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I really don't like the stock C1 motor mount, it limits what you can do with real nice after market pulleys etc. and sooner or later it will leak
Aside from welding in side mounts, has anyone fabricated a front mount that does not sit behind the water pump, maybe off the lower holes in the front of the block???
Wally,
As a matter fact, John Neas has a set of front mounts that completely replaces the crossover mount.
When I was at this place a few weeks ago, I saw them but didn't take pictures of them.
They attach to the frame/cushing mounts exactly the same way that the crossover mounts attaches, and are fabricated to attach to the two lower engine mount holes that were originally used on 55-57 passenger cars. I don't know when I'll be back up in Tulsa, but the next time I'm there, I'll take pictures of the mounts.
John,
If you read this, can you take some pictures of your mounts and post them.
Wally,
As a matter fact, John Neas has a set of front mounts that completely replaces the crossover mount.
When I was at this place a few weeks ago, I saw them but didn't take pictures of them.
They attach to the frame/cushing mounts exactly the same way that the crossover mounts attaches, and are fabricated to attach to the two lower engine mount holes that were originally used on 55-57 passenger cars. I don't know when I'll be back up in Tulsa, but the next time I'm there, I'll take pictures of the mounts.
John,
If you read this, can you take some pictures of your mounts and post them.
I put a 383 in the other chassis and would like to put a slick pulley setup on the motor. Maybe he would like to build a set and sell them to me
In the C1, the front motor mount has to withstand the torque reaction of the engine. And of course torque is Force X Distance.
Since the '55-'57 front motor mount holes are significantly closer to the crank centerline than are the water pump holes, the forces seen at these points will be greater than those seen at the water pump holes.
This would be a good thing to keep in mind while designing a mounting scheme that utilizes the lower holes. Particularly so if the intent is to install an engine capable of more torque than the original, factory installed engine. (Note that when these holes were used in the Tri-five Chebbys, they were not required to endure the engine's torque reaction; they saw vertical forces only.)
In the C1, the front motor mount has to withstand the torque reaction of the engine. And of course torque is Force X Distance.
Since the '55-'57 front motor mount holes are significantly closer to the crank centerline than are the water pump holes, the forces seen at these points will be greater than those seen at the water pump holes.
This would be a good thing to keep in mind while designing a mounting scheme that utilizes the lower holes. Particularly so if the intent is to install an engine capable of more torque than the original, factory installed engine. (Note that when these holes were used in the Tri-five Chebbys, they were not required to endure the engine's torque reaction; they saw vertical forces only.)
Jim
So the front mount on a 55 saw no torque load, that means the cheesie mounts on the side of the bell housing caught all the engine torque??? Seems a little strange to assume that all torsional torque generated by the motor would be applied to the rear mounts and none to the front mounts, just vertical torque. So there is no twisting on the front mounts of a 55 chevy?????
Tell you what, I'll take my chances with the mount relocated and see what happens.
You could alway do what GM did in the 60s when the had all those junk motor mounts, they did a factory recall and put a cable strap from the motor mount to the upper control arm shaft. Not very pretty but it worked.
So the front mount on a 55 saw no torque load, that means the cheesie mounts on the side of the bell housing caught all the engine torque??? Seems a little strange to assume that all torsional torque generated by the motor would be applied to the rear mounts and none to the front mounts, just vertical torque. So there is no twisting on the front mounts of a 55 chevy?????
Tell you what, I'll take my chances with the mount relocated and see what happens.
You could alway do what GM did in the 60s when the had all those junk motor mounts, they did a factory recall and put a cable strap from the motor mount to the upper control arm shaft. Not very pretty but it worked.
as an uneducated guess, i'd have to agree with Jim that the bellhousing mounts resisted the torque and the front mounts carried mostly dead weight...
...has a set of front mounts that completely replaces the crossover mount... ...They attach to the frame/cushing mounts exactly the same way that the crossover mounts attaches, and are fabricated to attach to the two lower engine mount holes that were originally used on 55-57 passenger cars...
..Hurst had these motor mounts for tri-five chevy's and vettes back in the 60's & 70's. They're curved angle iron or aluminum shaped similar to 1/2 of a horse collar that cradles the block from below - mounts to stock cushions. You still see them occasionally on ebay.
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So the front mount on a 55 saw no torque load, that means the cheesie mounts on the side of the bell housing caught all the engine torque??? Seems a little strange to assume that all torsional torque generated by the motor would be applied to the rear mounts and none to the front mounts, just vertical torque. So there is no twisting on the front mounts of a 55 chevy?????
That's correct. The bellhousing mounts were the point where the torque reaction was taken.
The front mounts support the engine on small, rubber cushioned, vertical spindles no larger in diameter than, oh, 7/16" or so. There is no possible way they could take any torque.
Something else I noticed after my earlier posting..... the front mount bosses on the passenger side of the block appear to my eye to be less "beefy" than the bosses at the water pump.
Personally, I'd have some reservations about relying on those mount bosses to withstand engine torque. BUT.... nothing succeeds like success and there must be a reason why J. C. Whitney, back in the day, sold engine conversion kits that utilized them.
This is the 350 mounted in my 51 Chevy with Hurst engine mounts. I bought them and installed the first V8 in it back in the 60s when Hurst was making an assortment of mounts for various cars. The mount that is bolted to the block is a crossover mount that goes down under the balancer and the mounts on the frame are called frame adapters. You bought one mount for the engine of choice, then bought seperate frame mounts for whatever car the engine was to be installed in.
I used the 2 lower front mounts in our Hilborn injected SBC powered 23 T Altered Roadster drag car with a solid 1/4" thick aluminum "engine plate". Rear was just a solid mount to the trans. Never had any issues with mounts breaking or engines falling out.
But Chevy obviously had an issue with using those lower mounts on the C1 Vettes for some reason.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; Feb 3, 2009 at 09:37 PM.
I have side mounts and it cleared the steering box no problem.
Karpo
you're right, it won't hit the gearbox as the gearbox is on the other side of the frame, but my motor mount bracket would have interfered with the pitman arm and the stop bracket.
if you use the #1 and #3 sparkplugs in the pictures as reference points, you can see where the new motor mount bracket attaches to the frame in relationship to where the arm/stop are.
This is the 350 mounted in my 51 Chevy with Hurst engine mounts. I bought them and installed the first V8 in it back in the 60s when Hurst was making an assortment of mounts for various cars. The mount that is bolted to the block is a crossover mount that goes down under the balancer and the mounts on the frame are called frame adapters. You bought one mount for the engine of choice, then bought seperate frame mounts for whatever car the engine was to be installed in.
Tom Parsons
I think I found something I can work with. Speedway sells this.
Yep I know I'm being hard headed but I want to clean the front of the heads off for a better pulley system.
I think I found something I can work with. Speedway sells this.
Yep I know I'm being hard headed but I want to clean the front of the heads off for a better pulley system.
it will be a 'start', but you're going to have to figure out some way to get to the top of the original frame mounts and still not interfere with the pulley system like the original mount system would.
I think I found something I can work with. Speedway sells this.
Yep I know I'm being hard headed but I want to clean the front of the heads off for a better pulley system.
When you receive that from Speedway (don't they have a lot of "interesting" parts?), I'd like to know if the mount is welded at more than just the two places visible in the photo. Could you post a follow-up picture of the actual mount they send?
When you receive that from Speedway (don't they have a lot of "interesting" parts?), I'd like to know if the mount is welded at more than just the two places visible in the photo. Could you post a follow-up picture of the actual mount they send?
Jim
I think the problem is going to be the that the mount is far lower than the original mount, nearly in line with the two lower bolt hole in the block. The stock mount lines up with the water pump holes
I'm going to get one, not all that pricey, and have a look at what needs to be done.