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I’m looking for a recommendation for a good glazing putty for use as a skin coat on some large repair areas (’59 Corvette). I have the new fiberglass pretty well smoothed out but there are still some pin holes and high/low spots to fill. Since these are rather large areas (rear fender flares and big wide hood scoop) I need something that flows easily and has a long cure time.
In looking at the Evercoat products I see that their Polyester Glazing Putty seems to be the only product that states specifically that it can be used on fiberglass. Anyone used this product? Any other recommendations?
traditional 'glazing putty' is usually just thick primer (often lacquer based, not that there is anything wrong with that....) in a tube. a sprayable catalyzed polyester is a better idea.
Bill
OK, perhaps glazing putty is the wrong nomenclature. What I am looking for is a low viscosity (something with about the consistency of tooth paste), hand applied (too thick to spray), two part (not lacquer based) filler with a long cure time.
Bill, I've heard to stay away from the lacquer based putty's. It will shrink over time and cause problems. Back in the 80's,I always used that red Nitro Stan stuff.
It was before the new formulations. I think everyone in the world use to use it Better things out there these days.
The one I was looking at is the Euro-Soft® product: "An extra strong polyester glazing putty. Ideally suited for repairs subject to stress and impact, such as door edges, fender edges, body seams and flexible bumpers. It’s a smooth formula with extra working time for use in warm weather and glazing large areas. Contains ZNX-7™ for superior adhesion to galvanized steel, bare steel, aluminum, SMC, E-coat and OEM finishes. Part of the MetalWorks® System."
This is the only product that I have seen that says anything specifically about a longer cure time, but this one does not mention fiberglass.
Charles
Contains ZNX-7™ for superior adhesion to galvanized steel, bare steel, aluminum, SMC , E-coat and OEM finishes. Part of the MetalWorks® System."
This is the only product that I have seen that says anything specifically about a longer cure time, but this one does not mention fiberglass.
Charles
Fiberglass is not specifically mentioned but SMC (sheet-molded compound) is. Late model Corvette body panels are made of SMC.
i searched their website and can't find a 100416.
Bill
Thats the part number on the container. The 100414 has zinc in it for bare metal(FWIW). They come in a green and white squeeze container and is a glaze for finishing body work or small repairs. Its good stuff.
OK, perhaps glazing putty is the wrong nomenclature. What I am looking for is a low viscosity (something with about the consistency of tooth paste), hand applied (too thick to spray), two part (not lacquer based) filler with a long cure time.
Charles
I think you want the evercoat polyester based one (blue can), any of the other stuff I'm familiar with shrinks too much.
Charles.
Thats the one you want. I use it every day in my body shop. We run about 45 cars a month thru my shop and have never had a problem with that product.
I have used it on every vette I have done for myself and customers. My 60 and 66 have been done for years now and still look like the day I finished them. Buy plenty of it you will find it makes your finish work much easier.
Charles.
Thats the one you want. I use it every day in my body shop. We run about 45 cars a month thru my shop and have never had a problem with that product.
I have used it on every vette I have done for myself and customers. My 60 and 66 have been done for years now and still look like the day I finished them. Buy plenty of it you will find it makes your finish work much easier.
Brian G.
Brian:
I bought a container of Metal Glaze the other day but I haven't tried it out yet. The consistency looks like what I was hoping for. Any tips for applying a uniformly thick coat to a large flat surface? I was thinking of using a tile trowel (one with slots cut in the edge) to spread it.
Brian:
I bought a container of Metal Glaze the other day but I haven't tried it out yet. The consistency looks like what I was hoping for. Any tips for applying a uniformly thick coat to a large flat surface? I was thinking of using a tile trowel (one with slots cut in the edge) to spread it.
Charles
gosh Charles, i'd sure hate to have to sand all those ridges out.... why not a simple plastic bondo squeegie? i'd sure use spray on Slick Sand before i'd go to all that work...
Bill
gosh Charles, i'd sure hate to have to sand all those ridges out.... why not a simple plastic bondo squeegie? i'd sure use spray on Slick Sand before i'd go to all that work...
Bill
Bill:
The grooved side of tile trowel is used just to get a uniform height, then you can flip it over and use the smooth side to even out the the ridges, or, in this case, you could use a plastic squeegee to smooth it out. I just have never been able to get a uniform thickness using just a squeegee, especially over a large area.
Brian:
I bought a container of Metal Glaze the other day but I haven't tried it out yet. The consistency looks like what I was hoping for. Any tips for applying a uniformly thick coat to a large flat surface? I was thinking of using a tile trowel (one with slots cut in the edge) to spread it.
Charles
I always use a bondo squeegie. I use them every day so I can put on a very even coat. If your easy on the hardner you will see you have plenty of time to even it out. If you lay it on thick it will flow out alittle. It's also very easy to sand. If your going to do a large area use 80 on a long board to cut it in, then finish with 180. Then go over with 320. The best way to not have scratchs is not to leave any. The finer you sand your last coat the less chance you will have off your prime sinking.
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