That is correct. you can purchase the roller bearing direct from Allied for less.

But if you aer thinking of changing to disc brakes (in front), then the new rotors/hubs will come with new roller bearings (but these are different from the above bearings and cannot be interchanged).

Plasticman

 

John,

I thought you had a C4 front and rear suspension under your car? Or was that a different one?

How much do you think a 92 style rear suspension is worth: caliper to caliper including truss and drive shaft??

I have an opportunity to buy one but I am not sure of the value. This would be a piece meal suspension package for me but i can stash the stuff in my garage for later. Plus it gets me the updated disk brakes.

Your thoughts?

 

I wish! I love how my 87 Z-52 optioned Vette rides and handles, and if my 62 was not in such condition (frame and suspension), I would love to marry the 2 (well, not with my 87, but with another in poorer condition).

Me thinks you are thinking of someone else. The 62 Vette has the stock suspension, except for the front disc brake conversion, and the soon to be added Traction Masters in the rear.

As for worth of the C4 rear suspension, think looking at Ebay and the C4 parts for sale section would be the best reference.

Plasticman

 

most of us that have changed to front discs haven't felt the need to install a proportioning valve.

Bill[/QUOTE]

Hey Bill..

I was just doing a search on disc brake conversions ...and see that several folks have done this using stock master cylinders.....now I see your post that indicates no proportioning valve is needed too. That's news to me...I just assumed you would need ap-valve with front dics brakes.

Can you tell me if you have tried slamming on the brakes and looing at the rubber marks left by all 4 wheels and how they compared?

I'm assuming that the car stops in a straight line and pretty well or something would have been changed..correct?

Thanks...Stan...

 

Stan
i had different front disc brakes (4-piston OEM calipers) and OEM rear drum brakes for 30 years:



then i added rear disc brakes:



then i changed to IFS and had different front discs:



i am using the original master cylinder and am NOT using a proportioning valve and have never had any problem with any of these combinations; stops have always been straight, quick, and true. but the next time i drive it, i'll see what happens when i intentionally lock them up....
Bill

 

Hey Bill..

I was just doing a search on disc brake conversions ...and see that several folks have done this using stock master cylinders.....now I see your post that indicates no proportioning valve is needed too. That's news to me...I just assumed you would need ap-valve with front dics brakes.

Can you tell me if you have tried slamming on the brakes and looing at the rubber marks left by all 4 wheels and how they compared?

I'm assuming that the car stops in a straight line and pretty well or something would have been changed..correct?

Thanks...Stan...[/QUOTE]

Stan,

I have the "standard" disc brakes conversion (uses same calipers as Master Power, Central Corvette, ECI, etc.), and am running the stock drum brakes. No proportioning valve, and a modified stock master cylinder (pressure valve removed).

I have done full foot pressure braking (testing) and have seen no reason for a proportioning valve what so ever. Braking was always straight with no signs of unequal pressure.
However, I have not tried it the rain (full foot pressure lockup)!

Now if you plan on driving in the rain, and apply full foot pressure, the rears "may" lockup. So I won't say you don't need one, just that I see no need for how I drive (especially in the rain - and how little I drive in the rain as well).

Plasticman

 

That's great Bill... sure makes the IFS even more of a consideration. By the time I get in full swing on my project I may have gone full circle back to the basics....but have a much better driving , stopping car than dead stock, for peanuts, compared to some of the things I've considered.

..Manual rack and pinion...manual disc brakes....may even consider using my wide ratio Muncie instead of a built 2004R this point...doesn't get any easier than that.

Sure is tempting...
Stan...

 

Thanks John..

...I have to buy a master cylinder anyway. One of the many things this project doesn't have. I guess a dual non-power MC would be a little better choice for the same money. Heck even if a proportioning valve "is" needed in the rain, that's not much trouble. Just eliminating the power aspect cleans up the engine well and saves considerable labor and $$. That's real the teaser..
I just never considered that power wasn't needed..

Stan..

 

So no plans for that ifs swap, eh...?

 

I don't have the money that some here have and I dint wont to change original parts on my 55 Corvette so I added a booster from a drawing GM did for a 57 Corvette that they showed in a print but never did it. My brakes now feel like a 55 car having PB. And I love it, they work great. I added the booster in the left hand splash shield as seen here. It's a 55-57 T-Bird unit.
A few other Corvette guys have done it after talking with me and they also like it.

 

Roy
how hard to find, and expensive. is that booster? (55-57 t-birds are pretty rare too...)
Bill

 

My 55 Chrysler used one also (made by Bendix).
Bet you could find one of those easier than a T-Bird version - Ha!

Plasticman

 

Keep looking under 55-57 t-bird on e-bay they come up all the time around $150,00 to $300.00 or try T-bird repro guys, not that hard to locate.

 

Stan
i tried a panic stop both my driveway and from about 45mph... my rear discs do lock up; guess that's why the car 'squats' when it stops under normal conditions...

but, i don't remember having that problem when i had the other brake combinations installed, so it may just be the combination of this front & rear disc combo.
Bill

 

Stan
i tried a panic stop both my driveway and from about 45mph... my rear discs do lock up; guess that's why the car 'squats' when it stops under normal conditions...

but, i don't remember having that problem when i had the other brake combinations installed, so it may just be the combination of this front & rear disc combo.
Bill[/QUOTE]

Bill,

Certainly your rear discs should be more effective than your old drums in overall stopping power. But, it can also be the difference between what pads you have on the front too. If they are not as "good" (poorer friction capable), then it is causing the rears to do more works, hence the lockup in the rear before stopping. You also could have "too good a pad" in the rear vs. what pads are on the front (a great differential between the 2 sets of pads in friction coefficients). I would opt for a better pad on the front first.

I still feel that my brakes stop better than yours do, and as you know, I have drums on the rear and the single piston calipers (with unknown pads) in front.

John

 

Thanks Bill and John..

That's interesting ..that the car with rear drums might stop better than the car with all 4 disc....all other things being equal.

Is that opinon mutually shared?

Stan..

 

no....
Bill

 

Har de har,Heh heh...that's funny. You guys remind me of me and my fishing partner of 35 years..

Stan...

 

Ya have to understand that Bill has a good 100 pounds on me, so he can stomp harder!

John

 

Ahhhh...... POWER brakes witout the booster....heh heh!!