I have a little too much slack in the steering on my 65. I had the steering box serviced and it has only a few hundred miles since then. It has been this way since I got it back and I didn't pay it much attention but a friend suggested I might want to turn the adjustment screw a quarter of a turn or so to tighten things up. Rag joint is fine. The slack appears in the box. I understand this can be tricky if not done correctly. Any suggestions appreciated?

 

Be careful as the box can be overtightened. I would have a person that knows how do it.

 

Define "serviced" - what did they do? Rebuild it, lube it, or???

 

Make sure your steering box is exactly centered with the wheels turned straight ahead. The box is designed so that it has the least play when the box is centered. Anything off center has more backlash. Adjustment has to be made with the tie rod sleeves. Lengthen one side and shorten the other side by the exact same number of turns.

 

The box was leaking so I sent it to Corvette Steering Service in South Carolina to have that repaired and the rest gone through.
I don't think I will try this adjustment on my own. Anyone in the north east Texas area that you all might know?

 

I could help ya with contacts in the Houston area, but I don't know anyone up your way.

The adjustment really isn't that hard. In principle you can damage the gear by setting the lash too tight, but you'd notice the wheel is too hard to turn long before you did any damage. I've done the lash adjustment on a few different cars, this 'vette included. Wheels centered, straight ahead is the correct place to make the adjustment.

There are actually two adjustments to the box. One is the bearing preload. That one is nigh impossible to do correctly unless you have the sector and pitman shaft pulled out of the box, so don't worry about it. Assuming you don't have a preload issue and you want to just do a lash adjustment, loosen the locknut on the adjuster screw in the box cover a couple of turns. Be sure not to let the adjuster screw turn with the locknut (hold it with a screwdriver). Turn the adjuster screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time, and turn the steering wheel back and forth. If the wheel turns and you get no response in the front wheels for any appreciable steering wheel rotation, turn the adjuster screw clockwise another 1/4 turn. Repeat this until the lash is gone. Don't turn it past the point where you start to feel friction when you turn the steering wheel.

The adjustment works because the teeth on the sector (the gear looking thing that meshes with the ball nut teeth are tapered. The adjuster screw pulls the sector upward toward the cover, causing the thicker part of the teeth to contact the ball nut. That reduces the lash between the ball nut and the sector. If the teeth get too close, they bind, which is why you feel turning friction in the steering wheel.

Hope this helps and good luck with the lash problem.

 

John
It has been 7 years since I had the work done. I'm thinking they checked everything out when they replaced the leaking seal. I probably haven't driven the car 3K since.

 

Thanks
I will give it a try.

 

at 3k miles the preload and lash should be ok. Tom at Corvette steering knows his stuff so I'm sure you have a good box.

If you contact me I'll go over what you can do before you dive into it.

 

Do you have manual steering? If so check out the Relay Rod Assembly. I adjusted my steering box also and still had slack in the steering. The Relay Rod assembly was my source of slack. You can buy a rebuild kit for about $50, It took me about 2 hrs to do. If you do not want to rebuild it, there is a pin to pull out and you can turn the end cap with a really big strew driver or find a Drag link socket (It will make the job a lot easier) and tighten until the internal spring compresses and back of about 3/4 turn to line up the pin to lock in position.

 

Good point the center link ball stud in manual cars is often overlooked and the ball end wears a lot. New ball stid, cups, springs and boot should solve that. I think Paragon has the kit listed.

 

Thanks for all the input. I have time today to look things over.

 

What about power steering cars??
Is there an adjustment for the link there too??

 

Nope - power steering cars use a different relay rod; that connection between the pitman arm and the relay rod is through the power steering control valve.

 

Don't mean to hi jack post but thought others might havs same problem

John,

Is power steering control valve adjustable??
Seems like I have alot of play here
Or
Does that mean it needs to be replaced?

No leaks

Thanks
Tony

 

You might give Corvette Corner a call at:

(972) 412-2325
3206 Main St Ste 101
Rowlett, TX 75088

dave Z

 

If the engine isn't running, you'll see some play in the control valve; it doesn't "go solid" unless it sees hydraulic pressure.