clock fuse
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 40
From: Duxbury MA
clock fuse
I just had the clock for my '66 rebuilt. I am about to reinstall it and seem to remember a suggestion to put a 2 amp inline fuse just before the clock to keep it from getting fried. Looking at the harness in that location this will be a tight operation.
Any opinions on the need for the inline fuse?
Any opinions on the need for the inline fuse?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,461
Likes: 18
From: cooper city florida
I'm not sure about the clock,but its a great idea for your battery gauge.I forgot to disconnect the battery and I ended up grounding the red, hot wire that goes on the back of the alternator. Started my car and no battery gauge and also I figured I blew my Wells VR715 regulator because I wasn't charging the battery either. Checked my inline 2 amp fuse on the back of the battery gauge....blown. Replaced fuse,started the car,the gauge works again and the battery is being charged. Best 5 bucks I ever spent.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 15
From: Grant-Valkaria Florida
I'm not sure what you call them exactly, but there are "points (?)" that make contact when the clock spring winds down. When these "points" make contact, that gives the clock spring the power to rewind. This happens very regularly. Sometimes the "points" have been known to stick together when they make contact...if there is no fuse, or a disconnect switch for the clock, this can cause a fire. That was one of the main reasons that many people install a battery disconnect for when the car is not in use. If you disconnect your battery when you're not using the car, you could get away without adding the fuse.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
I added a fuse on my '66 clock. I also wired it to a separate pos lead (also fused) that I ran from the battery for other accessories. When I disconnect the battery, the clock keeps ticking.. got tired of always resetting the clock 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 381
From: Strongsville, OH
2016 C2 of the Year Finalist
Easy enough to do with the glovebox and clock out. Did mine in about an hour and even soldered and used shrink insulation on the splice. Working with both openings it's not hard to do.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
just my opinion but I would not splice into existing wiring if at all possible. I made a plug adapter and simply unpluged the pos to the clock and substuted my own.. no cutting and removeable.
as stated, very easy to do one you remove the glove box.
as stated, very easy to do one you remove the glove box.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 37
clock fuse
I just had the clock for my '66 rebuilt. I am about to reinstall it and seem to remember a suggestion to put a 2 amp inline fuse just before the clock to keep it from getting fried. Looking at the harness in that location this will be a tight operation.
Any opinions on the need for the inline fuse?
Any opinions on the need for the inline fuse?
Yes it should be done.
The clock has no fuse protection whatsoever with the factory wiring harness. Battery voltage fed from the amp gauge winds the clock periodically, when the internal points close. The points immediately release to the open position, then slowly move together again as the clock ticks away. The points come together, completing the electrical circuit and the process is repeated. Here's the problem: As the clock mechanism ages, the points begin to stick when the clock "winds down" . If the points stick together without releasing, the coil within the clock overheats from the amperage load, which causes wiring to overheat, melting insulation and starting fires. The red arrow in the photo is pointing to a simple fuse holder wired into the battery ( red ) wire of the clock of a '60 Corvette. Place a 10 amp fuse in this holder to protect the circuit.
Last edited by stratplus; Jul 7, 2009 at 09:23 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 40
From: Duxbury MA
I didn't have the quartz conversion. It's a heck of a tight fit to add a fuse holder behind the clock in a midyear. I like the idea of adding it onto the end of the existing connectors using spades on either end of the fuse holder - no in dash soldering required!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 40
From: Duxbury MA
If the clock is separately fused (I don't see a fuse labeled "clock" though) why does it need a separate fuse? Couldn't I just put in a lower amp fuse to protect against the contacts from shorting (that's how I interpret the suggestion to put in an additional inline 2 amp fuse)?
Last edited by 70GHH; Apr 4, 2008 at 10:24 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 619
From: northern CA
I must have missed it. Has this been mentioned before? . . That's news to me, too. ..
Along with a battery disconnect I also wired in a mini single pole on/off switch and fuse for the clock. Maybe a bit of overkill. ..
A factory provided hole in the lower right dash panel is the perfect size to hold the switch in place. The clock runs a bit fast. The mini switch helps to 'slow it down' by turning the switch off and on at the appropriate time.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 40
From: Duxbury MA
All done! I took the hint and made a set of "jumper" wires with spade connectors the same size as the ones on the clock (male on one end, female on the other). Just a straight jumper for one connection and one with spades on either end of the fuse wire then just plug them in. Couldn't have been easier. Half hour of work and $5 in parts. Thanks everyone for the input.
While I had the dash apart I sent the radio to D&M Restorations (shamelss plug). They added a plug wire for my iPod from my stock Delco radio that I can tuck up behind the radio when not in use. Very cool, with original appearance.
While I had the dash apart I sent the radio to D&M Restorations (shamelss plug). They added a plug wire for my iPod from my stock Delco radio that I can tuck up behind the radio when not in use. Very cool, with original appearance.
Last edited by 70GHH; Apr 5, 2008 at 08:16 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Usually when the points stick on the mid-year and later clocks it cooks the windings in the clock electro magnet and shuts down. The electro magnet is the part that the points activate when they make contact; it throws the clock winding lever.
The clock is fused in the dash and there really is very minimal risk of a fire from a clock on a Corvette built after 1962.
But. . . There is nothing wrong with taking extra measures either!
The clock is fused in the dash and there really is very minimal risk of a fire from a clock on a Corvette built after 1962.
But. . . There is nothing wrong with taking extra measures either!
Pro
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 722
Likes: 32
From: S.F. ( E. Bay) Calif.
Preventetive measures for contact points?
Is there any maintenence that can be done to help prevent the contact points from sticking? I have a battery disconnect in my 63 that I always use when not in car, but they still get charged when car is started next time and when running.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The only way to do maintenance on the points would be to tear the clock apart! The clock points get little **** on them like the old points in your distributor. The more jagged the points get the less throw from the magnet.
I saw a post the other day on the C3 Forum where a guy took his clock apart and cleaned up his clock. It was pretty detailed and accurate but the clock can comes apart differently on a mid year.
If you do take the clock apart you might try to find this post. The difference in how the clock comes apart would be that you have to remove the stem ****, and the clock can separates in the middle by three crimps. Once you have it apart you can clean the wheel, and the points with a jewelers file.
Willcox Inc
I saw a post the other day on the C3 Forum where a guy took his clock apart and cleaned up his clock. It was pretty detailed and accurate but the clock can comes apart differently on a mid year.
If you do take the clock apart you might try to find this post. The difference in how the clock comes apart would be that you have to remove the stem ****, and the clock can separates in the middle by three crimps. Once you have it apart you can clean the wheel, and the points with a jewelers file.
Willcox Inc
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Hinsdale IL
St. Jude Donor '06
Question: My clock does not work. I can assume it has "burned out" based on the feedback on this thread.
Should I go quartz or just get her redone? Who does this type of work, that can be trusted?
Should I go quartz or just get her redone? Who does this type of work, that can be trusted?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,347
Likes: 36
From: San Clemente CA
Click on Corvette pages, then tech,
Page down to Electrical and check out the clock piece put together by DZVette. If you follow that and the clock still doesn't work ( which happened to me), I just ordered the quartz conversion kit and it took maybe 20 minutes to do the conversion. Hope that helps.
Don