What does this even mean? Higher resistance, lower resistance, wasn't totally shorted out, wasn't open, ???

Different coils will have different resistance values but that does not mean that one is necessarily better than the other. There are other factors of each design that must also be taken into consideration.

 

I ran my Pertronix II with the ballast resistor and stock coil for a year or more. Decided I wanted full voltage to the Pertronix unit so got a Flamethrower II and bypassed the ballast. Both of these situations worked just fine. I want a Pertronix III with the rev limiter but the company way understimated the demand...prob not avialable to non-dealers for months..

 

So that's why mine wouldn't fire when I used the ballast connector correctly, with full MSD. Hooked it direct and vaboom..!!

 

Per John Z in an earlier post....................

"One of the advertised benefits of the Breakerless SE conversion (for judging) is that there are no extra wires, and nothing else is disturbed, including the ballast resistor; have never heard of one that wouldn't work unless the resistor was bypassed. If you run a full 12 volts continuously to that coil, it will fry eventually."

I had the same problem with the SE Breakerless ignition and a new Borg Warner coil. Not sure what's going on here.................

 

Me neither but it's been that way for 2-3K iles and no worries?????

 

Well I just rechecked this and sure enough, if the ballast resistor is in the circuit, the engine WILL NOT fire. Bypass the resistor and it starts immediately. The only other variable to the equation (in addition to the SE breakerless ignition from Lectric Limited) is the starter, a Powermaster hi torque mini starter (#9502), which has only 2 terminals, battery and ignition. Coil is a new Borg Warner E30P, and there was a note with the coil stating it does require a ballast resistor.

John Z, or anyone, what's going on here? Any explanation for this? Do I need to change coils or ?????? or??????????? or??????????????

Here is what Lectric Limited says on their website:

The Breakerless-SE was designed for classic restoration cars. Consequently, the Breakerless-SE is compatible with all original/stock GM Delco Remy coils when used in conjunction with the factory installed ballast resistor. These original-type coils are high-inductance and have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms.
Most aftermarket or "hi-performance" coils are compatible as well, as long as their primary resistance is within the range of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms. The Breakerless-SE will perform at its best when using a coil with a primary resistance of 1.3 ohms.

How can you tell what the primary resistance of your coil is? You can get this information from the coil's box, contact the manufacturer, or use a quality ohmmeter on the coil. To use an ohmmeter, first zero-out your meter. Then put your meter across the + and - posts of the coil.

Be sure to follow the coil manufacturers installation instructions carefully, or contact them whenever installing a non-stock coil. Before you buy a new coil, you will want to contact the manufacturer for compatibility issues.

NOTE: The Breakerless-SE is designed
to be used with a stock/original type
distributor & coil. It will not fit or work
with aftermarket distributors (i.e. Accel,
Mallory, MSD, etc.) and will not work with
any MSD Blaster coils. DO NOT use the
Breakerless-SE with any "MSD Blaster"
coils or coils with low primary resistance.
The primary resistance on these coils is
too low (about 0.5 ohm) and will ruin the
Breakerless-SE module and void your
warranty!!!

What types of performance coils can be used with the BREAKERLESS-SE? Any high-inductance coil with a primary
resistance of 1.2 to 1.8 ohms. Most
"stock" or original replacement coils
are of this type. (see above)

Can I use an aftermarket CD ignition box with the BREAKERLESS-SE? The Breakerless-SE will not work for triggering aftermarket CD ignition boxes such as the MSD 6AL, Crane HI-6, etc. Connection to the ignition coil is required for proper operation.
Can I use a Rev Limiter?



Most popular aftermarket RPM limiters will work with the Breakerless-SE. However, it is advisable to check with the limiter's manufacturer, since third party products cannot be guaranteed by us.
Will I need to change my spark plugs to a different heat range? The factory recommended spark plugs should be used.
Will I need to change my spark plug wires? You can use your original-type spark plug wires or hi-performance wires, which ever you choose.
Will I need to change the gap of my spark plugs? Plug gaps should be set to factory specifications. Increasing the plug gap will provide negligible performance gains, but will increase the demand on the ignition coil.
What is the maximum operating RPM? Maximum operating RPM is in the range of 7,000 to 8,000 RPM with the stock coil. Condition of the coil, as well as secondary ignition components (i.e. spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires) and the battery voltage will ultimately determine the maximum RPM. The Breakerless-SE is capable of firing at well over 10,000 RPM.
Should I remove the condenser in the distributor when installing the BREAKERLESS-SE ? Yes. It is no longer needed.
My ignition coil has a condenser attached to it. Should I leave it installed? Yes. This is a noise filter for the radio and should remain connected to the coil's positive (+) terminal.


Thanks in advance for your help.

Rex

 

The unaccounted-for variable is the Powermaster 2-terminal starter. The stock Delco starter has an "R" terminal, which feeds a full 12 volts directly to the coil (+) terminal when cranking (bypassing the resistor temporarily until the key is released back to the "run" position). Without that bypass connection to the existing bypass wire in the harness, you don't have a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking. That's what I see based on your description and symptoms; sounds like the Breakerless SE wants to see 12 volts at the coil (the only thing it's connected to) while cranking, and it isn't getting it.

 

Thanks John. Should I connect the wire (that would normally be connected to the "R" terminal, but is now connected to nothing) to the ballast resistor and put it back in the circuit? Or, other suggestions?

Thanks,
Rex

 

You'll have to talk to someone who has one of those 2-terminal starters and semi-stock ignition; I don't know how they wire them up without a bypass terminal.