Replace C1 shift boot
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Newtown PA
Replace C1 shift boot
I would like to replace the shift boot on my 1960 Roadster but can't seem to see how to do it. The old shift boot edging goes under a plate that also houses the ash tray. There are 2 screws on the plate but they are very short and appear to only hold on the shift pattern. Can anyone tell me what I have to do to replace my torn boot?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
1) Remove the 2 screws that hold the shift pattern
2) Remove shift pattern
3) Then you'll find one or two screws that hold the shift plate to the transmission tunnel. Remove the screws
4) Shift plate should lift out
Note that some repro shift boots have a metal edge bonded to the rubber, some don't (or didn't 20 years ago). The ones without the metal edge bonded to the rubber would tend to pull out of the lower left corner of the shift plate on 3rd gear shifts.
2) Remove shift pattern
3) Then you'll find one or two screws that hold the shift plate to the transmission tunnel. Remove the screws
4) Shift plate should lift out
Note that some repro shift boots have a metal edge bonded to the rubber, some don't (or didn't 20 years ago). The ones without the metal edge bonded to the rubber would tend to pull out of the lower left corner of the shift plate on 3rd gear shifts.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,619
Likes: 4,671
From: Mustang OK
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2025 c1 of the Year - Modified Winner
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
1) Remove the 2 screws that hold the shift pattern
2) Remove shift pattern
3) Then you'll find one or two screws that hold the shift plate to the transmission tunnel. Remove the screws
4) Shift plate should lift out
Note that some repro shift boots have a metal edge bonded to the rubber, some don't (or didn't 20 years ago). The ones without the metal edge bonded to the rubber would tend to pull out of the lower left corner of the shift plate on 3rd gear shifts.
2) Remove shift pattern
3) Then you'll find one or two screws that hold the shift plate to the transmission tunnel. Remove the screws
4) Shift plate should lift out
Note that some repro shift boots have a metal edge bonded to the rubber, some don't (or didn't 20 years ago). The ones without the metal edge bonded to the rubber would tend to pull out of the lower left corner of the shift plate on 3rd gear shifts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 99
From: Boston MA
I've got the Paragon boot. It's pretty good, and an improvement over the original.
Don't overstress the 2 nuts that hold the 2 screws that hold the shift plate. They attach somehow to the underneath of the fiberglass tunnel floor. If you break them, you'll have the opportunity to go in there and hold the nut while your helper does the screw and driver from above. You'll see that they're sorta flimsy.
Don't overstress the 2 nuts that hold the 2 screws that hold the shift plate. They attach somehow to the underneath of the fiberglass tunnel floor. If you break them, you'll have the opportunity to go in there and hold the nut while your helper does the screw and driver from above. You'll see that they're sorta flimsy.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,619
Likes: 4,671
From: Mustang OK
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2025 c1 of the Year - Modified Winner
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
I've got the Paragon boot. It's pretty good, and an improvement over the original.
Don't overstress the 2 nuts that hold the 2 screws that hold the shift plate. They attach somehow to the underneath of the fiberglass tunnel floor. If you break them, you'll have the opportunity to go in there and hold the nut while your helper does the screw and driver from above. You'll see that they're sorta flimsy.
Don't overstress the 2 nuts that hold the 2 screws that hold the shift plate. They attach somehow to the underneath of the fiberglass tunnel floor. If you break them, you'll have the opportunity to go in there and hold the nut while your helper does the screw and driver from above. You'll see that they're sorta flimsy.
Sooooooooooooo, I got a strip of fairly thick stainless sheet metal, drilled holes to match the plate, tapped holes to match the screw threads (seems like 10-32 threads) and pop riveted the stainless to the underside of the fiberglass. Can't be seen, unless you crawl under the car with a flashlight with the intention of looking for it. Only a fool (or NCRS judge) would do that!
