My experience too. When you look at the adaptors the only thing holding the filter on are the two small (1/4 or 5/16?) screws that hold the adaptor to the block. Granted that's also the case with the factory spin on. But in its case, as the filter is tightened, it tensions (effectively tightens) the screws. Not so when you tighten the filter with the adaptor.

I know there are lots of positive experiences with them, but the adaptors are just not a good design.

Harry

 

That is a lame argument. Remember the spin on filter is only supposed to be "HAND" tightened. You don't use a filter wrench to install it.

 

That may be John. And like I said, there is lots of positive experience with these things. I just wound up on the negative side, and tried to figure out why. With the OE set up, even when its hand tight, you know its at least hand tight, and sealed directly against the machined surface of the block. Not the case with the adaptor.

Harry

 

Not all spin on filters have a by-pass set up.
I used a Baldwin 1441 because it is the correct size and has a by-pass in the filter.

 

Does anyone know if the Napa gold 1060 has the by-pass?

 

I used the GM resto parts adapter and it leaked like mad. When the engine came out of the car, I checked it out and the gasket had not properly seated.. I think it is very difficult to install this thing without a hoist of some kind so that it all goes together correctly. I had the engine on a stand and inverted it during re-assembly and I used a Ford adapter that works a lot better. The only minus is that I use Ford threaded filters now, not a big deal as it doesn't leak at all...

 

I'm currently going through the process of installling the Mr Gasket kit (from Corvette Central) & orginal bypass valve to my bb, but I can't stop a small oil leak. I know it must be the spin on adapter because if I put the adapter on rotated 180 degrees, then the oil leak moves with it. So I have ordered another kit from CC, at $16.95, it's no big deal.

I would advise using longer bolts than are supplied with the kit. It comes with 1/4-20 2" HT bolts, so I'm using 21/2" HT bolts. Apparently a bolt needs least 1 1/2 times it's diameter threaded in to gain a full strength grip.

On the spin on part unscrewing, the 13/16" part in the Mr Gasket kit needed considerable force to screw it into the adapter, so that with some lok-tite will secure it with no problems.

If you don't use the Mr Gasket kit, make sure the kit you get has a 13/16'' spin-on section, because some aparently have a 3/4" thread and the filters are much harder to find & more expensive than a PF24, I know because my bb came to me with a 3/4" threaded adapter.

And as already reported, it is a 3 handed job, so don't be in a hurry. The trick is to get everything to stay up in the cavity while you get the holes lined up & install the bolts. It's not too bad with all parts dry, but they won't stay up there if you use any type of sealant.

 

the main problem here in my opinion is the large o ring seal....i have always removed the original aluminum adapter and cleaned it in solvent or replaced it with a new one with a new chack valve....then install the new o ring on the adapter just down from the top lip....you can spray with some wd or what ever to be sure the o ring slips in without any binding...it does take 3 hands!! so to speak but after you install the pipe and the small seal it really is not that bad ....then install the two pieces as a unit...the good news is you just have to do it once instead of replacing the o ring every time you replaced the canister type filter.....good luck

 

I remember why I'm going to use longer bolts now, it's so that I can grind the threads off the first 1/4" to help get all the pieces & gasket lined up, because it can be very hard to do and get the bolts to screw in with the blunt end of the bolt even if you use a spike to do the line up first.

 

No! There is a large threaded piece in the adapter kit that goes into the middle of the adapter that the oil filter tightens on to. I am saying to put Lok Tite on the upper threads on this part (where it goes into the adapter) so that unscrewing a filter later on doesn't also unscrew the threaded piece from the adapter.

 

that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure, thanks fd

 

I guess I am the lone ranger here but after 37 years of seating that gasket for the cannister I'm getting real good at it . I'm sticking with the old cannister.

 

If I hadn't had that one, heart-stopping massive oil loss from my original canister I might have stayed pat too. By dumb luck and paranoid watchfulness of the oil gauges I avoided a disaster with that technology and have no desire to relive the event.

Frank

 

i'm in agreement with capevettes. i too still use and prefer the original cannister with no problems.(and use the napa gold filter # 1143).. although at times in the past, i have used the spin on.

 

I'm with you, I don't see a problem with the cannister, how often are you changing your oil once or twice a year?

 

I change mine every 1000 miles, about once a month... How can you go 6-12,000 miles without an oil change????

 

I get to put about 1 or 2 thousand miles on my 2 cars and change the oil once a year. Changing your oil once a month at 1 thousand miles is nuts.

 

not when you live in a climate like this - 112 days over 100 degrees last year.. lots of stop and go ... oil is cheap...