When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Your Ignition System when the Engine is starting is robbed of Voltage by the Starter Motor's huge appetite. Hence the engineers have the Distributor served by all the Voltage available via bypassing the Resistor. Known as the Primary Circuit. (This delivers somewhere between 12V-13.5V). Once your engine is running, the Ignition System needs less Voltage and also is benefited in longer service life by having the Resistor drop the Voltage to approx. 9.5V. Known as the Secondary Circuit. The Heat you feel is the Resister dissipating that unneeded Voltage. Al W.
Also might want to check your dwell. Higher dwell angle will increase the time the resistor is heating up (more dwell = more time the points are closed).
But there is a good reason the ballast resistor is wound on a ceramic base!
Your Ignition System when the Engine is starting is robbed of Voltage by the Starter Motor's huge appetite. Hence the engineers have the Distributor served by all the Voltage available via bypassing the Resistor. Known as the Primary Circuit. (This delivers somewhere between 12V-13.5V). Once your engine is running, the Ignition System needs less Voltage and also is benefited in longer service life by having the Resistor drop the Voltage to approx. 9.5V. Known as the Secondary Circuit. The Heat you feel is the Resister dissipating that unneeded Voltage. Al W.
Primary circuit is anything that triggers the spark, and it carries less than 15 volts. This would include the wire from the ignition switch to the resistor, the resistor bypass wire from the starter, and then to the coil, the primary windings in the coil,then to the distributor points and condenser then to ground.
The secondary circuit makes and carries the spark, and consists of the secondary portion of the coil, the coil and plug wires, the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plugs. It carries 10,000 to 50,000 volts, depending on the strength of the coil, but little current.
Last edited by landshark 454; May 20, 2009 at 12:12 AM.
My ballast resistor gets very hot (like burn your hand hot) on the '64 w/ 365 motor. I assume that this is not normal. What's up?
Thanks
Rand
That's why the ignition switch has an "accessory" position, which powers up everything EXCEPT the coil, so you can listen to the radio without frying the coil. If you're lucky enough to have the engine stop with the points open, it doesn't matter, as no current can flow through the resistor and coil windings to ground - but odds are against that occurring.
You don't need the resistor if you put in the pertronix igniter in place of the points.. Love it! Car starts right off every time and I don't need to worry about points.
You don't need the resistor if you put in the pertronix igniter in place of the points..
That's only true if you also use their new "Flamethrower" coil; if you use a stock-type coil, you still need the resistor in the coil feed circuit or you'll fry the coil.
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I installed one of the SE breakerless setups by Lectric Limited in my new ZL-1, using a stock tach drive distributor with a new GM B28 vac cannister. Initially, the engine would not fire with the ballast resistor connected, but did start just fine when it was bypassed. After reading all the comments, I am concerned about burning up the coil, which is the current BWD (Borg Warner I think) #E30P from O'Reiley's Auto parts.
Ceramic base, we don't need no stinkin ceramic base, used a old mouse trap with the workings taken off, screwed the res to the wood, screwed to firewall, good to go.
Love the smell of charring wood, only problem, they only last about a week. Think I go to a 1x2 next time Bill.
Last edited by Bill Irwin; May 21, 2009 at 10:39 PM.
Reason: spelling
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I installed one of the SE breakerless setups by Lectric Limited in my new ZL-1, using a stock tach drive distributor with a new GM B28 vac cannister. Initially, the engine would not fire with the ballast resistor connected, but did start just fine when it was bypassed. After reading all the comments, I am concerned about burning up the coil, which is the current BWD (Borg Warner I think) #E30P from O'Reiley's Auto parts.
Comments, suggestions always welcome.
Thanks,
Rex
One of the advertised benefits of the Breakerless SE conversion (for judging) is that there are no extra wires, and nothing else is disturbed, including the ballast resistor; have never heard of one that wouldn't work unless the resistor was bypassed. If you run a full 12 volts continuously to that coil, it will fry eventually.
These coils are driving me nuts. I bought my 66 427/390 3 years ago and it already had a pertronix igniter and stock coil in it. And there is no ballast resistor on the firewall. I checked this stock coil with my new multimeter, and I got the same readings as I did with a brand new NAPA , made in USA coil, and a brand new flame thrower I and II coil.
So I am a witness that my coil did fine for over 3 years with out a ballast resistor and with a pertronix igniter.
I am installing a flamethrower II coil in my car today , which has instructions saying it does not need a ballast resistor.
I will now find out if the car runs the same or better with the new coil.
Update on my coil.. Yesterday my 3 year old stock coil ( probably a lot older but I have only had the car 3 years) , with no ballast resistor and does have the pertronix igniter, tested out better on a multimeter than a brand new flamethrower II from Corvette Central.
So Dan Martin, Corvette guru down here at Hill Country Vettes, decided to leave the stock coil in the car since the car is running fine the way it is...
I showed Dan the article from Corvette Fever magazine on coil testing, and Dan thinks the author got his ohms and volts mixed up, because something is not right about the testing method stated in the article..