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Date Correct block value to Car

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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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Default Date Correct block value to Car

Hey guys,

I found what could be a correctly dated 870 block for my very early '62.

Its a pass car block but the cast date is correct - G 7 1. My serial # is 0098.

What kind of value do you think this would add to my car if I ever decided to sell it? As you can see by my avatar, my car ain't too correct now...

Thanks!!!

Pete
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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Hi big guy!

It may not mean all that much to you at the moment, but the next guy who ever owns your car may like it a lot!

I'd buy it for the right price. $500 max.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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Given the fact that its still a NOM, it doesnt add much at all. Correctly dated doesnt mean much on a passenger car motor, especially on a year like '62 when the VIN is actually matched to the engine pad. I don't see what a subsequent buyer would be interested in. Just another NOM in my opinion.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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In my opinion it just makes the car correct but not matching. I do think it adds some value as some will like the idea of a period correct motor VS something it never had. Probably add as much value as you need to put into it after you build it. (if your lucky).
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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The person that owns it is a fellow forum member. He is asking $1000 for it. I have seen 870 blocks sell between $500 and $1,500 before for correctly dated yet not correctly Vin #'ed.

I don't think that the price is that bad considering that it is so early in the 870 production run.

Obviously, if I wanted to go all out, heads, intake, carb, generator, distributor, water pump, etc will be a huge amount of money. As i mentioned before, my car is far from original but certainly it could be brought back if someone was so inclined.

Is it worth putting $1,000 into the "engine core bank" for some rainy day? That's my question.

So? What do you guys think with this new info?

Thanks again!!!
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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I just did that very thing 'cause it will add value plus it satisfies me.
chuck
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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If you get (or have) correct heads, intake, ehaust manifolds, distrib, carb(s) water pump and generator, it would make a nice package to sell with the for someone that wants that stuff.

Doug
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Is it a correct Flint block? Is it a bare block? For a Flint bare block I would say $500 to $750 would be max.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LSUvetteguy
Is it a correct Flint block? Is it a bare block? For a Flint bare block I would say $500 to $750 would be max.
It is a Flint block, casting date G 7 1, the pad code is F0810S, which i believe is a 250 horse pass car motor.

It is a bare block, currently at .030. A crank and rods are $100 extra. No measurements on those yet.

He gaurantees it to clean up at .060.

I have to believe, based on my initial serches, that this block is pretty rare. I have only seen 2 other 870 blocks dated earlier than December of 61 in about 20 years of being an enthusiest (layman's term for Vette nut).
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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Pure insanity.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Pure insanity.
Mike, can you elaborate please?
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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I don't see the point in buying this engine for your car.

An 870 block from another 62 vette with an appropriate assembly date and usage code for your car, but someone else's VIN would get you most of the engine points at the NCRS.

An 870 block with a passenger car use SEEMS like it would be of almost no value to anyone other than a restamper.

Since you aren't trying to restore the car, I think it'd make more sense to pass on this
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TopLess62
Mike, can you elaborate please?
See 62 Jeff's post.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
See 62 Jeff's post.
I see.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckievette
I just did that very thing 'cause it will add value plus it satisfies me.
chuck
especially, the "satisfies me" part.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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I have a F0817RP complete short block that I would be very happy to get $600 for. Anybody?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:15 AM
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I bought a correct dated block and heads that were produced 3 weeks before my car birthday. Sitting in a corner of my garage. Of course the VIN stamp is not correct but all the casting dates and numbers are. The motor I have in the car is a 350 with LT1 heads and LT1 cam. Runs like a bat out of heck. Some day when the motor gets tired or I blow it up, I will take the correct 327/365 motor and built it to original specs. I will re-stamp the pad 1965 327-365. And hope nobody else has a stamp like it.
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To Date Correct block value to Car

Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:08 AM
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Default I Like It !!

Pete,

The only thing that concerns me is when was your car made? The black book shows 443 cars made in August and ending vin # 827 in September ( 827-443= 384 cars for Sept.)

Now Aug had 23 work days with no Saturdays or Sundays, and Sept had 21 days, less Labor Day holiday = 20 days. So 43 days for 827 cars or 19.23 cars per day. If so, vin # 20867S100098 WAS MADE ON THE 5TH PRODUCTION DAY IN AUGUST 1961. Question is, When did they start production ......Tuesday, August 1 ? Monday August 14?

August 10 (THIS ENGINE ASSEMBLY DAY) was a Thursday, and generally Corvette motors are built about one to two weeks in front of their actual car assembly date. So, if we look at one week, then your car will have to be made on Thursday AUGUST 17, 1961 to fit this engine. We need to find a 62 Corvette freak to verify your actual build date of your car before you spend the money.

I love the engine and agree, a July 7, 1961 cast date is impossible to find. It is interesting to see a July 7 cast vs. August 10 assembly. That's 4 weeks. I have seen engines with one and two days between cast and assemble.

I would buy it anyway, because you will never find any better. Don't worry about pistons and rods. There are new items available today that are better quality and not a lot of money.

I would however demand that engine be mag checked for crackes and get the machine shop to say AOK on bore and clean up, before I spent the money.......even if I had to pay for the tests.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:17 AM
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Default Maybe even better !!

Originally Posted by 56and67
I have a F0817RP complete short block that I would be very happy to get $600 for. Anybody?
We just need to know your actual production date for your car. The car production of 20 cars per day for two months (August and Sept 61 ) is very low. Maybe the hold up was lack of 327 engines as all 62 Corvettes had them.
By October, last vin was #2065 and #3465 for November. So production increased to 50-65 cars per day.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jimgessner
Pete,

The only thing that concerns me is when was your car made? The black book shows 443 cars made in August and ending vin # 827 in September ( 827-443= 384 cars for Sept.)

Now Aug had 23 work days with no Saturdays or Sundays, and Sept had 21 days, less Labor Day holiday = 20 days. So 43 days for 827 cars or 19.23 cars per day. If so, vin # 20867S100098 WAS MADE ON THE 5TH PRODUCTION DAY IN AUGUST 1961. Question is, When did they start production ......Tuesday, August 1 ? Monday August 14?

August 10 (THIS ENGINE ASSEMBLY DAY) was a Thursday, and generally Corvette motors are built about one to two weeks in front of their actual car assembly date. So, if we look at one week, then your car will have to be made on Thursday AUGUST 17, 1961 to fit this engine. We need to find a 62 Corvette freak to verify your actual build date of your car before you spend the money.

I love the engine and agree, a July 7, 1961 cast date is impossible to find. It is interesting to see a July 7 cast vs. August 10 assembly. That's 4 weeks. I have seen engines with one and two days between cast and assemble.

I would buy it anyway, because you will never find any better. Don't worry about pistons and rods. There are new items available today that are better quality and not a lot of money.

I would however demand that engine be mag checked for crackes and get the machine shop to say AOK on bore and clean up, before I spent the money.......even if I had to pay for the tests.
According to the birthday finder on the C1 Registry, it is August 17th. That is the day that I am using in my head to base my assumptions on.

My guess, and perhaps someone can confirm this, but they started casting engines and parts a few weeks earlier than the car production run started. So i think a 4 week lag between casting date and assembly date is OK in this scenario.

As for the quality of the block, having it checked out is part of the plan. Thanks for your help!!!

Originally Posted by jimgessner
We just need to know your actual production date for your car. The car production of 20 cars per day for two months (August and Sept 61 ) is very low. Maybe the hold up was lack of 327 engines as all 62 Corvettes had them.
By October, last vin was #2065 and #3465 for November. So production increased to 50-65 cars per day.
I have to admit, I am not sure why you guys are concerned with the assembly date?? (And i mean that with sincerity!!)

We all know the engine is a pass car block, so either its a correctly cast dated pass car block or its a Corvette restamp, in which case it will have the correct assembly date anyway.

My goal is not to pimp someone into believing they are buying a correct numbers matching car someday, but have the OPTION available to build as correct a car as possible someday for someone.

Personally, when I replace my front clip with an ACI or Shiemershiem's, I will probably shave the front bumpers again to keep it like it is. I will probably never sell the car unless the Michigan economy gets worse so its really all for my kids or whomever might offer me way too much money to allow me to buy something that I might like better.

So, the question still remains in my mind, is $1,000 worth putting into the back corner of my garage for (hopefully) many, many years to gain something back??
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