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YES Buy the block and stick it in the back corner of your garage. If you don't, you will wish someday you did. You can always sell it later if you change your mind.
YES Buy the block and stick it in the back corner of your garage. If you don't, you will wish someday you did. You can always sell it later if you change your mind.
I don't think that's a $1000 block to anyone but a few people. May be hard to get your money back later.
Only you can determine the impact of a $1000 block in the corner of your garage for a car that's already got thousands of $$ to be spent to bring it back to a condition that justifies a correct-ish engine.
That's not a slam at your car, but a comment. We're not talking about a really correct looking 62 with a 350 engine in it, needing only a good engine block to be an excellent restoration candidate.
Last edited by 62Jeff; Dec 28, 2007 at 02:35 PM.
Reason: Spelling, it's always the spelling
You shouldn't have to pay over $2-$300 for a good 327 block core. Even less depending on your local market and whether you ask for a 327 block or you ask for a 327 Corvette block. Same block, just a difference in asking price.
I don't think that's a $1000 block to anyone but a few people. May be hard to get your money back later.
That's not a slam at your car, but a comment.
I understand completely. That's why I asked the question. Yes, my car COULD be brought back but I am not a numbers matching freak so I personally don't really care if its a 100 point car.
I have no illusions about what a POS my car looks like!!
I was more curious in the "money in the bank for later" question.
I think you guys are right - $1,000 is too much. $500? Maybe.
Otherwise, I think I will spend my money on a 5 speed or a 427 CID small block or maybe even something crazy like paint!!!
Or, crap, even a convertible top??? That is why i sold my hard top and got the money to even entertain this idea in the first place!!!!
I understand completely. That's why I asked the question. Yes, my car COULD be brought back but I am not a numbers matching freak so I personally don't really care if its a 100 point car.
I have no illusions about what a POS my car looks like!!
I was more curious in the "money in the bank for later" question.
I think you guys are right - $1,000 is too much. $500? Maybe.
Otherwise, I think I will spend my money on a 5 speed or a 427 CID small block or maybe even something crazy like paint!!!
Or, crap, even a convertible top??? That is why i sold my hard top and got the money to even entertain this idea in the first place!!!!
My 870 block came with the crank and maged. Never bored and only .08 at top so can be bored to whatever. Crank only needs polishing. I paid $500 and then for another $250, I got matching 461 bare heads already maged. So I have correct dated block, crank, and heads with casting dates within 3 days of eachother and withing 3 weeks of my car birthday. All for $750.
My 870 block came with the crank and maged. Never bored and only .08 at top so can be bored to whatever. Crank only needs polishing. I paid $500 and then for another $250, I got matching 461 bare heads already maged. So I have correct dated block, crank, and heads with casting dates within 3 days of eachother and withing 3 weeks of my car birthday. All for $750.
Thats great!!!
My thought is that a later 870 block, such as a 64 or 65 would be a little cheaper. The heads as well. I know 461 X heads are stupid expensive. With production levels where they were for the C2's, my guess would be that there are more around.
This is not to minimize your car or parts!!!! I hope i can find the same deal!!!
Have you thought about going down in the 'hood and dragging the whole car out of somebody's back yard?
Any Flint produced 327 engine block of any year sounds like it would work for you. You can't tell one from the other from a few feet away.
Mike, this is incorrect. I would love to stumble across my original motor but we all know that isn't going to happen. I found a correct cast date block, but with the wrong stamp. Therefore, the pad code assembly date doesn't matter since the code is wrong anyway.
You can't tell I have an 010 350 in the car now from a few feet away and with any luck and a bunch of cash, you WILL want to look closely at my car before I die to see how cool it really is.
BTW, I live in the 'hood and if I saw a car that had one of these in it, I would be all over it. I think just about every 60's Chevy is pretty cool.
[QUOTE=TopLess62;1563350994]
You can't tell I have an 010 350 in the car now from a few feet away and with any luck and a bunch of cash, you WILL want to look closely at my car before I die to see how cool it really is.
What I meant was, even with a wrong cast date and wrong engine code/vin # one 327 block looks like another from a few feet away. You can't see the numbers and the block castings look the same.
Your 010 blocks stands out because of a lack of a rear breather.
FWIW, I can certainly see the fun in putting together a "code-correct" engine for one's C2. If the engine in my 65 was some sort of NOM and it crapped out, I would definitely choose a configuration to "shoot for" (perhaps L76) and have some fun putting together the proper '870 block, heads (I might not go too crazy there, since it would only show up with the valve covers removed), proper 44461 manifold, proper no flaw valve covers, Holley, aircleaner, rad, surge tank, gauge cluster, etc. Why not? Having a goal to shoot for would make it fun (for me) in a twisted kind of way that not everyone shares (right Mike? ) or understands . .
But I'd stamp the pad like Ken, to have fun and to keep from putting another restamp out there that could be used to defraud the next guy.
I guess I'll throw one more thought out there on your engine question.
I'm a big fan of correct cars and correct restorations. However, if I were looking for a 62 to restore, finding a car needing major body work would not interest me in the least - and having a spare passenger car engine block with the correct casting date as part of the deal wouldn't convince me to buy that car when there are so many other cars out there in more complete shape.
Even casting dates on blocks can be recreated by the reproduction engine business.
That having been said - I have a spare block for my 62. It was originally an over-the-counter block that a friend of mine found and GAVE to me. It has the correct casting date, the correct assembly date, and the correct usage code for a 340 horse corvette (which my car is) There is no VIN stamped on it. It's sitting in the garage gathering dust in case I decide to do something with it.
In this case, this block is well worth some premium money for you and the perceived value of your car. You don't have to change/erase/obscure anything, just add numbers
I have a spare block for my 62. It was originally an over-the-counter block that a friend of mine found and GAVE to me. It has the correct casting date, the correct assembly date, and the correct usage code for a 340 horse corvette (which my car is) There is no VIN stamped on it. It's sitting in the garage gathering dust in case I decide to do something with it.
Jeff
I will have the beers ready when you bring it over!!!!
Pete, going back to your original post I would think that if your car is mostly original or you plan to make it that way then go for it, but that depends where your car is now.
As you know it can cost a fortune to bring a car back that missing it's major components.
I like that style, but I also like the Resto-mods. That being said compare the cost of a brand new LS-2 and modern underpinnings compared to buying all the original parts you need and return on the dollar and fun factor could be greater with the Resto-mod IMHO.
Pete, going back to your original post I would think that if your car is mostly original or you plan to make it that way then go for it, but that depends where your car is now.
As you know it can cost a fortune to bring a car back that missing it's major components.
I like that style, but I also like the Resto-mods. That being said compare the cost of a brand new LS-2 and modern underpinnings compared to buying all the original parts you need and return on the dollar and fun factor could be greater with the Resto-mod IMHO.
I am starting to think you guys are right. I think this car is just too far gone (from stock) to bring back to original NCRS or even look like it.
Oh well, I guess a 5 or 6 speed and a whole bunch of cool guy go fast stuff is in my future!!! (When i hit the lotto)!!!
I'm right now rebuilding a 1955 engine block CAR having the correct date, for an extra engine to have because it's getting harder to find a 55 block. Yes the pad numbers are wrong so I'll have it remove showing no numbers ,When you got any engine from a dealer parts department they came blank having no numbers because it was not stamped to any Corvette or car vehicle. They ether left it blank or stamped it correct for DMV purposes.It will only get harder to locate the right block and date , so I tell people to look and keep one on hand . There are now people that stamp blocks making them correct. So the smart thing in my opinion is to locate a dated block and put it a side for the future. Same with heads,water pumps and so on!
am starting to think you guys are right. I think this car is just too far gone (from stock) to bring back to original NCRS or even look like it.
Oh well, I guess a 5 or 6 speed and a whole bunch of cool guy go fast stuff is in my future!!! (When i hit the lotto)!!!
Thanks guys!!!
do the car the way YOU want it. either path will cost you a chunk. if funds are tight, maybe your dream will be realized in 6 years instead of 2. either way, the most costly mistake you can make is to change vision midway through. any car can be resurrected to the highest standards of excellence, your car has great potential. some of the stuff I have dragged home, the wifey just looks at, and shakes her head.
oh boy, another challenge!
keep the vision!
chuck