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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #21  
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I am reading this as flat washers between the water pump flange and the bushing to space the bushing forward. Is that also spacing the pulley forward? Or, the real question, did you shim the center of the pulley forward at the center hole and leave a gap between the water pump flange and the pulley at the bolt holes?

Maybe I'm mis-reading what you did?




[QUOTE=Mossy66; I dropped a couple of flat washers behind the bushing to bring it flush, and I think I'm good to go!
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 05:52 PM
  #22  
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On those Hayden clutches with the brass spacer insert, you need to insert flat washers into the clutch hub before you insert the spacer to make the spacer flush with the hub's mating surface. If not, the spacer sits too deep in the hub to engage the water pump shaft.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 06:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mossy66
Why are my water pumps failing? I've had the car a year now and I need another water pump. This will be the fourth one. The first one failed after I'd owned the car for a month or two, and I thought nothing of it. I replaced it with a water pump from Pep Boys. It was a Bosch unit and it lasted about a week. I think it was junk from the get go. I returned it and got one from NAPA. That one failed today. (bearing sqauealing, or impeller rubbing the back side of pump, but still works)

The engine is a 327 350hp from a '67 corvette. It does not have the correct intake manifold. I am mentioning this because I read something in the archives after doing a search that the high hp cars had a bypass to prevent cavitation? The engine has extra pulleys so I installed a belt from crank to water pump in addition to the alternator belt. I do not believe the belts are too tight

The first and third water pumps failed immediatly after a couple of spirited runs through the gears near redline.

So what do you think, am I just unlucky with water pumps?

Thanks
Gerry
Even though some that lurk here think there is no difference in pumps, take a look at the Stewart water pumps, no spacers required, large bearing and they fit and work, I have three in service.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
I'd at least run a Delco water pump and new Delco fan clutch, 3916141. The aftermarket clutches do not seem to hold up that well, kind of get what you pay for with fan clutches.
Does the new replacement 3916141 Delco fan clutch have a 5/8 inch mating hole, a la the old style original factory fan clutch? ..
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
On those Hayden clutches with the brass spacer insert, you need to insert flat washers into the clutch hub before you insert the spacer to make the spacer flush with the hub's mating surface. If not, the spacer sits too deep in the hub to engage the water pump shaft.
What he said!
Gerry
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by muncieman
Even though some that lurk here think there is no difference in pumps, take a look at the Stewart water pumps, no spacers required, large bearing and they fit and work, I have three in service.
If this one goes, I will be looking to find something better. Thanks.

Gerry
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:27 PM
  #27  
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I don't think there's any question the pumps with the larger bearings last longer. Best I remember the OEM pumps, circa mid '60's were good for 50-80K miles before they started leaking. Of course there were exceptions.

I have a ' 65 and a '66 OEM SB pumps on two different engines that are still working and never been touched.



Originally Posted by muncieman
Even though some that lurk here think there is no difference in pumps, take a look at the Stewart water pumps, no spacers required, large bearing and they fit and work, I have three in service.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:40 PM
  #28  
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For what it's worth, when I go the parts house, there are often two choices in pumps, new and reman. I have always gotten new pumps for my projects as I don't trust of shore reman jobs anymore. Granted, new is probably from of shore, but I have had good luck with new. The price was about 7-10 dollars more for the new.

I gave up years ago on the Autozone, Carquest, Pep Boys, etc. For years I have been using the same parts house that the shops in town use. They may not be convenient or near by, but they have multiple selections, and if they don't have what you want they can get it in a day or two.

Mark
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #29  
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Many of the NAPA outlets (if not all) use water pumps, alternators, generators, alternators and starters that are rebuilt in little mom/pop businesses in this country.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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I would like to know how you get one belt on that connects the water pump and the crank?

Both of those items don't have any adjustment, you would have to force the belt on unless it had an idler wouldn't you? Am I missing something here?

I'm confused.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KC John
I would like to know how you get one belt on that connects the water pump and the crank?

Both of those items don't have any adjustment, you would have to force the belt on unless it had an idler wouldn't you? Am I missing something here?

I'm confused.
You remove the fan and the water pump pulley, put the belt in place on both pulleys, then ease the water pump pulley back over the shaft and line up the holes, etc. Easy.

Plasticman
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by muncieman
Even though some that lurk here think there is no difference in pumps, take a look at the Stewart water pumps, no spacers required, large bearing and they fit and work, I have three in service.
How much do the Stewart pumps cost, and where are they available?
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Plasticman
You remove the fan and the water pump pulley, put the belt in place on both pulleys, then ease the water pump pulley back over the shaft and line up the holes, etc. Easy.

Plasticman
But would that be tight enough? I just have never seen a set-up like this before on any type of machinery. Usually a set-up like this would require an idler pulley. I'm certainly no expert, and even though you should not make a belt tight to prevent premature wear on the bearings, I don't see how this could be tight enough. I guess there is a lot off things about these cars that are not usual.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by KC John
But would that be tight enough? I just have never seen a set-up like this before on any type of machinery. Usually a set-up like this would require an idler pulley. I'm certainly no expert, and even though you should not make a belt tight to prevent premature wear on the bearings, I don't see how this could be tight enough. I guess there is a lot off things about these cars that are not usual.
Chevy did it themselves during the late 60's/early 70's that I know of (on passenger cars). And it is certainly tight "enough", since you start at an angle when putting on the water pump pulley with the belt on it (the angle lowers the top edge of the pulley which lessens the tension on the belt), until the pulley gets on the pump shaft. Also, the belt is running with about 180 degrees of pulley contact, so the belt does not have to be "tight-tight".

Proper sizing of the belt is very important obviously, but if GM did it, it certainly works (and provides a backup for the water pump if the other belt gets thrown or damaged). You can always get to a service station or home if the alternator is not functioning, but you do need to keep that water pump rotating!

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Jun 18, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense. I learn something new every day.
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 12:34 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mrg
Does the new replacement 3916141 Delco fan clutch have a 5/8 inch mating hole, a la the old style original factory fan clutch? ..
Yes, it does - it's an Eaton clutch, and is virtually identical to the original Eaton clutch; I have one on my '67.
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kbuhagiar
How much do the Stewart pumps cost, and where are they available?
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...y_Code=ChevyS1

current price $78.95

Not having to remove the A-C compressor and the pump every year, priceless.........

Last edited by magicv8; Jun 20, 2008 at 12:06 PM.
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