Planning to pull the original 327 from my car this week to make room for the big block. What are some recommendations for storing an engine? Drain the oil? Remove the spark plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders? Anything else? It and the transmission will be stored in a climate-controlled environment (on my newly-acquired Moto-feet). Just want to make sure that when I'm ready to "downsize" and put the original engine back in, it's in as good condition as when I removed it. Any and all suggestions welcomed.

As always, thanks in advance for your help,
Rex

 

Same question I was going to ask. I just picked up a rebuilt, with 100 miles on it, 327 with roller rocker setup. It may sit for a long time in my unheated (Minnesota) garage. Should I back off the nuts on the rockers at all? Drain break in oil out of motor and refill or leave dry, ect.
Thanks
Craig

 

Craig:

Here's what I found after one winter in my unheated attached Michigan garage: Lots of water in the oil; there was a steady stream of water before oil when I pulled the drain plug. I pulled the intake manifold and found rivers of rust in the ports and puddles of rust on the intake valves.

Here's what I would do in your case: Pull the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders. While you're spinning the motor (no plugs!) to spread that oil around, spray 3-in-1 mist oil down the manifold (carb off) to lube the valves and ports. Install plugs loosely. Repeat every year.

I don't do any of this stuff in my now heated garage. No water in oil...

I think I'd try to fill the water jackets with coolant.

Bill

 

Could someone elaborate on "fogging" an engine prior to storage? It was mentioned in another thread regarding "priming the oil system".

Thanks,
Rex

 

We boat owners in the Northern Climates "Fog" our engines prior to winter lay up. The engine needs to be at operating Temp. to start process. I use Marvel Mystery Oil, Marine stores sell Fogging Oil at a premium price. You slowly pour MMO into the Carb. until smoke billows out exhaust. At this time you can either shut engine off or pour MMO at a faster rate until engine stalls. This coats all the internals of the Combustion System with Oil. Also, for long term storage you can fill the entire Crankcase up with oil. (A couple of quarts over capacity is just as good!). You can use Kerosene on the Cooling System if desired. Tape over open Ports and Carb. Mounting Flange. Al W.

 

Long term in climate controlled environment, I would probably loosen up the valve train for the valve springs sake. Lay a blanket over it and maybe hand crank it once a year while spraying oil into the cylinders.

Unheated in Minnesota? I guess condensation is the problem there. I'd say bag it air tight on a day with low humidity, like the middle of winter, then do the above.

In both cases I'd fill it with oil so that when I cranked it over, it would pump oil.

It's the moisture condensing on the engine that is the enemy.


Gerry

 

I'd do the following:

get engine up to operating temp, then drain the oil and refill with fresh, oil filter too. Start the engine back up only long enough to get oil pressure, then fog the engine til it dies. Pull it out, and pull the coolant jacket plugs....the 1/2 pipe plugs just above the oilpan rails, and drain all coolant out. Replace the plugs, and add some cooling system rust preventive (1can) to 1 gallon of fresh 100% pure coolant, no water. Plug all coolant holes (water pump, intake outlet) Fill the engine as much as possible. Back off valve springs, take out plugs, and coat the threads with anitsieze, reinstall...at this point it don't matter what condition they are in, just plug the hole. Then take off carb (it'll need rebuilding when you put in back in service for gaskets if nothing else) spray some penetration oil in the exhaust ports, just a light mist will do, then tape up all openings to the engine, or use block off plates made for this. You want to keep any oxygen from getting into the engine (where there is O2 there is moisture). Put it in a big plastic bag, throw in some desecant packets, and vacuum all the air out of it, or have it shrink wrapped. Even then, keep it in a heated garage all winter, and especially spring when the frost breaks. That moist air is what you want to avoid. Make sure your heat source doesn't create moisture as it burns. I use electric heat in my shop and bare steel doesnt' rust.

I'm sure others can add some more helpful steps to this, but this is what I have done.

Good luck on the BBC

 

I don't run Marvel Mystery Oil in my cars or truck but I do add it say 100 miles prior to an oild change as that stuff is great for cleaning them out. Didn't mean to hi-jack your thread just a heads up FYI.

 

rex..i would glean the info from these posts and if i may add...remove the valve covers and back off any rocker arm that is holding a valve open......stuck valves in a stored engine are a bummer...jmho

 

Thanks to everyone for their input!!! Many ideas I had not thought of...............that's EXACTLY why I posted here, to draw from others' experiences.

Your help is much appreciated, as always.
Thanks,
Rex