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Hi,
I have a pertronix set-up with a stock coil on my 67 327/300. Should I get a pertronix coil (at higher rpms I do get breakup sometimes) and should I bypass or rewire the ballist resistor?
The stock coil will not live long without the ballast resistor. The Pertronix coil only lasted me a few months then died. I am using a cheapo from Oreilly with the ballast resistor in line from the key switch.
Last edited by magicv8; Apr 23, 2008 at 09:58 PM.
Reason: s
Here's a discussion with more than you want to know about the Pertronix experiences of some Forum members including me. If you're still confused about what's best to do don't feel bad. Even the Pertronix people seem to give different advice when called. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1838536
I had a pretronix set up installed several years ago in my 327/365 with the original ballist and coil, have never had any problems. Can't make any suggestions, not enough knowledge in the ingnition area. sorry
I've had the same setup for two years now. Didn't change anything except the module. Left the ballast resistor as it was and I've had no problems. Original coil too.
You're right, I'm actually not sure what is causing the break up. I have 900 miles on the motor that I completely rebuilt myself. The only other mod that I did besides the Pertronix is a Holly universal instead of the original 3810. I had that one rebuilt/redyed by a "professional" and the thing leaked like hell all over the newly painted block so I gave in a bought the universal. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Could be a bad spark plug wire. Also, I know today's wires are insulated really well but I was always taught to NOT run the #5 and #7 plug wires in parralell (sp?) as they're consecutive in the firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2) and next to each in the head so the natural tendency is to run them through the looms next to each other (I don't use an ignition shield but use Taylor Pro Wires). Again...., just my 2 cents.
I have run a Pertronics ignition & coil for 10 years now and it works great. I do connect to the incoming side of the Ballast Resistor to get 12V all the time. Get some good low resistance plugwires, there are a few brands of good all black (stealth!) wires and keep #5 & 7 away from each other.
I do connect to the incoming side of the Ballast Resistor to get 12V all the time.
Yup, key issue here; the Pertronix red wire that feeds the module wants a full 12 volts. If you connect it to the coil (+) like some guys do, it's only getting 7-8 volts, and won't perform at high rpm.
I installed a Petronix with their Flame thrower coil in my 65 L-79. I hooked it up as per the third diagram in the previous post by passing the ballast resister. When I took it to the shop for a turn signal switch problem the shop guy left the ignition key on during the troubleshooting process. This caused the coil to over heat and burn up the wire all the way back to the ignition switch. (brand new main dash harness installed 1 month prior). The coil actually bulged and the top almost came off . I was lucky that the shop owner noticed the smoke before it would of caused a fire.
Many of the aftermarket points replacement - electronic ignition conversions do not have the automatic shutdown feature that the factory HEI system has (when the distributor is not turning for more than a few seconds the module will shut down), so like a points system current may keep flowing. Since there are no points to burn, the ignition coil may overheat. The only aftermarket points replacement system I know of that has the automatic shutdown feature is the M&H Breakerless SE system.