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Those of you that have pulled the body off of the frame, does the dolly give you any room to clean the underbody? If not what is the secret to doing that without building a body jig of some sort or having a means to hang it high enough to get under it. I am restricted with 8ft ceiling and no means of taking body outside with a bobcat or loader?
Are you buying a dolly? I built my own to do a friends frame off and it had the body about 4' off the ground which would have been sufficient for sitting up while working on the underside.
Thanks for the information! Yes I am using the Nolan Adams plan that I got off of this site. So I will check to see how high the hoist will lift the body so I can add to the height. I was hoping I wouldn't have to build or buy a jig or similiar device. That just adds expense to the project. Also I am torn on what to do with the body off. The person whom I purchased the 64 had the entire suspension replaced so I was hoping to just clean up the frame, rust proof and paint. But now people are telling me I am crazy if I don't completely disassemble and have the frame media blasted and powder coated. Those of you who have done body offs what are your thoughts and recommendations? My car is an original driver I don't care about it being Bloomington Gold perfect. The reason I am doing this is the gas and brake lines are original and look questionable so I want to replace them.
When I did my body off project I wire brushed the entire frame using an air grinder with a very aggressive wire wheel. Then painted it with POR15. If you don't like the glossy finish you can use POR15 chassis coat black which is more of a dull finish.
Roy
My dolly is basically a big rectangle with removable legs. Shown are the short legs used when painting. The "long" legs give you another 18" which was great for de-gunking the body underside. Used EMT thinwall conduit for bracing. Works just great.
The only change I will make next time is to create a narrowed front section from the firewall forward. Like Noland's "2 boxes" concept. This will allow easy entrance to the engine bay via the wheelwells. Just need to add 2 more wheels where the boxes join together.
Last edited by Mike Geary; Nov 1, 2008 at 05:36 PM.
Reason: spelling correct
When I did my body off project I wire brushed the entire frame using an air grinder with a very aggressive wire wheel. Then painted it with POR15. If you don't like the glossy finish you can use POR15 chassis coat black which is more of a dull finish.
Roy
That looks great.
Por-15 has to be painted on, I believe.
Does it end up looking like there are brush lines, or does it settle and appear smooth when done?
That looks great.
Por-15 has to be painted on, I believe.
Does it end up looking like there are brush lines, or does it settle and appear smooth when done?
As it dries the brush marks totally disappear and it is very smooth. It goes a long way. 1 quart did everything. If I remember correctly it took me about 40 hours to get the frame finished.
Roy
Thanks for the information! Yes I am using the Nolan Adams plan that I got off of this site. So I will check to see how high the hoist will lift the body so I can add to the height. I was hoping I wouldn't have to build or buy a jig or similiar device. That just adds expense to the project. Also I am torn on what to do with the body off. The person whom I purchased the 64 had the entire suspension replaced so I was hoping to just clean up the frame, rust proof and paint. But now people are telling me I am crazy if I don't completely disassemble and have the frame media blasted and powder coated. Those of you who have done body offs what are your thoughts and recommendations? My car is an original driver I don't care about it being Bloomington Gold perfect. The reason I am doing this is the gas and brake lines are original and look questionable so I want to replace them.
I've resisted pulling my body off twice over the last 30 years I've owned the car just knowing that I'll end up doing so much more than necessary just to keep driving it. It was bad enough that when I first bought it I pulled the entire interior out including dash but I resisted on the body off. Then several years ago I pulled the engine for some minor work and cleaned the engine compartment and front crossmember while it was out. I also removed the differential and rear crossmember and had the bearings replaced. And dropped the gas tank to have it cleaned and sealed.
Oh yeah, one last thing...I replaced all the body mounts! All that and I still didn't pull the body off! You know why? Because I did all the above within a few weeks time and if I had pulled the body, it would have stretched out into months before I was driving it again.
My dolly is basically a big rectangle with removable legs. Shown are the short legs used when painting. The "long" legs give you another 18" which was great for de-gunking the body underside. Used EMT thinwall conduit for bracing. Works just great.
The only change I will make next time is to create a narrowed front section from the firewall forward. Like Noland's "2 boxes" concept. This will allow easy entrance to the engine bay via the wheelwells. Just need to add 2 more wheels where the boxes join together.
I've built one like this in the shop for painting and moving the body around, and it works great. For cleaning the underside of the body, however, you need to get it up in the air. I suppose you could crib up this dolly to make it high enough for the cleaning, but you still need to lay on your back, dirt in the face, etc. A rotisserie is great for this, but doesn't make sense if you're only doing one or two jobs.
What would be great is to take the Noland Adams design and add metal scaffolding type legs with pin height adjustments. This way you could raise and lower the body as needed with some friend help. I would rather grind the frame and do the hard muscle work than have to totally disassemble the front and rear suspensions.
67-427ci, what procedure and materials did you use on your gas tank?
Hi Louis: Not much really. I made sure the inside was clean, replaced the pick-up screen, filler pipe & sending unit gasket, wire brushed the outside to remove the surface rust and then primed and painted it with Rust-Oleum black in a rattle can. I also replaced the cork anti-squeak strips and mounting straps. My car is a driver so I am not worried about what color it is. My goal was to prevent future rust.
Roy
When I did my body off project I wire brushed the entire frame using an air grinder with a very aggressive wire wheel. Then painted it with POR15. If you don't like the glossy finish you can use POR15 chassis coat black which is more of a dull finish.
Roy
That looks great.
Por-15 has to be painted on, I believe.
Does it end up looking like there are brush lines, or does it settle and appear smooth when done?
I used the POR-15 Chassis coat and not that thrilled with the performance. It scratches easier than I thought. The brush marks go away. Its messy, you want to make sure you seal the can in between work. I used a place that dips entire car frames and metal bodys to remove the rust. Looked fantastic but between the cost and hours I spent painting, I would have come out better dropping it off at the powder coating place and letting them do all of it. They did my rear end cross member and it looks fantastic.
Using a high dolly will enable you to sit on a stool and do whatever work you want. Lifting from 2 points will enable you to get the body high enough with the 8ft ceiling. I've heard of guys using trailer jacks on each side of the body to lift it up - maybe someone will chime in who has done that. Jerry
How tall is this dolly? It looks awesome, did you use a variation of the Nolan Adams dolly?
Same dimensions as the Nolan schematic but 40” high if I remember correctly. The front/rear is supported at the body mounts with 2x4 cut to length. If you go higher you’ll also need some extra side-to-side bracing on the dolly.
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