve on the distributor, adjusting the valve lash and adjusting the carb, the car runs great!! It idles smooth, draws about 19” of vacuum, accelerates smoothly in all gears and red-lines with power to spare. The car now drives like a CORVETTE!!!
Thank you for all the help guys..it’s great to know I have the support of such a vast pool of experience.
…now on to the next project.
It was the carburetor. I’m going to do a few more test runs tonight but it looks like the shutter/power loss was caused by the carb. I took the carb off and serviced it according to Lar’s instruction sheet. I didn't rebuild the carb but I did several adjustments. What I found wrong was: almost every screw was loose (might have had some vacuum leaks); the carb base gasket was old and brittle (again maybe some leaks) and the floats were way too low (especially the secondary). I’m thinking with the secondary float set so low, I may been “running out of gas” in the secondary. ..possible? In any case, with the new ignition wires, setting the curve on the distributor, adjusting the valve lash and adjusting the carb, the car runs great!! It idles smooth, draws about 19” of vacuum, accelerates smoothly in all gears and red-lines with power to spare. The car now drives like a CORVETTE!!!
Thank you for all the help guys..it’s great to know I have the support of such a vast pool of experience.
…now on to the next project.
Glad to see you fixed it and discovered it yourself too. I also took my carb off awhile back and sure enough almost all the screws get loose over time. This was on a holly only a few years old. If you ever decied to get a new ignition I recommend the MSD also. I have the distributor and the 6A box. Well made, easy to tune.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
Check out http://lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vettetech.html
I found my carb info under “Fuel & Intake Systems”. Thank you to Barry Kimmelman and all who contribute to an awesome website full of information (makes me think I actually know what I’m doing)
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 199
Likes: 26
From: tucson az
distributer/ Igintion Proplems
Hi Guys
This is my first reply to the forum. It also happens to be my favorite subject (retired engineer) Point-less units have been around for the last 40 some years or better. I have a 67 327/350 with the same type of unit. These units use infrared LED and a shutter wheel to pick up individual pulses it is my humble opinion that timing accuracy above 5500 RPM'S goes in the poop shoot. I don't have mine as I replaced it with points ( due to heat sink seperation)
T.R. McDermott
This is my first reply to the forum. It also happens to be my favorite subject (retired engineer) Point-less units have been around for the last 40 some years or better. I have a 67 327/350 with the same type of unit. These units use infrared LED and a shutter wheel to pick up individual pulses it is my humble opinion that timing accuracy above 5500 RPM'S goes in the poop shoot. I don't have mine as I replaced it with points ( due to heat sink seperation)
T.R. McDermott
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,373
Likes: 6,371
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You're best off e-mailing me directly to request the various tech papers. I revise the papers at irregular intervals to include new and up-to-date info. The various web sites that are posting my papers do not keep them up to date.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
