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I have seen several C2's that look to be lowered. I like the look and would consider it, depending on what takes place. I would like to lower the car about an inch+, nothing too obvious, but get a more aggressive stance, without altering the ride too much. I just put a new VP&P spring in the rear with new gas shocks and the car rides/handles great. Just chasing an aggressive look. Thanks for your input, even if you think I'm out of line.
Use VB&P 10" rear lowering bolts for the rear spring and order their front springs which are about 1" shorter. Just make sure you have complimentary spring rates front and rear. VB&P should be able to set you up.
I agree w/the above.I am a dealer for VBP,but never priced the 10" bolts.I went to Fastenal,and got 10" grade 8s,and had a local machine shop thread them higher up the shank for more adjustment.I had about 27.00 bucks in them.
I agree w/the above.I am a dealer for VBP,but never priced the 10" bolts.I went to Fastenal,and got 10" grade 8s,and had a local machine shop thread them higher up the shank for more adjustment.I had about 27.00 bucks in them.
If you want to save even more money just pull the front springs and cut a 1/2 coil off. Then you can use those 10" grade 8 bolts for the rear to get the stance you are after.
If you drop the height go to a lower porfile tire, you can lower the car and not modify the suspension, try a 55 or 60 profile, then when you want to go back to original height it is very easy.
Thanks for the advice, and the kind words about the car. I am running 245/50-16 on 8" wide rims right now (offset trailing arms) and considered something even lower profile. A 245/45-16 is an inch smaller O.D. That would lower the car 1/2". I am considering this on the fronts only, to see what the look is. The problem I have is that Pirelli doesn't make this style tire any more, so I would have to mix the tread design, which will look silly. But, then again, if I was happy with that look, I could buy replacements for the rear. I will call VB&P tomorrow to get their thoughts. Thanks again! Joe
I'm running 17x7 inch wheels on all 4 corners with 225x45 on front and 225x50 on the rear using the VB&P Performance Plus system. With this set-up I was able to lower the front approx. 5 1/2" (using 10" bolts) and the rear 3 1/2" with more to go but I have to admit the car was a nose bleeder before I started. The height of the wheel well is now 1 inch above the front wheel lip and approx. 3 inches above the rear wheel lip. If need be, to give you a better idea, the car can be seen at www.cardomain.com. Search champdesigns and click on "View this Ride".
I installed Vette Brake Products Front Transverse Conversion Kit which includes lower control arms & fiberglass Monospring and Rear fiberglass Monospring. Both front & rear have LONG bolt for up/down adjustment. 17*7 w/4" backspace wheels - P225/50 tires all 4 corners.
Now, we're talking! Vettegozzz, that is a sweet stance, and Black_Magic, what a perfect ride. This is the look I am chasing. Thanks to all with your pics. Ron C., that is something special you are are riding in, love that look. You are all convincing me to drop down a notch. Thanks!
I installed Vette Brake Products Front Transverse Conversion Kit which includes lower control arms & fiberglass Monospring and Rear fiberglass Monospring. Both front & rear have LONG bolt for up/down adjustment. 17*7 w/4" backspace wheels - P225/50 tires all 4 corners.
George
George,
I never get tired of seeing pics of your car I recently bought a 65 coupe just because I liked yours so much!! Perfect stance, next best thing to an SRIII chassis
Something else to think about. To add another dimension to the look or stance of the car,
the backspace of my front wheels we're addressed to pull the front wheels "inward" 3/4 inches more than those on the back. This gives the car a completely different look when you look down the side of the car.
Ron, do you have all stock front end components? If so, I am curious whether you had to install steering stops of some kind. It seems you could have some serious rub. I have 8" wide rims, and extreme rights or lefts, under power, well, I shouldn't go there. I may consider 7" up front and 8" in the rear. I hate to go too crazy, but I like the front monospring setup from VB&P. It would be easy to just install new shorter springs, and longer bolts for the rear. decisions, decisions....
Joe,
With the VB&P Performance Plus system you eliminate all stock front end components...the kit comes complete to up-grade the whole suspension. I also did not need to install steering stops since I used a 17x7 inch wheel and a smaller tire. To this day I cannot understand how you folks get an 18 inch wheel (esp. 8 inch wide ) to work on these cars and esp. on the rear. All of my measurements simply tell me it doesn't work w/o stretched quarters, etc. Since my roots came from the hot rod world....I wanted desperately to run 17x7 front and 18x8 rears but had to settle on 17x7's on all 4 corners. In closing, there are better systems out there but for my needs and budget, VP&P was the way to go. My goal was to purchase the car and finish for under $100k (minus my labor)
George,
I never get tired of seeing pics of your car I recently bought a 65 coupe just because I liked yours so much!! Perfect stance, next best thing to an SRIII chassis
R/Jeff
Jeff
Thanks that comming from you who owns the vette that I would love to have is overwhelming
Gimme1MoreC1 (Joe)
Here is a little info on the VBP front & rear components as I installed ===> Click Here
Just a word of caution, when you lower the rear to the point that the half shafts go past horizontal, every small bump will result in toe out when the rear wheels travel upward causing bump steer. Also in a corner the outboard rear wheel will start toeing out as it gets more load put on it, the faster you go the more load and the more toe out.
I like them sitting low, but they just don't drive or handle as well unless you really stiffen them up so as to limit rear suspension travel.