Oil Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
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From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Oil Question
Is one engine oil better than the others for the additives needed? I know a lot of guys are using Rotella. Does that still apply or has Shell taken the additives out of that also? I will be re-doing the 32 and the vette.
Steve
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,513
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From: columbus ohio
in central ohio the rotella is cj i believe. meaning the zddp is less. i just use rotella in the vette and nailhead and put a bottle of zddp in. next year
i plan to go with brad penn or amsoil. good luck jim
if you have a roller cam don't worry.
i plan to go with brad penn or amsoil. good luck jim
if you have a roller cam don't worry.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
OK. Thanks. Will look for the necessary code on the oil. Been using Valvoline but I know that they supposedly took out the additive. So am going to change.
Steve
Steve
Drifting
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From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Oil with enough zddp
Just find a WalMart near you, and buy their "Super Tech Universal" motor oil. It's 15W-40 CI-4 rated Diesel Motor Oil. It has more ZDDP than the latest "CJ-4" classification oil, and it's made by Quaker State. I always keep at least 10 gallon jugs on hand.
RON
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 1
From: Rossmoor, CA
I recently had a nice long talk with a college friend of mine now working with the big wheels at Royal Dutch Shell Oil Company about the proper grades of lubricants for an older vehicle that I had totally rebuilt.
If I wanted to use conventional motor oil I should go with Castrol and a zddp additive.
I should never use a higher viscosity oil than was spec. for obvious reasons or one rated for diesel engines because of the different additives for different seal types, soot etc, etc.
If I was going to use synthetic, make sure that I had compatible engine seals and pick any decent brand. He loathed Mobil 1 and thought Castrol was the best because they have the largest R&D dept. of any of the oil companies.
I did go synthetic and now with no leaks and a flat tappet engine at 40k miles I have no problems at all. The advantage that I see is that there is no rattle when the engine is started cold. Synthetic has better adhesion properties and sticks around better is why.
My 2 cents. Jason
If I wanted to use conventional motor oil I should go with Castrol and a zddp additive.
I should never use a higher viscosity oil than was spec. for obvious reasons or one rated for diesel engines because of the different additives for different seal types, soot etc, etc.
If I was going to use synthetic, make sure that I had compatible engine seals and pick any decent brand. He loathed Mobil 1 and thought Castrol was the best because they have the largest R&D dept. of any of the oil companies.
I did go synthetic and now with no leaks and a flat tappet engine at 40k miles I have no problems at all. The advantage that I see is that there is no rattle when the engine is started cold. Synthetic has better adhesion properties and sticks around better is why.
My 2 cents. Jason
Team Owner
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From: Washington Michigan
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Wake Forest NC
Nope. Seal compatibility isn't an issue, and oil has nothing to do with soot; the soot reduction results from the new low-sulphur diesel fuel and high-pressure electronically-controlled injection, not the oil. CJ-4 or CI-4 diesel oil of the recommended viscosity will work just fine, without any extra additives.
Thanks......
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Drifting
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From: Wi
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Rossmoor, CA
Well it kind of made sense to me because there is always blow by in an engine and diesel fuel is a different deal than gas. Consequently it seemed logical that there would be different additives. Diesels still have EGR valves and soot and other things are still present in blow by gases.
As for the seals I didn't explain right. He said that if you have a regular car with older seals, don't switch to synthetic because it contains seal sweller and cleaning/conditioning additives that will muck things up and cause leaks more likely than not.
What it came down to was that the blow by gases are different and so there are different additives to counteract what those gases do.
as for 15w its alright in the summer but its a couple of seconds at cold start for every change in weight to get it circulated fully.
As for the seals I didn't explain right. He said that if you have a regular car with older seals, don't switch to synthetic because it contains seal sweller and cleaning/conditioning additives that will muck things up and cause leaks more likely than not.
What it came down to was that the blow by gases are different and so there are different additives to counteract what those gases do.
as for 15w its alright in the summer but its a couple of seconds at cold start for every change in weight to get it circulated fully.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Maryland
Viscosity choice is predicated on the lowest anticipated starting temperature and the highest outdoor temperature. 15W-40 is okay down to 15*F starting and over 100* F outside temp. Higher viscosity oils are only necssary for loose clearance engines. 5W-40 CJ -4 oil is available in synthetic mode and is okay for starts of -10* F.
Melting Slicks
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From: Maryland
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: CT
For the last quart add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. It will lower the viscosity and does a great job in keeping everything inside nice & clean. It's been around since the 1920s and I have never read or heard anyone who had a problem with it. I've used it for years in all my old cars and it does a superior job in keeping the insides of the engine - lifters, valves and pistons clean and free of any deposits.
